94 R2

iTrader: (2)

Any tips on removing the glass itself from the housing if it's even removable at all? Decided to have it resprayed and I'd rather remove it than the body shop.

Thanks!

mdp

Use a heat gun (hair dryer), plastic trimtools, and slowly pry the glass out. DO NOT force it out, be patient. Here is what it looks like under the mirror:


The white stuff is uncured butyl rubber, it is very sticky and gooey, even after 24 years. If you need more uncured butyl rubber when reattaching the mirror this is the right stuff:

Don't be lazy or a cheapskate and use house chalk, or construction adhesive. Stick to what the Mazda engineers selected, it will help the next guy who has to remove a mirror.

mdp

If you intend on delivering the mirrors to the painter completely disassembled you're going to run in to a problem, you need to feed the motor power cable from the bottom of the mirror base through the mirror and out the large mirror case opening. The only problem is the hole in the black metal base that attaches the mirror to the body is too small to fit the white plug on the end of the cable and the black metal base is too large to fit through the mirror body. Do not just cut the cable or un-solder the wires attached to the mirror motors! You can remove the pins in the connector to get everything out. Use a small jewelers screwdriver to push down the tab and pull the wire out from the back of the connector.






Then feed the cable through the black metal bracket and out the mirror case.

94 R2

iTrader: (2)

Very helpful. Thank you!

mdp

Well, I might as well post up the rest of my photos on removing the mirrors. So, here goes....

First remove the door panels. There is a very good thread out there on how to do this with lots of pictures but I can't find it just now. Basically remove the screws (don't forget the hidden one behind the window switch on the passenger side). Pop all the clips by pulling the panel towards you just enough to pop the clips, once all the clips are released, lift up on the panel!!! There are two locating pins on top of the panel, 95% of the boneheads (and you know who your are) removing the inner door panel break those pins, don't be one of them. Once the panel is off disconnect the mirror motor plug:


Next rotate the mirror 90 degrees to expose the screws:



These screws have a locktite like substance on them. At a minimum use a JIS screw driver, best is a impact driver with a JIS bit attached:


You're not done yet you have one more screw once the first two are removed, watch out!



Well, as they say "the best-laid plans of mice and men...."


So, into the machine shop to make a brass threaded drill guide (Yes, I know you don't have a machine shop, but now is an excellent time to start planing!)




Perfectly centered without a scratch on the threads!


And finally to clean any metal shavings out of the threads...


And now take a look at my previous posts on disassembling the mirrors.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Nice! I never considered fully disassembling the mirrors for doing paint work, that is really the way to do it!

Thanks!

Dale

IMAGINETHAT

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to bring this back from the dead. It has been very helpful so far.

Passenger side door trim removal: how to I access the hidden screw without damaging the door trim?

It seems like just breathing on these components leaves scuff marks.

Any hints or tips would be appreciated.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Put a few layers of masking tape where you're going to pry against. Stick a small flat blade electronics/mini screwdriver in between the window switch and trim. Pry the switch out.

FWIW I painted my mirrors on the car with automotivetouchup.com base and clear.

Warm weather is the best time to work on interior. If you must do it when cold, I preheat the plastics with a space heater or hair dryer.