Im getting a rebuild soon, and was wondering if this particular set up will be okay.

mild street port
k&n drop in
downpipe
HKS Carbon Fiber Ti exhaust
PWR, Koyo, or Fluidyne radiator (suggestions welcome)
coolant jacket mod
cryogenesis for apex seals, rotors, and many other internal components.

I know thats a lotta flow for no fuel management, and thats the question that I had. Should I save up for the Power FC and get higher rated injectors, fuel pumps, fuel rail, etc etc? Or will some type of piggy back fuel computer work for the amt. of flow Im going to have? Or is this setup okay without fuel management? I doubt it is, and would rather play it on the safe side and get fuel management. My plans for later would keep me from spending money on some sort of temporary piggy back unit like an S-AFC or something, as I will need to go to a stand alone management system if Im going to go from stock seq. to single.

Plans for later is a single TO4E turbo, power FC, 1600cc secondaries, maybe 1000cc primaries, twin cosmo fuel pumps, HKS FMIC, all necessary intake and IC pipes, HKS twin power ignition, and some sort of exhaust setup. So with that setup, everything is okay, as long as I tune the Power FC correct? I might have left some things out, so add to my list if u think I might need other stuff.

Im essentially getting a rebuild, and trying to get a bit more performance, to hold me over until I go single, and in the process keep costs down as much as possible, being efficient in deciding which things to get. Of course, rebuilding and going single getting everything all at once will cost less in the long run, but I dont have that kind of cash to dump all at once.

 

well here we go. A lot of people on this forum have preferences toward a piggy back and others are totally against it. Personally I think if it works for your application and you aren't upgrading any more go for it. But in my opinion I don't think you can do as much with it. So my advice would be to go ahead and invest with a full management, not a piggy back. Just my opinion.

- Steiner

 

If your plans are to go single not too far off, skip all the hassle of buying and tuning a piggyback if your just going to need an EMS in the future anyways. Skip all the BS and buy the Power FC.

My 2 cents...

 

get the power FC...

 

Im rebuilding right now too. A fuel management system is definately being thrown into the mix. I have heard great things about the PowerFC, but it doesn't fit in my budget. I think I am going to bite the bullet and go with a Greddy e-manage. It has tons of cool features(comparable to PowerFC) and its only $300. It has not however proven itself on an RX-7. I will be posting my experiences with it when the car is back together. Don't hold your breath, it will be awhile. DAMMIT! I need to rob a bank or something. BTW, you shouldn't need to buy a fuel rail. Stock one is supposedly sufficient.

 

If you are going to skip the fuel management for now then get some kind of boost controller and keep the boost at 10psi or less, then you should be fine.

 

If you are going to skip the fuel management for now then get some kind of boost controller and keep the boost at 10psi or less, then you should be fine.

 

ok, that brings up another good point. Doing a free flow filter, DP and exhaust flows higher boost. Wont turning the boost back down to 10 psi with a boost controller counteract all these air flow mods? I mean, the concept sound correct to me, just because common sense says, if more air is going in, more fuel has to as well. The concept that I just can't quite fathom is how the newly added free flow mods would prove to help any if I just turn the boost right back down to stock levels. Would it spool faster maybe? Someone explain please.

Thx for the suggestions, and I was afraid most of you guys were gonna say Power FC. Not like I am against it, I think its amazing from what I've seen, its just that cash for it is a bit hard to "scrape together" when trying to afford a rebuild.
Gotta crawl before I can walk, and run before I can turbo....

 

This has come up before many times and you can think of it like this: a balloon will probably read 10psi on your boost gauge. Your tires will read 30 something psi. Boost pressure alone does not equate to power, flow does. Now, all else being equal, higher boost pressure with the same volumetric flowrate results in denser air, that gives you more power. However, you can increase mass flowrate (mass flowrate=power, pure and simple) without increasing pressure by doing a couple of things: 1. Cooler air (denser) 2. Better exhaust/intake gas velocity. Freeing up the intake and exhaust does both of those. First, better exhaust reduces backpressure, this improves exhaust velocity out of the engine and thus a smaller portion of the exhaust needs to route into the turbos to spin them effectively. The result is less heat being transferred into the intake side, less stress on the turbines themselves, and also better exhaust scavenging out of the motor. A free flowing intake reduces pumping losses. This lowers the resistance the compressor sees when trying to suck air through the intake, again this results in better intake velocity, lower intake temperatures, and thus more power even at the same boost levels. With this in mind "good power" is the kind you can achieve at low boost levels, engine life is basically inversely proportional to boost levels so if you can keep it low, do so.

 

>>Wont turning the boost back down to 10 psi with a boost controller counteract all these air flow mods

not really, because you have 'opened' the pipe of the car, before it was a straw, now its a big tube, 10lbs in a big tube is more air flow than 10 lbs in a straw, so you will get more power...fortunatly the stock ecu runs rich enough that you dont get into much trouble if you keep at stock boost levels and atay away from fuel cut.