Rx7- seized rotor???
04-09-10, 09:00 PM
#77
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means the motor is blown.
Compression of 100 or higher means you are loving life. Strong motor ~ throw a keg party
Compression of 99 - 95 motor is starting to get worn. Still has life ~ can still party
Compression of 94-90 motor is tired. Life is staring you in the face ~ time to sober up
Compression of 89 and below. If it ain't blown it's gonna be soon ~ throw a keg party to numb the pain.
Compression of zero means that the motor shot an apex seal either out the tailpipe or got sucked into the turbos. Best case scenario: it scratched the **** out of your rotor housing and went straight out the tail pipe. Worst case: It scratched the **** out of your rotor housing, dented your rotor, got sucked into the turbos for a second round of fun and fucked them up as well.
You can figure middle ground on that one.
Hope this helps
Compression of 100 or higher means you are loving life. Strong motor ~ throw a keg party
Compression of 99 - 95 motor is starting to get worn. Still has life ~ can still party
Compression of 94-90 motor is tired. Life is staring you in the face ~ time to sober up
Compression of 89 and below. If it ain't blown it's gonna be soon ~ throw a keg party to numb the pain.
Compression of zero means that the motor shot an apex seal either out the tailpipe or got sucked into the turbos. Best case scenario: it scratched the **** out of your rotor housing and went straight out the tail pipe. Worst case: It scratched the **** out of your rotor housing, dented your rotor, got sucked into the turbos for a second round of fun and fucked them up as well.
You can figure middle ground on that one.
Hope this helps
its okay i found one that im going to buy... it has 100+ compression
04-10-10, 09:05 AM
#82
^you have to understand everyone is doubtful because of your budget.
so why dont you break it down for us on what your plans are and what you think its going to cost.
fyi- the majority of us do a lot more than just replace an engine when we rebuild. things that commonly get replaced due to age and depending on condition of parts are: pulsation dampener, all coolant hoses, wire harness, solenoids, vacuum hoses, motor mounts, and turbos. why because after a rebuild we want our cars to run like new again. nobody wants to get a whole new engine and have the car run like **** because of some bad component(s). Seriously how lame is that?
edit- so the guy was running 17 psi. what are the support mods that the car came with? note you cant just crank up the boost and call it it a day... there is a lot that goes on after 12 psi.
so why dont you break it down for us on what your plans are and what you think its going to cost.
fyi- the majority of us do a lot more than just replace an engine when we rebuild. things that commonly get replaced due to age and depending on condition of parts are: pulsation dampener, all coolant hoses, wire harness, solenoids, vacuum hoses, motor mounts, and turbos. why because after a rebuild we want our cars to run like new again. nobody wants to get a whole new engine and have the car run like **** because of some bad component(s). Seriously how lame is that?
edit- so the guy was running 17 psi. what are the support mods that the car came with? note you cant just crank up the boost and call it it a day... there is a lot that goes on after 12 psi.
Last edited by Montego; 04-10-10 at 09:15 AM.
04-10-10, 09:11 PM
#83
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^you have to understand everyone is doubtful because of your budget.
so why dont you break it down for us on what your plans are and what you think its going to cost.
fyi- the majority of us do a lot more than just replace an engine when we rebuild. things that commonly get replaced due to age and depending on condition of parts are: pulsation dampener, all coolant hoses, wire harness, solenoids, vacuum hoses, motor mounts, and turbos. why because after a rebuild we want our cars to run like new again. nobody wants to get a whole new engine and have the car run like **** because of some bad component(s). Seriously how lame is that?
edit- so the guy was running 17 psi. what are the support mods that the car came with? note you cant just crank up the boost and call it it a day... there is a lot that goes on after 12 psi.
so why dont you break it down for us on what your plans are and what you think its going to cost.
fyi- the majority of us do a lot more than just replace an engine when we rebuild. things that commonly get replaced due to age and depending on condition of parts are: pulsation dampener, all coolant hoses, wire harness, solenoids, vacuum hoses, motor mounts, and turbos. why because after a rebuild we want our cars to run like new again. nobody wants to get a whole new engine and have the car run like **** because of some bad component(s). Seriously how lame is that?
edit- so the guy was running 17 psi. what are the support mods that the car came with? note you cant just crank up the boost and call it it a day... there is a lot that goes on after 12 psi.
04-10-10, 09:46 PM
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The PFC is a good sign, hopefully they actually tuned it for more boost, seems like some people think just plugging in it does all the magic 
.
Well if it does need a new motor your budget will need to probably triple unfortunately. You have more than $2k worth of upgrades in your list alone, and that's if you budget shop for everything and don't get ripped off somewhere along the line.
