Its official, after 84k miles,my engine has eaten an apex seal. Idles high and sparadic, shakes the whole car, boost is sparadic, almost no power, exhaust sounds strange, flowing blue smoke out the back at WOT.
So the question is ... where can I get a rebuilt engine, and what prices am I looking at. Right now I'm thinking about rotaryresurrection. Anybody have any problems with them?

On a side note, while the engine is out, I'm planning on having the turbos rebuilt as well. Who does turbo rebuilds, and how much do they run?

Thanks for any help guys.
Marc

 

Sorry to hear that.


for ***** and giggles check your map sensor

 

this is going to sound stupid, but whats an easy way of checking it?

 

Well electrically I wouldn't know how to check it, but check the vacuum line running to it , it might possibly be totally off, partially on, chaffed, leaking ect.


Without the map sensor connected it causes most of the problems you described.


Hopefully someone will chime in with how to OHM the sensor out and what readings to look for .

 

Where is it located, what does it look like?

 

It located on the drivers side, under the hood, on the firewall, its a little black box, and it has a vacuum line running to it

 

Ok, the Boost Sensor is the only thing I could find. Has a plug in one side and a vacume line attached underside. Engine does start, two slow cranks then it'll start up and idle fairly happilly at 800rpm. But still no power. Engine is shaking pretty bad under acceleration. Still blowing out smoke under throttle. Though not as much. It almost seems like it wants to go. Just no power. Exhaust still sounds weird, and I swear I almost hear a tapping like noise at idle. Not sure what else it could be other than an apex seal.

I'm thinking the reason it cranks slow once or twice, is that its building compression on one face, then finally cranking up. Its aggrivating, because it seems so healthy. Most engines I've ever worked on that blew up, wouldn't idle at all. Then again, while its cold the tolerances are much closer, would could be why it seems so normal.

Thanks for the idea, but that doesn't seem to be it.
Any others?
And my two original questions, engine builders/turbo rebuilds, any help there?

 

Hmmmm well maybe one of your motor mounts broke, hence the car shaking, do you have a boost gauge?


Is your car making no power with boost , or no boost at all

 

Do have a boost guage. It seems to be boosting normally. I was actually recently driven off the road into a ditch. But there was no actual impact. Even if the motor mount is dead, that doesn't explain the total lack of power.

 

Ok, So You Said That There Was A Vacume Line To One Side Of Your Boost Sensor And A Plug On The Other. Follow The Vacume Line From The Sensor Back To The Rear Of The Manifold, Is It Plugged In? Or Just Hanging There.

Btw - Its Not A Boost Sensor, Its A Fuel Pressure Sensor ( Fpr)

 

the map sensor is actually labeled boost sensor. mine is anyways.
Before you scrap your engine a compression test is in order. Easiest way to tell.
If the compressions alright then you look for alternate causes for your problem.

 

Then why did Denso put a sticker on it that says "Sensor Boost"?

 

so wheres the fuel pressure sensor then?

 

Actually, I don't beleive there is a fuel pressure sensor. There is a fuel pressure regulator located at the end of the secondary fuel rail.

 

I'm pretty sure that its in no way connected to the fuel pressure. Because in order for it to be measuring the fuel pressure it would have to be connected to the fuel rail. Which it is not.
On the other hand, I'm going to limp her over to the auto hobby shop here in about 15 minutes, look for the other end of that hose, and do a compression test. Also just look around in there for anything else that might be obviously wrong.

 

Good engine rebuilders can depend heavily on your location.

 

Turbo Rebuilds
BNR Supercars - www.bnrsupercars.com - ?
Pettit Racing - www.pettitracing.com - $1995
TurboCity - www.turbocity.com - $300 for kits to do it yourself
Majestic Turbo - www.majesticturbo.com - ?

Engine Builders
Pettit Racing - www.pettitracing.com
Gotham Racing - www.gothamracing.com
KD Rotary - www.kdrotary.com
MazdaTrix - www.mazdatrix.com/engnum3.htm
Rotary Response and Racing - www.rxforyour7.com/Rotary%20Engine.htm
J.R.'s Rotary Performance Shop Inc. - 973-904-1613
Rotary Resurrection - www.rotaryresurrection.com

That's a good list to start with.

 

Very good list Techno!

 

Thanks Zyon...many hours surfing to find them all. Figured I'd share it.

Really wish the moderators would sticky that.

 

How much vacuum are you pulling at idle on your boost gauge? Is the number your seeing steady, or does it fluctuate ever so slightly constantly?

 

whats the ever so slightly fluctuating vacuum indicative of?
because my car does this. Then again the idle isnt perfect either and probably dips ever so slightly. but please do tell.

 

It is closer to no vacum than it should be. And yes it fluctuates. It boosts really fast, almost like the turbo is trying to make up for the lack of power. But I'm not sure.

 

Marc,

Sorry to hear about your motor. Let me know if you need help in anyway. You can bring your car over and swap map sensors with me if you want. I'm getting ready to change out the engine in my car as well. I however bought used motor, tranny, turbos, everything with 36,000 on it (not JDM). I will be longer with mine because of money issues. I want to replace the radiator all hoses etc. Let me know what I can do.

Semper Fi

Terry7

 

Thanks for the offer. I got her down to the auto hobby shop yesterday. But haven't had a chance to actually do a compression test. Ended up pulling the motor on my supra and tearing apart a 300zx motor. I really don't think its the sensor, but I'll know for sure. I will keep you in mind though.
Oh yeah, How much did you spend on your used engine and where did you find it at? What are you doing with your old engine/turbos?

 

If you are seeing a slight constant fluctuation WITH a steady idle that doesn't oscillate as well. It's a possible indication of a chipped apex seal.

However, if your vacuum is just fluctuating with your idle that’s normal.