I was just wondering what kind of power I would be looking at if I opted for a remanufactured engine, because I am seriously thinking about it.
Here's a lil info bout my car: 93, 104kmiles, compression constant all around at about 5!!!, pettit ecu and cold air induction, RB exhaust, custom dp, im runnin on the stock engine and turbos.
Last time I dynoed it, a couple months ago, i was running 265rwhp and 227lb-ft.
So, what do you guys think. Obviously, I wanna bring the compression back up to 9 but what kind of power gains you think I'll get

-Tim

 

oh yeah I forgot to mention I use the car as a daily driver. Sooo, will having a reman engine give me lots of trouble if driven alot??

 

I just installed a street ported motor (used) in my car. I cannot compare it to original since I bought the car with a blown motor. It is streetable and if done properly will be reliable. Best source would be KDR. There is another rebuilder in Atlanta also, but not sure of who it is.

Tim

 

ok, cool, thanks for the info Tim, I'll try to check out that atlanta dealer...I think it might be Mazcare

 

remans are just as reliable as a rebuild if not better. ernie t was using one with a stage 3? triple k turbocharger without any reliablity problems. a least none that he has mentioned

 

But what kind of power gains can I look for, seeing that my compression is waaaay down. I mean is there a "conversion" that will tell me and estimate on how much the compression actually helps (or hurts in my case) the power output?

 

How much boost are you running? Power seams real low. If the motor just has low compression and money is an issue, you can just drive it around for a while. A reman will run a bit over 2k. They are pretty good quality, and often come with alot of new parts. The rotor housings are always new now as well as new gaskets and seals. A cheaper alternative, since the motor is not blown, would be to take it apart and rebuild it with new gaskets or seals. You could port the motor while your at it too.

 

Yeah I was thinkin about definitely getting a street port done when I rebuild it, or whatever I do. Yeah I figure I'll drive until it goes out. So, would changing the gaskets and seals, bring my compression back up, and at that point the car still has a lotta miles on it, so wouldn't it be better (if I had the money) to get a rebuild to make sure everything else lasts as well?
I''m gettin pretty good boost, 12.5 at my peak. Also, gotta nother question, recently when I start the car up its been revving up to ~3krpm for about 15 seconds, then going back down to regular idle, ~1100 when I first start the car. I mean my old accord use to do that, and I figured it was just warming up..is that what the RX is doing or should I look into this futher? I mean it had started to get cooler in nashville, but like 60 deg, so?
Thanks for the replies by the way.

 

yeah that normal, if you don't want it to do that, step on the gas, or shift into first and the rpms should go down.

 

Have you had a compression test done or are you just assuming you have low compression because of high mileage?

If you break an apex seal, you can cause damage to your core that will cost extra during a rebuild. However, you always have the option to get the reman and then have the reman ported if you really want porting. They will still have to tear down the reman to port it.

EDIT: I see you said you have 5's all around. IMO, I would go ahead and get a reman or get it rebuilt.

That is the AWS (Accelerated Warm-up System). As already noted, you can blip the throttle or just start the car in gear to avoid it. There are theories on both sides of the fence whether or not the AWS is good for the engine or not however no hard facts proving either side. If you don't like it (like me), just make sure the car is in gear when you crank it up.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/search...der=descending

Remans are a crap shoot. Some good, some BAD. I know that many, if not ALL of the Rotary shops in Northern CA will NOT install remans in their customer's cars. Way too many problems. I know this because I called and every shop in the Bay Area when I was doing my research before I got a rebuilt motor.

 

Yeah Mahjik, when I first bought the car I took it to Mazcare in Atlanta and did the routine vacuum line changes and made sure all the recalls were taken car of and they also checked my compression and told me it was at about 5 all around.
*Note: I think in the last post I said I got it checked a couple of months ago. That's incorrect I got it checked about a year ago (when I first got the car) and have put about 5000 miles on it since*

Okay thanks again guys, I geuss it's just up to me to decide whether to rebuild or get a reman. I think I'll take care of this engine (and turbos) for as long as I can, and then when it goes bad I'll make the decision. Cuz I'm using it as a daily driver (to drive back and forth to school, as well as the occassional trips home) and I am going to school, so I'd rather not invest my time and money in a project like that where a lot of tuning is involved to get your peak performance. If I'm gonna get into med school I'm gonna have to study like a champ this year!

 

actually money is not so much an issue. I have saved up (or will have in not too long) about $4500 to spend on the car. So, when I do spend it I was thinking about getting the reman or rebuild (including paying my mech. to install it for me) and then getting a med. IC from M2. That there has to be around 4500. And I think the car would be pretty good at that stage: RB exhaust, dp, cold air intake, reman ( or rebuilt) engine, pettit ecu, and med IC. I would hope to see somewhere around 300rwhp at that stage, right?? Cuz I'm pushin 265whp with an engine with compr. at 5 and no IC.

 

I'd drive your car until you can't drive it anymore. Get every last mile out of that motor. Then I would find a reputable rotary engine builder local to you to do the whole job of rebuilding. and reinstalling the rebuilt motor. That way if there is something wrong with car down the road you can hold them responsible. *If you get a Mazda Reman that hgappens to be bad, sure Mazda will replace it under warranty, but YOU will have to pay ANOTHER $1400-1800 to R&R the motors... This has happend to guys on this forum before. And it has happened to motors from ALL engine builders.

Also, you will need more than $4500 bucks. That will just cover the motor and R&R. It won't cover the misc. hoses and gaskets, fuel pulsation dampener, clutch, SMIC etc.~ You know, the stuff that you 'should' change while changing out the motor...That stuff including the SMIC could run you another $2000. If you get a ported motor add another $2000 for larger secondaries and a Power FC to run them...

Just my .02

 

hmmm, gives me some more to think about. Well for starters driving the car till it collapses will allow me to save a little more money because as I now know for what I want to do, I'm gonna need about twice that 4500. Dammit! Oh well,I mean when I do all that work, I want it to be done well so I won't have trailing troubles afterwards, so I agree with you on everything, specially the rebuiding part. I know of 2 or 3 pretty good rotary specialists in ATL, so I'll check them out and see which one I think can do the most reliable job. Also, I really do want a SMIC on the car for various reasons, if anything to keep the motor runnin longer, but I'm still not sure about the porting. Cuz its like if I do eventually want to have the engine ported, the best time would obviously be when I rebuilt it, BUT I would kinda like to see how the car performs with the compression back up and everything else in higher quality, ya know. Oh well, thanks for the help, keep the replies comin. : )