Barwick

I've got an Automatic FD right now and it's killing me. I want to convert it over to Manual, but I can't search at the moment (it keeps coming back with database problems).

Basically, my question is this: What is the absolute minimum necessary to use to convert from automatic to manual and still run correctly?

1) I don't *need* to change the rear end. It'd be nice, but I don't need to.
2) I could care less about the "automatic ECU vs the manual ECU" unless it's going to seriously cause some problems. I know electronics, and If given enough information, I can fool the ECU into thinking there's an automatic still there (for example for the starter lock, etc.) but I don't think I can t fool it into thinking it's actually shifting an automatic.
3) Is the TurboII trans compatible at all? And if so, I've heard that the TurboII trans is very reliable, maybe more than the FD trans, but I don't know. Don't turn this into a debate on this though, if it's not stronger and someone disagrees, it's not the end of the world, and I don't want it cluttering this thread up.
4) What has to be done to the driveshaft, extend or shrink it? Maybe Re-drill some holes on the rear end? Absolutely *need* a manual one?

Basically, what's the minimum? Obviously manual trans and pedals.

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

You NEED a driveshaft. If you keep your 3.90 diff then you will need to redrill the flange so the 5spd flange will bolt up. IMHO it is a waste of time to convert to 5spd and leave the 3.90 in it.

The TII trans WON'T work in the FDs application without changing lots of stuff. The FD clutch needs a FD bellhousing minimum. The FD also uses a Power Plant Frame or PPF. This bolts to the end of the trans and keeps it in place, the TII trans does not have any provision for bolting it up.

As far as the TII trans being stronger than the FD trans, no. They are very similar in design, the FD trans has deeper ribbing on the case for more strength and I believe the FD has double syncros on some gears, the TII has singles.

Manual ECUs are so cheap why would you bother with the auto ECU?

You need a lot of parts, trans, pedals, driveshaft, starter, clutch master and slave cylinders, etc.

ejmack1

http://www.springfieldmortgage.net/Eric/

Click on the how-to

JONSKI

So THAT'S where it went...

Elegant Black Monster

http://www.jrx7.com/auto5speedswap.htm
Try this link too.

Barwick

So I'm getting all kinds of stories from people, saying "You have to change the starter" and others say "you can make the other starter work".. basically as long as I'm in there, if it's going to save me buying a new starter, I might as well get an aftermarket flywheel and bolt it up to the automatic trans counterweight and ring gear.

But at any rate, it seems like it won't be too hard, now I just need to find a (good) writeup that doesn't end at step 2 out of 4.

FeatherTheClutch

how much are you selling the 93 rx-7 for?

Tim McCreary

I just finished up a conversion from auto to 5 speed. There are many ways to do it. If you retain the engine, retain the auto starter. If you are going to a 5 speed engine, you will need the 5 speed starter and wiring harness. You absolutely do need a 5 speed driveshaft. the input side of the driveshaft is smaller for the Manual Tranny. The auto has a larger spline and shaft size. The auto companion flange can be drilled to accommodate the 5 speed bolt pattern for the output side of the driveshaft.

You probably can still use the auto ECU with some modifications, but I don't know since I used a 5 speed rear collision car for the parts.

I am told that a lightweight flywheel requires the auto engine counter balance, so that would be the way to go.


Any specifics, email me at mccreary@cove.net

Tim

JONSKI

Don't forget to take lots of pictures.

ejmack1

you can not use an auto starter.... because you can not use the auto drive plate... which on a manual tranny car is known as a fly wheel