Black Magic

iTrader: (2)

Like the topic says...
i have a 93 touring with a garret single turbo,rebuilt engine, 3mm seals,3in all the way out, street port. soon to have a FMIC, apexi PFC, WB, Fluidyne rad, and other goodies.
i want it to run as cool as possible. The single oil cooler in my mind isnt adaquate enough for me. I want to run duals. (after market duals, not stocks off a R1) my question is:
How should i run the plumbing? Should i run the coolers in series?--this will allow for the oil to be cooler than just one cooler becuase it would pass through one and then the other before entering the engine.
---OR----
Should i run the coolers in paralell? With this setup the only advantage ill get, is that there will be a larger quantity of cooler oil going back into the engine. which is basically doing the same damn thing as the single cooler becuase its still going to enter the engine at the same speed as the stock single.
Obviously the series dual oil cooler route would be best because the oil will be at a lower temp than the other method. Is there any problems with doing this? will there be some oil pressure drop and cause me problems?
--thanks to all that help me out!
-james

maxcooper

The CWR setup runs them in series. I am not sure about the stock R1 setup since the thermostat is inside the cooler on the single-cooler cars. My Workshop manual doesn't show the two-cooler setup, so I can't see how it is plumbed. Perhaps someone with an R-model can comment on how it is plumbed.

Pressure drop doesn't seem to be a problem. Now that I have a good pressure gauge, it is clear that the pressure on my engine is quite healthy with the CWR setup installed. The sensor is after the coolers, so if they were restricting the flow, the gauge would show low pressure.

-Max

LOSTinWANKELS

why not just run one big cooler? theres like a 32 row kit...im sure u dont need anythin more than that..its like a radiator

jdhuegel1

That sounds like a plan...

On a side note... I see fairly inexpensive coolers at places like Summit... How do they compare to out stock units? I mean... You can get one for real cheap there!

Dougie_fresh_007

ya.. summit imho is the way to go... custom fab... take a tid bit of time and save hundreds.... u can do a badass setup for like ooh say 300 bucks... plus lines

maxcooper

It's mostly the lines and other stuff that is expensive. Even high quality Mocal and Setrab coolers are only $135-ish each in the stock-ish size.

-Max

LetsGO7

iTrader: (2)

I got 20ft. of -10 lines adaptors and all the fittings , cost me around 400.

rynberg

I've seen research (can't remember where) that the stock oil cooler is actually very good and can't be beat at it's size.

The problem with adding a single really large cooler is it won't get enough air to be effective, especially with the stock bumper. I think adding a second stock cooler is probably adequate for almost any car in any situation. Racers with much more power than stock that road race in very high temps are probably the only ones who need to upgrade past the R1/R2 set-up (like Max!).

ArcWelder

The difficulty with one big cooler is getting enough air flow through it so you can take advantage of the larger area. It's much easier with two coolers, especially with the stock nose. It just like with the radiator, bigger is better up to a certain point, but you have to get the air through it for cooling.

Mark

apexkw

if it was me i would get www.rotaryextreme.com 's dual oil cooler kit. it looks badass!!!!!!!!! it comes with everything you need to make the conversion. twin 25row coolers. or even twin 34row coolers. also chuck is an awesome guy to deal with. i would higly recommend him to anyone.

DamonB

The stock R-1 oil coolers are in series. I have a base model and added the second R-1 cooler so I am now an expert on stock oil cooler plumbing To add the second cooler you'll need the passenger side cooler (with brackets and duct), the pair of hard lines that run between the coolers and the oil line off the front cover of the engine. All the mounting points already exist, you just need the parts. The hard line from the oil filter area is the same on both so it's not needed. Stock dual cooler setup has oil coming from oil filter stand, into driver side cooler (thermostat built in), across to passenger side cooler and then returning to motor in the front cover.

If you are going to have two oil coolers you want them in series. Like others have said the coolers themselves are not expensive. What costs money is the thermostat and all the lines and fittings. The stockers have the thermostat built in, but you'll have to plumb an aftermarket one if you ditch the stockers.

