3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

RX7 FD wont rev past 3k RPM!!

Old 11-17-18, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Trinityevo13 View Post


Ok some update. I did a compression check. All seems fine. Rear rotor: 97 psi and front rotor: 110psi.
glad to hear that not really sure at this point what it could be maybe the crank angle sensor like her said mines doing the sane thing or at least it did
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Old 11-21-18, 10:50 PM
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This sounds a lot like a problem i had.


You said you checked the fuel pressure? what is your fuel pressure reading?

It took me 3 times to find the damn issue with mine lol. I thought my walbro pump wasnt good anymore because i had the car sitting for about two years with like under 1/4 of gas and the car would start but it would not let me rev past 3k-2.5k and sometimes it would die, AFR gauge would show 15.6-16+ so the car was running pretty lean.

I took the pump out, everything looked fine. Went and bought a new AEM pump and still did the same till the point where the car didnt start and it just sounded flooded, so at that point i thought i was just getting too much fuel. So for the 3rd time i went and just for *****, i took the pump out again and THEN i noticed that this whole time, the problem was the rubber hose that connects the pump and the feeding tube. Put a brand new one and the car started , ran and allowed me to rev it to the max once warmed lol.



Before all of that , i changed plugs, wires, checked ecu , map sensor , vac lines, fuel lines, fuel evap system, injectors.
My injectors "seat seals" were busted and i had a small fuel leak. Thanks to this issue i was able to find that and avoid burning the car down lol.


Can you post some pictures of how you have your fuel pump hoses connected at the tank cover?

also, are you sure those vac lines you are showing in those pics above arent supposed to be capped?
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Old 11-22-18, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Jose A. View Post
This sounds a lot like a problem i had.


You said you checked the fuel pressure? what is your fuel pressure reading?

It took me 3 times to find the damn issue with mine lol. I thought my walbro pump wasnt good anymore because i had the car sitting for about two years with like under 1/4 of gas and the car would start but it would not let me rev past 3k-2.5k and sometimes it would die, AFR gauge would show 15.6-16+ so the car was running pretty lean.

I took the pump out, everything looked fine. Went and bought a new AEM pump and still did the same till the point where the car didnt start and it just sounded flooded, so at that point i thought i was just getting too much fuel. So for the 3rd time i went and just for *****, i took the pump out again and THEN i noticed that this whole time, the problem was the rubber hose that connects the pump and the feeding tube. Put a brand new one and the car started , ran and allowed me to rev it to the max once warmed lol.



Before all of that , i changed plugs, wires, checked ecu , map sensor , vac lines, fuel lines, fuel evap system, injectors.
My injectors "seat seals" were busted and i had a small fuel leak. Thanks to this issue i was able to find that and avoid burning the car down lol.


Can you post some pictures of how you have your fuel pump hoses connected at the tank cover?

also, are you sure those vac lines you are showing in those pics above arent supposed to be capped?
Hey Jose,

Thanks for sharing. I too thought fuel issues at first, however, I changed my pump to a brand new walbro 255 and the issue continued. Removed the pump several times to inspect what was going on and also checked the rubber hose connecting the pump. I had a similar problem on me Evo 3 and so I checked that first. Replaced the hose with a more sturdy option, I believe OEM (previous owner used another type of hose).

I will have to take some photos of the fuel lines off the tank and I will also get some of the fuel connections leading to the engine itself.

My engine harness is very old (24+ years). During the build I removed the loom to rebuild the engine from the ground up. Once these harnesses are of that age anything can happen, breakage, current drop etc... Before I install my PFC i will be either rewiring the loom or installing a Rywire harness. Issue with the Rywire harness, seems they sent me the US spec harness and not the JDM even after some emails back and forth explaining my JDM RX. I might cut into that loom and use as much of the wires as possible. A good friend of mine wires race cars and street cars and has his own garage / race team etc so he will be assisting me with this part, since my wiring experience is lets just say limited lol to say the least. He is also helping me to convert a Porsche 911 to EFI and all the wiring surrounding that, so I am confident in his abilities. Reason for this is, I have some sort of feeling that the stock ecu got fried by the harness, this happened to another car that belongs to a friend. The last thing I want to do is plug my brand new PFC into the existing loom and then pooffff its fried as well. The car idles very erratic as if the ECU sends incorrect or funky signals. So to be sure, I will take some time to rebuild the harness and also eliminate anything I don't need.

