Sad Sad Day For Me and My FD.
08-08-02, 01:34 PM
#1
Rotary Freak
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Sad Sad Day For Me and My FD.
I've been having coolant problems for the last week and a half. I didn't know what the the cause was. Didn't want to think about messed up coolant seals.
Well today I went out to lunch. I hopped in my car and tried to start her up. WTF?! I wouldn't start. I tried 3 times. When it finally started, I saw a puff of white smoke.
Rebuild time....
At least I know a shop nearby that works on FD's.
08-08-02, 01:51 PM
#6
Perpetual Rebuilder
It seems manatecu lost his motor today also on the way to work. I keep telling him "no it cant be! we need to check out this and that!" but it sounds like he may be right. He made 80K on the original engine and he seems to be taking the news well saying things like "Oh well now I have some more work to do" and "I'll have a new engine when I am done". I wonder what is the highest number of engines lost on the same day is.
Shawn
P.S. Manatecu if you are reading this and we still havent had a chance to go through everything I think it isnt blown! Seriously it is going to be something simple...
And if you are reading this much later after we checked everything out then I am sorry you lost an engine and I have scheduled some time for the project!
Shawn
P.S. Manatecu if you are reading this and we still havent had a chance to go through everything I think it isnt blown! Seriously it is going to be something simple...
And if you are reading this much later after we checked everything out then I am sorry you lost an engine and I have scheduled some time for the project!
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08-08-02, 02:12 PM
#8
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Sorry to here about that bro. I guess we all have to accept the enivitable. But we can do everything we came to stall it for a good while. It freaks me out thinking about it cause I have ZERO dollars for a rebuild. But hey, what can you do.
Hope everything goes quick n' easy for you now. Like HUGH said, take advantage! Laters.
Hope everything goes quick n' easy for you now. Like HUGH said, take advantage! Laters.
08-08-02, 02:19 PM
#9
HARRRRRRRRR
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Sorry to hear about it I thought you were going to say you wrecked it which would be worse IMO. Good luck and DO take advantage of the time because it will be a long time before it happens again (crosses fingers *knocks on wood)
I thought you were going to say you wrecked it which would be worse IMO. Good luck and DO take advantage of the time because it will be a long time before it happens again (crosses fingers *knocks on wood)
08-08-02, 04:31 PM
#11
Blow up or win
Time for 3 or 4 bottles (or more) of CRC Copper Block Weld. You have absolutely nothing to lose but $7.00 a bottle.
If that doesn't work 3 or 4 bottles of beer probably will.
If that doesn't work 3 or 4 bottles of beer probably will.
08-08-02, 04:36 PM
#13
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Time for 3 or 4 bottles (or more) of CRC Copper Block Weld
Although I'm kinda looking forward to my engine going, so I can rebuild with a streetport
Its got 90K on the original motor, so it's almost time 
08-08-02, 04:43 PM
#14
Blow up or win
Bar's is old school and won't work - well, maybe.
They all use silicates except CRC Copper Block Weld which uses - well......Copper. K&W (manufactured by CRC) says Copper but look at the ingredients - none there. Can you say "stategic misrepresentation"?
They all use silicates except CRC Copper Block Weld which uses - well......Copper. K&W (manufactured by CRC) says Copper but look at the ingredients - none there. Can you say "stategic misrepresentation"?
08-08-02, 05:26 PM
#15
Originally posted by RonKMiller
Bar's is old school and won't work - well, maybe.
They all use silicates except CRC Copper Block Weld which uses - well......Copper. K&W (manufactured by CRC) says Copper but look at the ingredients - none there. Can you say "stategic misrepresentation"?
Bar's is old school and won't work - well, maybe.
They all use silicates except CRC Copper Block Weld which uses - well......Copper. K&W (manufactured by CRC) says Copper but look at the ingredients - none there. Can you say "stategic misrepresentation"?
I don't know though, they look different and act different. Anyway, I'm on my second K&W weld and it's holding for 3 weeks.
I've even rigged up a coolant expansion tank from a 2002 Vulva C70 to eliminate air pockets. The coolant expansion tank of the C70 is alot like our AST except it's 3 -4 times the capacity and it's clear so I can see the coolant level. It's also small enough to fit behind my M2 IC. The downside is that it's a 22 psi cap instead of 19psi. It's working great. Coolant at the top of the filler neck.
08-08-02, 05:32 PM
#16
One other note. I used a coolant combustion gas tester on my car and it doesn't change color, i.e. no combustion gases. But I still get the add coolant buzzer and light despite a brand new sensor.
