has any one done the sequential simplification mod? alot of people were doing it,or going to do it.but i havent seen any reports on the final outcome.any driveability problems,code problems,or anything elsei should know about
same goes for the wide-band diy from aust. any info on that one? thanks

 

i know someone must have done this mod. seems like it's cheap and easy to do, while getting rid of alot of junk under the hood. also, after removing the air pump, what about problems with the waterpump while running stock diameter pulleys?

 

anybody?

 

?

 

the diy wb is more than accurate enough for 99% of our needs. they don't start getting inaccurate (by 0.1 a/f) until you get into either extremem end... i.e. very rich or very lean. i have the US version which i'm almost finished assembling and i will post results once i get it together and in the car.

sam

 

I've got two of the oz-wb and am quite pleased with them. I would rather have a four gas analyzer to help get my timing more spot on but I don't have $10K to squander on one.

As for comparison it's hard to say, it seems to agree with what Dave at KD logged on his dyno but then I am comparing in different conditions on the road.

Maybe the next time I take the DP out I'll put another bung in it so if I take it to KD again we can do side-by-side comparisons.

 

But the problem with that is safe for a turbo rotary running say 14psi of boost is very rich for all the other cars. I've heard its might not be that accurate for a rotary.

STEPHEN

 

That would be awsome, I've been hoping someone would do a side by side comparison.

On a side not you can get a extremely accurate Motec wideband with the good ngk sensor for $1200

STEPHEN

 

Motec used the same NTK L1H1 sensor as the oz-wb does.

They want $600 for the sensor, I paid $120 from NAPA.

From what I've experienced with the calibration procedures it should be accurate (at least withing the tolerances of the sensor).

 

stephen... actually very rich is like 8:1... lol. although i'm not sure what the rotaries like to fun at since i'm new to it... but i would think it's nowhere near this?

on the other side of the equation it's starts getting "inaccurate" (by 0.1 a/f) somewhere around 20:1.

so it should be fine with the rx7's.

btw... what do rx7's like anyway? say for 92 octane pump gas and a completely stock car. i'm guess it's pretty much the same as the piston type FI cars at approx 11:1?

thanks
sam

edit... oops... meant rich is like 8:1 not 20:1. lol

 

Dave at KDR likes to be safe ~11.1 under boost.

You can go higher if your wallet is not sensitive to it

< 11.1 = more gas $
>11.1 = more engines

 

thanks for the info!

 

I havent heard of that type of wideband, but i did get an FJO wideband from www.Horsepowerfreaks.com, they hooked me up good! Check them out! Talk to chris

 

I curretly have a best time or 12.27 @ 122MPH, my car was slow as hell before i got the TO4 on there! Where is the best place to buy parts, I need and AEM! I heard that www.horsepowerfreaks.com know a lot about the AEM and are very helpful! I just checked them out, they have lots of bad *** parts and some of the best prices around!