Once that's done I will then use the PFC to see whats going on and hopefully this solves the issue.

Project cars I tell yah lol. Under construction

Cheers
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Old 11-22-18, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Trinityevo13 View Post
Hey guys,

Does anyone know where I can get connector plugs to the ECU? I pulled the connectors from the ECU so many times they aren't holding up too well. I plan to rewire some or all of the harness.

Cheers
BUMP on this as I need the connectors badly
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Old 11-22-18, 10:34 AM
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I would buy the FD patch harness from Banzai Racing and either cannibalize the connectors to repin with your original engine harness wiring or see if this will allow your original connectors to work since it give you more room to work with. Another option is to buy two and cannibalize the first as discussed above and use the second for its original purpose and then you will not have to worry about messing up the connectors ever again. This is the most expensive option since they are $165 each but the added length of the wiring harness is very nice.
Yet another option is to buy the connectors from Rywire who makes harnesses for our cars. They sell the connectors separately for only $15 each. This is the cheapest option.
Mike

Last edited by mikejokich; 11-22-18 at 10:39 AM. Reason: Forgot about Rywire
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Old 11-23-18, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mikejokich View Post
I would buy the FD patch harness from Banzai Racing and either cannibalize the connectors to repin with your original engine harness wiring or see if this will allow your original connectors to work since it give you more room to work with. Another option is to buy two and cannibalize the first as discussed above and use the second for its original purpose and then you will not have to worry about messing up the connectors ever again. This is the most expensive option since they are $165 each but the added length of the wiring harness is very nice.
Yet another option is to buy the connectors from Rywire who makes harnesses for our cars. They sell the connectors separately for only $15 each. This is the cheapest option.
Mike
Thanks a lot Mike. I will look into both options.

Cheers
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Old 11-27-18, 01:39 AM
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In case Rywire doesn't work out, I'm about 80% sure these are the part numbers you need to order all four connectors from mouser.com. If you're unlucky they might not be matching colors and if you're very unlucky they might be keyed wrong and not fit at all. They are the .040/.070 Multilock series of automotive connector, there were white and grey and yellow color variants (including Toyota and Mitsubishi and Honda vehicles), but I'm not sure if there were keying variants or not. I haven't actually ordered or tested any of these part numbers myself, so proceed at your own risk.

Plug 1, 22 pins, mouser PN 571-174515-6
Plug 2, 12 pins, mouser PN 571-174913-7
Plug 3, 16 pins, mouser PN 571-174514-7
Plug 4, 26 pins, mouser PN 571-174516-6

Small pins, mouser PN 571-173716-1-CT . Note these are 100 minimum quantity so you'll have quite a few spares left over.
Large pins, mouser PN 571-173631-6-LP . There are 16 of these total (6 in plug 1 and 10 in plug 4), I'd recommend getting at least a few spares.

Good luck,
-s-
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Old 11-27-18, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by scotty305 View Post
In case Rywire doesn't work out, I'm about 80% sure these are the part numbers you need to order all four connectors from mouser.com. If you're unlucky they might not be matching colors and if you're very unlucky they might be keyed wrong and not fit at all. They are the .040/.070 Multilock series of automotive connector, there were white and grey and yellow color variants (including Toyota and Mitsubishi and Honda vehicles), but I'm not sure if there were keying variants or not. I haven't actually ordered or tested any of these part numbers myself, so proceed at your own risk.

Plug 1, 22 pins, mouser PN 571-174515-6
Plug 2, 12 pins, mouser PN 571-174913-7
Plug 3, 16 pins, mouser PN 571-174514-7
Plug 4, 26 pins, mouser PN 571-174516-6

Small pins, mouser PN 571-173716-1-CT . Note these are 100 minimum quantity so you'll have quite a few spares left over.
Large pins, mouser PN 571-173631-6-LP . There are 16 of these total (6 in plug 1 and 10 in plug 4), I'd recommend getting at least a few spares.

Good luck,
-s-
Thanks scotty305. I will look into this option as well. Appreciate the info and I'm sure this can also help other members as well.

Cheers
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Old 12-10-18, 07:23 AM
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Hey guys,

So a small update. Ripped out that 25 year old engine harness and wires were breaking or have been broken left, right and center. The fan switch/plug just fell off completely with the slightest nudge. I installed the Rywire harness but of course this harness only supports single turbo applications, so currently converting the seq turbos to non-seq. Been thinking to just say to heck with it and go full single lol.
I need to change the plugs to the ECU that are on the chassis harness, those look pretty beat. Will also be testing those wires thoroughly for any breakage in the wires.

