ok did a fuel pressure check, here are the results (the UIM was off during this test, if that has anything to do with it):

unregulated- start: 71psi------(now i turned the fuel pump off to see if the line would hold pressure) after 5 minutes: 68psi-----after 10 minutes: 64psi-----after 15 minutes:62psi-----after 20 minutes: 62psi

regulated- start (with pump on): 43psi---immediately after pump was cut off: 39psi-----after 5 minutes: 36psi----after 10 minutes: 35psi----after 15 minutes: 34psi (im going to leave my fuel pressure tester hooked up for the rest of the day, and se what reading i get tonight)

i think my pressure is ok, what do yall think?

um, if i had a leaky injector, would my pressure have dropped more over the 15 mins on my regulated pressure check?

clogged injector?

thanks for all the help, and patience,

paul

 

ok, tested my coil packs, here are the results:

for those who have manuals, section G if you dont know:

T1 T2
A-B .2 .9
A-T infinity infinity

Leading Coil Pack
A-B .6
L1-L2 13.89

i was not sure how to check for the 'infinity' resistance, my ohm meter just didnt say anything, like if i was just holding the meter in the air not touching nothing, did i do this right?

im a little worried about my T2; A-B test result. its a .9 and the manual calls for it to be 1 ohm of resistance or lower, its close, could this be causing my no crank problem?

please review my previous post on my fuel pressure and see if it is looking good,

thanks so much, im dying to get back in my car!

 

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anyone?

 

You still haven't mentioned your compression. You should pull the green relay in the left fuse panel, pull out the lower plugs one at a time and crank it over. You should hear three strong consistent pulses. Both rotors should be pushing strong pulses. If not then you might be carbon locked.

 

I would listen to PaulyDee.. He has a shop in Indy.. i know lot of Cincy, OH guys took there car to Pauly..

 

i will im deep in the car now, looking for fuel leaks, ground problems and such, and replacing bad vacuum hoses.

are there two fuel rail, primary on top, and secondary on the bottom? are there two FPR, one for each rail?

compression just dont seem like the problem, bc the motor has only 13000 miles on it, but it could be, i will check. how does a carbon lock occur?

thanks again yall, please continue to help, and be patient.

paul

 

Let me start by saying I USED to have a shop in Indy. Thanks for thinking of me anyway herblenny (Phil right?).

The most common cause of carbon lock is if you start the car cold and then shut it down cold (less than a minute after start). If you try to start it the next day, it will crank but not fire.

13,000 does seem low milage for this to occur, but the cause is carbon buildup on the rotors, so if your car was running rich, it may have had build up. Just try the procedure I mentioned above to see if you have good compression.

 

I'm sorry to be out of context..

Pauly, what do you mean you "USED to"???

did you leave the shop?? pm me if its too personal..

Thanks!

PHIL

 

i want to 'bleed' my vac hose as sleepr1 suggested, can i get that crazy small hose from one of you guys, or do i have to buy it from www.millipore.com?

 

Bleeding the vacuum chamber ehh? LOL

Try Millipore first.

Don't forget to get the Mityvac brake bleed setup because you'll need the hose adapters to hook up larger sized hose to the crazy skinny hose that fits through the nipple in the vacuum chamber. You might be able to get away with the vacuum pump that comes with the Mityvac setup, and not have to buy another vacuum pump, a la vacuum chamber tester from Napa...?

It's this or manually removing the vacuum chamber and bleeding it that way. Let me tell you, removing the vacuum chamber and reinstalling it is a BEE-ATCH!!!!

 

okk ill try millipoer, i already have a mighty vac with the bleeder kit, thanks for the ideas

 

okk ill try millipoer, i already have a mighty vac with the bleeder kit, thanks for the ideas

 

Millipore Response:

Hello Damian,

Thank you for writing into Millipore!

Unfortunately I do not have tubing of that material and dimensions.

You may want to call Cole Palmer 1 800 323-4340.

I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any questions!


Best Regards,
Paul


Paul Joseph
Technical Specialist
Life Science Division
Millipore Corporation
1-800-645-5476 x8945

 

I think I'll do a vac chck onteh vac tank first to see how many pumps it takes to 'empty' it out... if its less than 25ish then i know it is patialy filled with somthing :-)

 

This is a good idea!

 

hmm, wonder if im doing somthing wrong, took me 40 pumps on the mightyvac to get to just 15inch/vac ? seems to hold vacuum fine... very odd?

 

well im glad to see this thread is still kicking! im the one who started it, my car would not crank, yadda yadda.

well anyway i had some primary injector problems, orings, and the caps were broke badly, and there were no insulators with the primaries, several problems, well i have got two new ones, and all my new orings, and insulators have came in from malloy mazda, so im ready to put the car back together. (thanks everyone for all your help this far!)

my problem is should i send my secondaries off to rc engineering to get them cleaned? i need the car running this weekend, so i would like to put it back together, so my question is, what should a set of injectors look like on the tip where the gas comes out, that have been working properly? the secondaries, had a little carbon built up, like that had been firing correctly, but the primaries, were just wet with gas, like that had been leaking, but they were clean, what do yall think here?

thanks in advance, my car has had an unbelieveable amount of problems.

paul

 

I used a NAPA vacuum chamber tester. It's a beefier pump with a longer stroke length that can generate 25 inches Hg vacuum from ~25 pumps (~1 inch vacuum per stroke). The Mityvac has about 1/2 to 1/3 stroke length of the NAPA vacuum chamber tester, so I'm not surprised it takes at least 40 pumps to get 15 inches Hg vacuum with the Mityvac. FWIW this is a good sign that your vacuum chamber is close to empty, if not empty...

 

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