3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Old 09-14-05, 04:21 PM
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See if you guys can help

Ok I got my car back from clutch wizard. He put new motor mounts new clutch and flywheel on. Now the car is running very rough. Not idling right. Often stalls when i come to stop light. This morning i start her up and runs for about 5 seconds then dies and wont start again. It idle fine when i bring it to clutch wizard. Could they have messed somthing up when they put motor mounts on? Where is a good place to take it in bay area? Someone that has experience working on rotaries? Clutch wizard also said the catylitic converter was red hot. Oh ya and car is totally stock no mods. ALso I can shift into any gear without pressing on the clutch when the car is off. I shouldnt be able to do that right?

Last edited by joeyz87; 09-14-05 at 04:24 PM.
Old 09-14-05, 04:31 PM
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I don't know about the car running rough, but the red hot catylitic converter is the reason why your exhaust overheat light comes on. Time to look into a new cat, and probably a downpipe.

Also, its normal to be able to change gears without pressing the clutch and having the car off.
Old 09-14-05, 04:55 PM
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You should be able to shift into any gear without depressing the clutch when the car isnt running.
Have you checked your map sensor hose ?
Old 09-14-05, 05:30 PM
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where is map sensor hose?
Old 09-14-05, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by joeyz87
where is map sensor hose?
The map sensor in mounted on the firewall on the driver's side. It looks like a 1.5" rectangular box with a vacuum line coming out on the bottom of it.

If they knocked that line loose. Your car could be acting the way that you're describing... Or they could have beat on your car during an unauthorized test drive. I hope that thts isn't the case.
Old 09-14-05, 06:42 PM
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they said they had trouble getting the mottor mounts on, meaning they probably moved the engine around without disconnetcing anything. I will check ther map senor and take some pics so you guys can see if anythin glooks disconected.

Last edited by joeyz87; 09-14-05 at 06:50 PM.
Old 09-14-05, 11:56 PM
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ok heres pics of the drivers side firewall. Is it supposed to be like that.
Attached Thumbnails See if you guys can help-map.jpg   See if you guys can help-map2.jpg  

Last edited by joeyz87; 09-14-05 at 11:58 PM.
Old 09-15-05, 12:00 AM
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The hose coming out of it should connect to the intake manifold - it's hard to tell from the photo if it's going anywhere or if it's somehow been cut...
Old 09-15-05, 12:03 AM
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look closly aty second photo its more clear. The hose does look cut and i know it's going nowhere. Please tell me this is reason for my problems. here i post more pic wait. If you click on image ift should come up full size.
Attached Thumbnails See if you guys can help-map3.jpg  

Last edited by joeyz87; 09-15-05 at 12:08 AM.
Old 09-15-05, 12:07 AM
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That is certainly your problem. There should be a hose connected to that little box. Check between the firewall and the engine.
Old 09-15-05, 12:09 AM
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You mean check for the other half of the hose? They must have broken it when they installed the motor mounts.

Last edited by joeyz87; 09-15-05 at 12:11 AM.
Old 09-15-05, 12:10 AM
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well if the map sensor is disconnected you're definately gonna have major problems...

Basically that sensor has a little filter-thingy on it and then connects to the intake manifold not too far away, right where the throttle body is. Perhaps the line popped off an you'll find the other half of the hose and the filter hanging behind the throttle body there.


Last edited by sferrett; 09-15-05 at 12:15 AM.
Old 09-15-05, 12:14 AM
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what he said ^^^
Also get a small hose clamp to slip onto the connection with the little filter.
Old 09-15-05, 12:14 AM
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At first the car was running reallly rough idleing up and down stalling at stop lights. Then next morining i start it and it revs to 2000rpm for a few secondes then stall and wont start. It idle fine when i bring it to shop. and it runs like **** when i get it back/
Old 09-15-05, 12:16 AM
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The hose is clamped on to the little plastic box it just looks cut or broken.
Old 09-15-05, 12:18 AM
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omfg thanks for pic. I seee I see. Ok those bastards at clutch wizards are stupid. I fix right away and if any damage is done they pay for it.
Old 09-15-05, 12:20 AM
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no worries - it probably came off when they were moving the engine around since the sensor is attached to the firewall and that first hose is pretty short...
Old 09-15-05, 12:43 AM
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1. Once the MAP sensor is reconnected, you will have to reset the ecu. You can do this by disconnecting the neg battery cable and pressing the brake pedal for 30 seconds.

2. Next time, take the car to a good rotary shop in the Bay Area like we told you last time.

3. Get a fricking downpipe for the poor thing.

4. Your main cat may be toast now from your pre-cat clogging.

5. Stop using an FD to deliver pizzas!
Old 09-15-05, 03:43 AM
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Ok, you think it messed anything up having the sencer disconneted. They said the cat was red hot. SHould I have them replace cat scince they screw up.
Old 09-15-05, 03:46 AM
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you mean press brake while negative batt cable is disconnected or reconnect then press brake?
Old 09-15-05, 07:35 AM
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Press the brake while the battery is disconnected. It will use up any of the residual electricity stored in the system and ensure the ecu is properly reset.
Old 09-15-05, 04:28 PM
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Ok i reconnect the map sencor and reset ecu. It will crank but not start. Sounds like it wants to start. COuld it be flooded. When I got the car back there was some black smoke coming from tailpipe. COuld somthing have been damaged by runnin git with map sencor disconnected?
Old 09-15-05, 08:40 PM
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I suppose it could have flooded. If it's not too bad you can usually get it started by keeping the throttle floored for about 15 to 20 secs while cranking, and then slowly letting up. Flooring it will cut all fuel delivery while cranking, allowing the chambers to dry out a bit.
If it doesn't start up quickly step on the gas again to cut the fuel delivery before stopping to crank to prevent fuel from leaking into the chambers again.
Try that a few times, it's worked for me in the past.

If it's flooded real bad you may need to pull the plugs. Search for "flooded" or "unflood" or something to get the proper procedure for that.

EDIT: If it starts up and runs really rough, don't panic . It will do that if it was flooded. I panicked and shut it off right away, only to have to go through that whole hassle again, hehe.

Last edited by Ibumar; 09-15-05 at 08:43 PM.
Old 09-15-05, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by rynberg
1. Once the MAP sensor is reconnected, you will have to reset the ecu. You can do this by disconnecting the neg battery cable and pressing the brake pedal for 30 seconds.

2. Next time, take the car to a good rotary shop in the Bay Area like we told you last time.

3. Get a fricking downpipe for the poor thing.

4. Your main cat may be toast now from your pre-cat clogging.

5. Stop using an FD to deliver pizzas!
It sounds like the car is finally telling you "no more", like he said take it to a rotary shop like we told you a long *** time ago. Second of all, you have not done all your basic reliability mods, like GET RID OF THAT PLASTIC AIR SEPERATION TANK!! I can't believe the way you drive the car, you have not done these things yet. Dude please take it and get it checked out (ROTARY SHOP). Otherwise the next thread is going to be "my engine popped what do I do". Listen and do yourself a favor, or maybe you should sell it, at least until you can get a better job. Sorry.
Old 09-15-05, 10:48 PM
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I think it might be flooded cause i took out a spark plug and it was gas soaked. I know the procedure for fixing a flooded fc, is it the same for fd or different. Which fuse do i pull.


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