Secondary air injection not working.
#1
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Secondary air injection not working.
I've been having a nightmare of a time trying to get my car smogged here in CA, but I recently found a problem with my air system.
I tested to see if there is any air flow from the air pump, at the cat, but there is nothing (the check valve is brand new and works). But the pipe coming out of the air pump itself, is pumping air, so I know the pump is good.
From what I can tell, the car has a different engine in it (Could be JDM?), because it has no EGR, the Y pipe is larger, and the ACV only has a port air solenoid. I am using a Series 6 power FC, with the Knightsports ECU adapter (since the S6 has the newer ECU connections.), and I am hoping that doesn't have anything to do with it?
I tried replacing the ACV with one that has all 3 solenoids (port, split-air, and relief), but I still get no air at the cat.
I also put new vacuum hoses on the entire rat's nest, so I doubt there are any vacuum leaks.
I know very little about how the secondary air injection system works, so I am at a loss what to try next. Any advice would be appreciated!
I tested to see if there is any air flow from the air pump, at the cat, but there is nothing (the check valve is brand new and works). But the pipe coming out of the air pump itself, is pumping air, so I know the pump is good.
From what I can tell, the car has a different engine in it (Could be JDM?), because it has no EGR, the Y pipe is larger, and the ACV only has a port air solenoid. I am using a Series 6 power FC, with the Knightsports ECU adapter (since the S6 has the newer ECU connections.), and I am hoping that doesn't have anything to do with it?
I tried replacing the ACV with one that has all 3 solenoids (port, split-air, and relief), but I still get no air at the cat.
I also put new vacuum hoses on the entire rat's nest, so I doubt there are any vacuum leaks.
I know very little about how the secondary air injection system works, so I am at a loss what to try next. Any advice would be appreciated!
#2
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Both the '95 and JDM intake manifolds do not have EGR. If your y-pipe is polished - fail. Apexi PFC - Fail. If you have any colors (rats nest, couplers, etc) other then black and grey they will fail you. Anything shiny, they will fail you. Greddy SMIC must have origian sticker. I don't remember if HKS has a sticker or stamp for the FMIC. Non stock intake box, fail. Replace the BOV with ones that don't redirect back to intake box, fail. If you sneeze, they will fail you!
Ok with that being said, most places won't even want to test you at all becuase it's a rotary. They will want to check the timing with a light gun. It's as funny as registering a MR2 and the inspector is in the trunk looking for the engine.
Back to the point. Most likely the Air Pump is dead (from heat). They are prone to failure. You can find them on ebay for $50 or RR&R for $500. You can also try japantola and see if he has any. But before you buy another see if you can search how to test if no one else posts how.
Ok with that being said, most places won't even want to test you at all becuase it's a rotary. They will want to check the timing with a light gun. It's as funny as registering a MR2 and the inspector is in the trunk looking for the engine.
Back to the point. Most likely the Air Pump is dead (from heat). They are prone to failure. You can find them on ebay for $50 or RR&R for $500. You can also try japantola and see if he has any. But before you buy another see if you can search how to test if no one else posts how.
#3
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okay man it sounds like you need to familiarize yourself with the emissions system. Split air is not on during idle.
heres a link to a post by arghx
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=air+pump
read the whole thing through several times and you'll start to get it.
or
scroll down about 1/3 of the way and you'll see a table that lists when port air and when split air (air injection to the cat) are on. You'll also find some graphs that list when port air and when split air come on. Basically your split air will come on above 1300 rpm with a 35% open throttle and the water temp above 50C
heres a link to a post by arghx
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=air+pump
read the whole thing through several times and you'll start to get it.
or
scroll down about 1/3 of the way and you'll see a table that lists when port air and when split air (air injection to the cat) are on. You'll also find some graphs that list when port air and when split air come on. Basically your split air will come on above 1300 rpm with a 35% open throttle and the water temp above 50C
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Both the '95 and JDM intake manifolds do not have EGR. If your y-pipe is polished - fail. Apexi PFC - Fail. If you have any colors (rats nest, couplers, etc) other then black and grey they will fail you. Anything shiny, they will fail you. Greddy SMIC must have origian sticker. I don't remember if HKS has a sticker or stamp for the FMIC. Non stock intake box, fail. Replace the BOV with ones that don't redirect back to intake box, fail. If you sneeze, they will fail you!
Back to the point. Most likely the Air Pump is dead (from heat). They are prone to failure. You can find them on ebay for $50 or RR&R for $500. You can also try japantola and see if he has any. But before you buy another see if you can search how to test if no one else posts how.
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ok, ok the secondary through the exhaust on the intake manifold. There is a filter thing that's replacable. I think a diaphram also. I forgot but it is in the manual and the parts fische. I did replace mine along time ago. Then I blocked it off after that when I replaced with '95 manifold.
It could just be the cat' itself. You can retard timing as far back as legally possible. I had to do that on my CRX every smog or it wouldn't pass. It had a sticker on the hood that showed the limits. I don't remember if the 7 has the emission sticker under the hood with the timing limits. It's also "allegedly" possible to premix some denature alcohol to "allegedly" lower those #'s but there is a trade off as it increases the NOX, so it's not as usefull as it used to be. If you have a boost controller turn down your boost. Setting it to 0 will not cause an engine light, so that is not an automatic fail. New copper plugs (burn better then platinum, just have shorter life span). I also used to do sea foam through the intake vacuum lines on the CRX but i'm not sure how to do it on the 7.
It could just be the cat' itself. You can retard timing as far back as legally possible. I had to do that on my CRX every smog or it wouldn't pass. It had a sticker on the hood that showed the limits. I don't remember if the 7 has the emission sticker under the hood with the timing limits. It's also "allegedly" possible to premix some denature alcohol to "allegedly" lower those #'s but there is a trade off as it increases the NOX, so it's not as usefull as it used to be. If you have a boost controller turn down your boost. Setting it to 0 will not cause an engine light, so that is not an automatic fail. New copper plugs (burn better then platinum, just have shorter life span). I also used to do sea foam through the intake vacuum lines on the CRX but i'm not sure how to do it on the 7.
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#9
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I have this same exact problem and even to this day I have no idea whats wrong with my secondary injection. What I did to fix it however, was I unplugged the vacuum hose that plugs into the top part of the acv and capped it off, and by doing this, it makes the air pump pump air directly to the cat all the time even at idle. I suspect the reason why the secondary injection wasnt working was because of either a wiring problem, one of the solenoid valves was bad, or the ecu was bad, and not opening the solenoid valve in the first place.
What I did is not really the "proper" way to fix it, but it does work
What I did is not really the "proper" way to fix it, but it does work
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