Another oil cooler thread

Little 7

HKS and Greddy have dual oil cooler kits for FD, but you need to order from Japan directly. The US catalog does not carry it. Both are approx. $1200. Earl's and Mocal are little bit cheaper but they do have 24 rows. I am thinking to get the dual oil cooler kits beside just buy a used R1 oil cooler coz it hard to find and the price is not cheap. Hope it may help for references.

tgriesel

You can see pics of the rotary extreme kit install on my car of the twin 25 row oil coolers with all the fittings . (the first four pictures and the last one). $1200 with all top of the line components. Highly recommended. Tom
www.rotaryextreme.com/tom

DamonB

tgriesel -Ziptied to the moving sway bar??? Surely this pic is of an initial "dress up"??? I highly suggest using a bunch of adel clamps bolted to unmoving chassis points to dress all of those hoses. SS braided hose laying like that is going to give you a world of hurt at the most inopportune time! It should not be allowed to rub eachother or any metal parts! (Soft parts are ok, it will chew right through them ) I also highly recommend making a bracket to locate the thermostat, do not use the hoses themselves to locate it!

Sorry if I am jumping the gun and this was just a trial fit, but please do not drive the car that way.

tgriesel

Damon: That's OK. Alot of those pics are the initial fitting. I just wanted everyone to be able to see the components. Tom

MakoDHardie

tgriesel....that's an engine bay. Nice pictures!

rynberg

God, that V-mount set-up is just beautiful! Some day.

vudoodoodoo

I would run bigger oil cooler.
I should save the duct on the passenger side to route some cool air for the intake.

vudoodoodoo

I say that too.

Black Magic

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for everyones replies on my topic, my descision is made!
---That V-mount is pretty damn sweet, but does it work as good as it looks? In theory the air when it enters that system should split 50/50 between the radiator and intercooler. Does it really work that well? anyone have testimonies/proof? The air hits it at a shallow angle and therefor i dont think it flows very well because the air isnt going straght through like a upright radiator or FMIC. I imagine with a vented hood and maybe a fan on the IC would make a world of difference. Could/should a fan be used on either the IC or radiator with the V-mount setup? I dont have an aftermarket IC or radiator yet, so i want all the details/help/advice on this V-mount setup.
---i checked out Rotary Extreme's site. the dual coolers and V-mount look like something i shall be purchasing shortly. very clean, functional, well thought out, and sexy looking. Everyones suggetions/info is helpful!
-james

tgriesel

vudoodoodoo: If you go v-mount and use the RE airbox you won't need any extra ducts. The box gets air from the whole passenger side of the V. You can see it in picture #69. The fuse box you see has now been mounted up out of the way. It gives you open intakes to the nose of the car but is shielded from the engine bay heat. All the cold air you need. Tom

rynberg

trgriesel: Thanks for posting all the pics, they're great.

BTW, you should come to one of the Bay Area get-togethers. I'm sure quite a few of us would love to see your V-mount set-up in person.

tgriesel

rynberg: Thanks. Let me know the next time something is happening and I'll do my best to make it. If you want to see the car just send me an email and we can meet somewhere. I live just over the Richmond bridge. If it's nice on Sunday I'm going to go up to Infineon for superbikes and the extreme autofest. Tom

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

Hey, a little off the original topic, but how the heck does that V-mount radiator work?

Both coolant hoses appear to exit out of the same side of the rad. from two unconnected endtanks, the there seems to be a pipe coming out of the bottom leading who knows where, and to top it off, the drain hole is on the topsite of the lower endtank?!

tgriesel

ptrhahn: I will try to explain. This is a modified Koyo 2" radiator. There are no hoses coming out of the bottom (photo's #52, 56). That bulge is where the old pipe came out, now cut and plugged and the drain plug is on the bottom/back side of it. The water goes in one side of the top, down thru that half, around and back up and out. There is a "V" welded in the top between the inlet and outlet to properly direct the flow (photo's #10, 11, 20). Tom