You are on the right track though, I've come to the conclusion that a single turbo is probably one of the best reliability mods that can be done to an FD, when done properly of course. Only thing I would do different is replace the FMIC with a V-mount intercooler, but that's just personal preference. Glad you got the car and are happy about it, once you get it up and running well you will be glad you did 
, took me over a year to get mine going but I'd do it all over again after knowing what it's like behind the wheel of an FD.
.Well if it does need a new motor your budget will need to probably triple unfortunately. You have more than $2k worth of upgrades in your list alone, and that's if you budget shop for everything and don't get ripped off somewhere along the line.
You are on the right track though, I've come to the conclusion that a single turbo is probably one of the best reliability mods that can be done to an FD, when done properly of course. Only thing I would do different is replace the FMIC with a V-mount intercooler, but that's just personal preference
. Glad you got the car and are happy about it, once you get it up and running well you will be glad you did , took me over a year to get mine going but I'd do it all over again after knowing what it's like behind the wheel of an FD.
04-10-10, 09:52 PM
#85
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The PFC is a good sign, hopefully they actually tuned it for more boost, seems like some people think just plugging in it does all the magic .
Well if it does need a new motor your budget will need to probably triple unfortunately. You have more than $2k worth of upgrades in your list alone, and that's if you budget shop for everything and don't get ripped off somewhere along the line.
You are on the right track though, I've come to the conclusion that a single turbo is probably one of the best reliability mods that can be done to an FD, when done properly of course. Only thing I would do different is replace the FMIC with a V-mount intercooler, but that's just personal preference. Glad you got the car and are happy about it, once you get it up and running well you will be glad you did , took me over a year to get mine going but I'd do it all over again after knowing what it's like behind the wheel of an FD.
.Well if it does need a new motor your budget will need to probably triple unfortunately. You have more than $2k worth of upgrades in your list alone, and that's if you budget shop for everything and don't get ripped off somewhere along the line.
You are on the right track though, I've come to the conclusion that a single turbo is probably one of the best reliability mods that can be done to an FD, when done properly of course. Only thing I would do different is replace the FMIC with a V-mount intercooler, but that's just personal preference
. Glad you got the car and are happy about it, once you get it up and running well you will be glad you did , took me over a year to get mine going but I'd do it all over again after knowing what it's like behind the wheel of an FD.
04-11-10, 03:13 AM
#87
interesting about the only supporting mods being a greddy smic and a power fc... theres no way in hell that only using those two mods can support 17 psi! so either the guy lied to you about his boost level, or is a complete moron, or the car has more mods than you think. even if the car has more mods i would be weary of the previous owner as boosting 17 psi on stock twins and a greddy smic is not the smartest thing to do. as both the turbos and the smic are inadequate for that boost level.
Check again as that car better have a fuel pump, injectors, and a 3 bar map sensor (along with the ecu and smic that you listed) as a minimum to boost 17 psi.
note to properly support that boost level you wouldpl need: a single turbo, or bnr twins, cai, a larger ic, mp, dp, cb, bigger injectors, fuel pump, 3 bar map sensor, ai, a tuned ecu, wideband gauge, boost controller, and very likely an hks twin power.
04-11-10, 10:50 AM
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i meant immidiate plans (as well as itemized parts) as you stated you were going to get the car on the road by 3 months time.
interesting about the only supporting mods being a greddy smic and a power fc... theres no way in hell that only using those two mods can support 17 psi! so either the guy lied to you about his boost level, or is a complete moron, or the car has more mods than you think. even if the car has more mods i would be weary of the previous owner as boosting 17 psi on stock twins and a greddy smic is not the smartest thing to do. as both the turbos and the smic are inadequate for that boost level.
Check again as that car better have a fuel pump, injectors, and a 3 bar map sensor (along with the ecu and smic that you listed) as a minimum to boost 17 psi.
note to properly support that boost level you wouldpl need: a single turbo, or bnr twins, cai, a larger ic, mp, dp, cb, bigger injectors, fuel pump, 3 bar map sensor, ai, a tuned ecu, wideband gauge, boost controller, and very likely an hks twin power.
interesting about the only supporting mods being a greddy smic and a power fc... theres no way in hell that only using those two mods can support 17 psi! so either the guy lied to you about his boost level, or is a complete moron, or the car has more mods than you think. even if the car has more mods i would be weary of the previous owner as boosting 17 psi on stock twins and a greddy smic is not the smartest thing to do. as both the turbos and the smic are inadequate for that boost level.
