............
Can someone give me any advice on an issue Im having..
My secondary turbo kicks in and starts making this loud winding noise ..
Sounds like one of those things you blow into, a Gazzu I think they were called.
The car pulls hard, but I have no idea what would cause this sound ..
Did a couple tests & yes the car still has vacuum and pressure stored after a drive.
...
The other problem Im having, not related is that when I come to a stop & push in the clutch while in gear the car stalls .. Now Ive noticed, if I take the load off & pull it out of gear before a stop its fine..
It will only do this when clutch is engaged.
Would a slow acting idle switch cause this?
Cause the revs will drop down to 7 or 800, then it will pick back up again ..
..
Just trying to figure these things out, they are driving me crazy ..
Any help, would be a big help ..
Thanx

 

Bump ...

 

1. Do you have an open intake or stock intake?

2. Check your clutch switch

 

Don't drive the car.

Check for aluminum flakes/dust/powder in:

intercooler inlet and outlet tubes
bottom of intercooler
TB elbow

If the compressor wheel is contacting the housing or backing plate, the more metal you shoot down the intake, the lower your compression will go.

You can also pull off the rear turbo intake pipe and spin it by hand to see if you can get any resistance or contact. Some radial play is normal. You shouldn't be able to noticably move the wheel front to rear, though.

 

Do you think the clutch switch would cause this ?
As for intake
This is my current set up






I just completed your recomendations..
No dust, filings or anything of the sort & I checked 3 different places..
I also took the rear intake pipe off & inspected the turbine, looks like new in there.. No play & the turbine housing looks unscaved ..
I just had this turbo built from 2 used set-ups by Cam from Pettit
One was on my car the other I bought from someone..
So basically he took my 2 units & made one good one..
He said he has only seen one other car do what mine is doing & it was on his track car a few yrs back, he never really found the problem on his & he said it never caused any damage, so im still lost ..

 

That's good. Reason I said that is i had that happen once. Compressor was hitting the backing plate that hadn't been seated properly after a rebuild.

I'd still be a little paranoid because even a slight contact can make an off noise. Good luck tracking it down.

 

The clutch switch is probably causing the stalling when shifting into neutral. I have no idea about the turbo though.

 

looking at the setup could possibly be the BOV making the noise if the spring pressure is too low. just a thought...

 

Wow didn't know their was any 3rd gens in Brooksville. I am up their every now and then. If you want I can come by and take a look at it. What is your complete setup?

 

...........
Does anyone know if there is a diff between the Clutch switch and the Neutral Saftey switch.
Are they the same switch or diff ..

 

clutch interlock switch: manual trans, prevents starting unless clutch depressed
neutral safety switch: auto trans, prevents starting in any gear but neutral or park

you should have one or the other

 

The clutch switch is still different than either of them. It is on the very top of the clutch pedal. I don't know about automatics, but with a MT, you should have both a clutch switch and a clutch interlock switch.

 

so is this noise happening during pre-spool or only after 4.5k rpm?

to avoid confusion there is also a neutral switch on the MT itself, but it is not called a neutral safety switch. and no, it's not the same thing as the clutch interlock switch on the pedal. on a MT car you should have the clutch switch and a neutral switch on the trans, but no neutral safety switch (aka inhibitor switch)

the clutch pedal interlock switch only cuts power to the starter and cruise. i'm not aware of any other function. if there is I couldn't find it in the diagrams.

since the BOV is located after the y pipe, you would think it would do it for primary boost too

 

........
Yea, it only does it after 4.5 k as soon as secondary comes on ..


I was thinking it might be the Neutral Saftey switch instead of the clutch switch ..

I considered the BOV option, but the boost pretty much remains the same, maybe 1lb different between the transition, so if the boost level isnt that much higher, it should make that sound under boost from the primary ..?

Not sure guys ..
Trying to figure it out

 

Had the same problem years ago. Ray from Peter Farrell's told me the turbo wasn't seated properly.

Got it squared away and whistling went away. Good luck.

Super77

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/car-stalling-c-91723/

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/car-keeps-dying-when-i-go-neutral-really-annoying-860631/

 

[/QUOTE]
the clutch pedal interlock switch only cuts power to the starter and cruise. i'm not aware of any other function. if there is I couldn't find it in the diagrams.
[/QUOTE]

That is what the clutch interlock switch does. The clutch switch is NOT the clutch interlock switch. It is a different switch at the top of the clutch pedal. It has caused stalling problems on many fd's.

The spring inside the switch breaks after so many years. You can either replace it with a spring from a ball point pen (~$2) or buy a new switch (~$10).

 

which is why i said clutch interlock... i did see the one in the diagram that had an input to the ECU. sorry for not being clear.

first of all, i'm confused by the terms here. neutral safety switch is usually an auto trans term. we've established that you should have a clutch switch, a clutch interlock, and a neutral switch. a neutral safety switch has to do with the starting circuit.

regardless, you can test all these switches really easily. use an ohm meter to test continuity. if you don't have that you can leave the circuit open or bridge it closed at the connector and see if anything changes.

well, the secondary begins spinning before 4.5k, it's boost pressure is just closed off and vented to the air box before then. so, if it only makes the noise after transition it might have to do with that.

I'm still leaning towards metal to metal contact though.

 

The mass air flow is just about double when the secondary is completely phased in. I was thinking the BOV is chattering more audably. It may be also opening during the primary sequence; just can't hear. I would still check the base crack pressure.

 

......Yea there is a neutral safety switch on both cars I know cause I was looking online last night for Clutch switch and found instead (Neutral safety switch) for manual like mine its $35
for the auto car its $200 +

As for it being the BOV . I still have a stock one on there as well as the Greddy.
I have another stock one in my garage.
I will swap them out tomorrow just for the heck of it to see what happens ..
Thanx for the help guys.

 

Installed a new switch today & fixed my problem as well.
Just thought I would post up to let anyone else that has this problem know that my car hasnt stalled once since the new switch went in..
Here is a picture of the bag the new one came in with part #
And the old switch that came out with the white push pin stuck in ..

FYI for anyone replacing this switch, the nut on the switch itself gets loosened.
Then un-plug the switch & spin the switch out of the threaded carrier..
I remember someone saying the nut was rusted & they had to cut it off..
Well the threaded carrier is also 17mm, but it is welded to a bracket, so it will not move, yes mine had surface rust on it as well, but I looked closer & realized that this piece was not designed to be moved. The switch itself is what unscrews from the carrier. & it was a realy quick fix ..

 

Rotech7, ever figure out what was going on with the 2nd turbo whistle?

I have recently encountered the same problem after installing my Efini Y pipe and replacing the turbo control valve (the 2nd half of the Ypipe assembly).

My turbo does not have any axial shaft play, but does have minimal side to side play. No visible oil pooling.