So, with the new expansion tank, I can tell if I'm losing coolant internally. Now, no combustion gas leak into coolant with internal leaks means that I have a failing o-ring on the top of the engine block which normally sees vaccuum or low boost prior to being combusted as the rotor rotates to the side. That's my theory at least.
So, with the new expansion tank, I can tell if I'm losing coolant internally. Now, no combustion gas leak into coolant with internal leaks means that I have a failing o-ring on the top of the engine block which normally sees vaccuum or low boost prior to being combusted as the rotor rotates to the side. That's my theory at least.
08-08-02, 06:15 PM
#17
Blow up or win
Originally posted by pomanferrari
One other note. I used a coolant combustion gas tester on my car and it doesn't change color, i.e. no combustion gases. But I still get the add coolant buzzer and light despite a brand new sensor.
So, with the new expansion tank, I can tell if I'm losing coolant internally. Now, no combustion gas leak into coolant with internal leaks means that I have a failing o-ring on the top of the engine block which normally sees vaccuum or low boost prior to being combusted as the rotor rotates to the side. That's my theory at least.
One other note. I used a coolant combustion gas tester on my car and it doesn't change color, i.e. no combustion gases. But I still get the add coolant buzzer and light despite a brand new sensor.
So, with the new expansion tank, I can tell if I'm losing coolant internally. Now, no combustion gas leak into coolant with internal leaks means that I have a failing o-ring on the top of the engine block which normally sees vaccuum or low boost prior to being combusted as the rotor rotates to the side. That's my theory at least.
I love innovative thinkers, and I think your new expansion tank is just great.
The only way you can really tell if you have a leak is to look for those "champagne" bubbles at the filler neck.
If you got 'em, you're leaking internally, if not - you're cool. Where it's coming from is anyones guess until you pull it apart. They usually don't show up until the coolant gets hot - my theory is that's when everything expands and the seal leaks manifest. If the bubbles are larger than champagne size it's time for a rebuild, and I can't wait to do mine, but until it breaks I ain't gonna fix it.
As far as the CRC eating water pumps - could be - but at $80.00 or so for a new pump at 77K, what me worry?
Yes, I am the thriftiest SOB on the forum.
08-08-02, 08:26 PM
#20
What's your point ?
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nrolfes1
Just cause it will run doesn't mean you can drive it. I Live three miles from work and in the AM> I can get to work before it starts it's above halfway climb. Comming home in the PM. is another story and climb it does. Looking at my options now to see wich way I'll go. Jack
Just cause it will run doesn't mean you can drive it. I Live three miles from work and in the AM> I can get to work before it starts it's above halfway climb. Comming home in the PM. is another story and climb it does. Looking at my options now to see wich way I'll go. Jack
08-08-02, 10:37 PM
#22
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poman,
I haven't heard of the c70 ast substitution. How did you fasten the tank into place? Is it a seamless plastic tank and how much was it?
sorry for hijacking the thread vudoo--hope you can get the engine woes fixed soon.
I haven't heard of the c70 ast substitution. How did you fasten the tank into place? Is it a seamless plastic tank and how much was it?
sorry for hijacking the thread vudoo--hope you can get the engine woes fixed soon.
08-08-02, 11:51 PM
#23
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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Originally posted by Dont_Be_A_Rikki
Take full advantage of a rebuild. PFS builds the best street port motors IMO. So I would price them out if I were you. If not get a rebuild video and try it yourself. Be careful and have fun
-Rikki
Take full advantage of a rebuild. PFS builds the best street port motors IMO. So I would price them out if I were you. If not get a rebuild video and try it yourself. Be careful and have fun
-Rikki
08-09-02, 12:52 AM
#25
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Originally posted by paw140
I second that! First, change out your spark plugs. I had the exact same symptoms a while ago. Was VERY hard to start, and when it eventually started, a good bit of white smoke out the exhaust. I was also losing coolant from somewhere. But the exhaust did not smell like coolant. Anyway, my plugs were totally fouled, so I put in new ones, threw some stop leak stuff in the coolant (I think I used Bars Leak), and I haven't had any more problems for the past 1400 miles.
Although I'm kinda looking forward to my engine going, so I can rebuild with a streetport Its got 90K on the original motor, so it's almost time
I second that! First, change out your spark plugs. I had the exact same symptoms a while ago. Was VERY hard to start, and when it eventually started, a good bit of white smoke out the exhaust. I was also losing coolant from somewhere. But the exhaust did not smell like coolant. Anyway, my plugs were totally fouled, so I put in new ones, threw some stop leak stuff in the coolant (I think I used Bars Leak), and I haven't had any more problems for the past 1400 miles.
Although I'm kinda looking forward to my engine going, so I can rebuild with a streetport
Its got 90K on the original motor, so it's almost time