Check again as that car better have a fuel pump, injectors, and a 3 bar map sensor (along with the ecu and smic that you listed) as a minimum to boost 17 psi.
note to properly support that boost level you wouldpl need: a single turbo, or bnr twins, cai, a larger ic, mp, dp, cb, bigger injectors, fuel pump, 3 bar map sensor, ai, a tuned ecu, wideband gauge, boost controller, and very likely an hks twin power.
04-11-10, 09:38 PM
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ok so when I buy my new engine i want to get rid of some things.. to free up some room in the engine bay and to cut some weight... I want to get rid of all the emission crap, power steering,... the only thing i want to keep is the A/C. Can any of you guys suggest anything else?
... I am not trying to convince anyone... I am just sharing some info that i have on the car...
04-11-10, 09:57 PM
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your going to have to find a custom belt for the AC, i dont think they make AC belts with no PS for the FD -_-
and unless you got a smog hookup i suggest u leave ur emission stuff on, if u decide to take it off youll need these
http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_block_off_plates.html
and unless you got a smog hookup i suggest u leave ur emission stuff on, if u decide to take it off youll need these
http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_block_off_plates.html
04-11-10, 10:09 PM
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your going to have to find a custom belt for the AC, i dont think they make AC belts with no PS for the FD -_-
and unless you got a smog hookup i suggest u leave ur emission stuff on, if u decide to take it off youll need these
http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_block_off_plates.html
and unless you got a smog hookup i suggest u leave ur emission stuff on, if u decide to take it off youll need these
http://banzai-racing.com/store/FD_block_off_plates.html
04-11-10, 10:24 PM
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i think its more of proper ducting everything if your looking for better temps
oil coolers, intercooler, radiator...
just removing the emission components will give you plenty of room
oil coolers, intercooler, radiator...
just removing the emission components will give you plenty of room
04-12-10, 12:02 PM
#96
So what numbers did the car pull and at what PSI level?
3 bar map sensor. Thats easy... Open the hood look at the map sensor, it's right behind the throttle body mounted on the firewall. It has vacuum lines hooked up to it and if it says MAZDA on it it is not a 3 bar map sensor. Stock map sensors only read up to 17 psi so if you boost past that it's bad news. Real bad news. IMO if you have a high boost setting of 15 psi it's time to upgrade. As a cold night could casue you to boost past 17...
You need to find out what injectors you have. That's key for future tune(s). Call the previous owner and ask him. I'd swear the PFC settings would tell me what injectors I use (I know what they are but I was checking so I could show you) but it didn't... Maybe because I'm custom
BNR's: You can spot differences but since I don't own a pair I cant tell you what they are. Contact Brian at BNR he'll tell you. He's a hell of a nice guy.
04-12-10, 12:28 PM
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That's a hell of of a lot more mods than just SMIC and ECU. Why didn't you mention them before?
So what numbers did the car pull and at what PSI level?
3 bar map sensor. Thats easy... Open the hood look at the map sensor, it's right behind the throttle body mounted on the firewall. It has vacuum lines hooked up to it and if it says MAZDA on it it is not a 3 bar map sensor. Stock map sensors only read up to 17 psi so if you boost past that it's bad news. Real bad news. IMO if you have a high boost setting of 15 psi it's time to upgrade. As a cold night could casue you to boost past 17...
You need to find out what injectors you have. That's key for future tune(s). Call the previous owner and ask him. I'd swear the PFC settings would tell me what injectors I use (I know what they are but I was checking so I could show you) but it didn't... Maybe because I'm custom
BNR's: You can spot differences but since I don't own a pair I cant tell you what they are. Contact Brian at BNR he'll tell you. He's a hell of a nice guy.
So what numbers did the car pull and at what PSI level?
3 bar map sensor. Thats easy... Open the hood look at the map sensor, it's right behind the throttle body mounted on the firewall. It has vacuum lines hooked up to it and if it says MAZDA on it it is not a 3 bar map sensor. Stock map sensors only read up to 17 psi so if you boost past that it's bad news. Real bad news. IMO if you have a high boost setting of 15 psi it's time to upgrade. As a cold night could casue you to boost past 17...
You need to find out what injectors you have. That's key for future tune(s). Call the previous owner and ask him. I'd swear the PFC settings would tell me what injectors I use (I know what they are but I was checking so I could show you) but it didn't... Maybe because I'm custom
BNR's: You can spot differences but since I don't own a pair I cant tell you what they are. Contact Brian at BNR he'll tell you. He's a hell of a nice guy.
Thanks for the advice!
and i did not say the other mods because i had a retard moment and just forgot