Quick question, is it better at this point to run a 3 port boost solenoid like the MAC ones or the AEM/Haltech ones or use the factory one?

Cheers
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Old 12-10-18, 07:27 AM
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A few pics of the progress to date





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Old 01-07-19, 06:42 AM
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Hey,

Couple updates:
1. Completed the install of the Rywire harness. Everything worked out for the installation, no issues there.
2. Installed the Power FC as well. Hooked up straight to the Rywire no issues
3. An upgraded intercooler is on the way to replace the very small OEM intercooler. So will be installing that once I receive it.

Car started first try and idled way better than the stock computer . Car actually revved quite freely which is great. Seems like the issue was with one of the following: 1. stock computer 2. old engine harness or 3. rats nest (which has been fully removed along with other bits and pieces). I am still in the process of setting up the turbos to be non seq. So had the boost solenoid unplugged.

The loud buzzer sound in the cabin is from the oil level sensor (I believe), there were no plugs on the Rywire harness for this. Any suggestions on how to get rid of the buzzer noise? I didn't have time to go searching under the dash for it this weekend. Wondered what other people out there are doing.

For the "catch tank" (under throttle body/elbow) that vents back to the charcoal canister, what do you single turbo guys do with it? Run a new catch tank? I don't have any plugs to go to the solenoid valve so its just left unplugged right now.

Appreciate any feedback.

Cheers (oh and Happy New Year to all)
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Old 01-07-19, 10:33 AM
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Oil level sensor plug is not part of the engine harness. Itís part of the starter/ignition/ left side harness
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Old 01-07-19, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by live2drive15 View Post
Oil level sensor plug is not part of the engine harness. Itís part of the starter/ignition/ left side harness
Thanks much. I will have to double check the harness again. Maybe I unplugged it by accident.

Cheers
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Old 01-12-19, 02:50 PM
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Hey gents,

Found the buzzer issue. Had to use the coolant sender wire from my old harness and connect it to the Rywire harness. Since the coolant sender for the dash is on the engine harness.

Soooo started the car up and everything was good. No annoying buzzer sound. Steady and consistent idle at 1k RPM. Moved her out from under garage and everything was fine.
After idling for about 8 mins I noticed some smoke (or could be steam) coming directly from the twin turbos. Right next to the LIM. So I shut the car off to investigate and I don't see any form of leak anywhere. No oil. No coolant. Nothing. Nothing under the car either. I am hoping it's some old coolant or grease or something that made its way down to the manifold or downpipe. And it's just burning off.

Anyway, I go to start her up again and no starting at all. Tries to turn over and nothing. Could the car have flooded that quickly? The temps were jus about starting to build up based on the PFC - around 40 degrees C at the time.

My tuner should be stopping by tomorrow so hopefully he can assess the situation a bit better.

Cheers
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Old 01-12-19, 03:31 PM
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Have your tuner bring a priest with him. A good exorcism may be all it needs.

Good luck.
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Old 01-12-19, 06:00 PM
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1. Congrats, swapping wiring harness and ECU is a pretty big job.

2. Not starting could be simply needing to adjust the ECU maps. I've heard that PFCs have a pretty good base map but I've never used one myself. It's a good idea to double-check fuses and make sure there is fuel and spark.

3. If you don't already have a wideband installed, that's a very good idea with a standalone. I've had an AEM wideband installed for about 10 years / 20k miles and it has worked well.
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Old 01-13-19, 09:09 AM
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Quite possible it's flooded. Try to de-flood it and start it up again.

Steam/smoke from turbos after working on it is very common, burning off spilled coolant, greasy finger prints, etc.

Dale
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Old 01-13-19, 03:16 PM
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Thanks Scotty and Dale.

Great newssss!!! She started up once my tuner adjusted the map. We did however clear the plugs (unplug fuel pump and crank over the engine with gas pedal fully pressed). She idled great for about 40 mins and shut her off and started right back up again very happy with how today turned out. Even moved her from the garage and around the yard a bit. Revved out with the BOV coming on. Sweet sounds!!! Revved way past 5k.

And the smoke from the turbos disappeared. I think what happened was a piece of vacuum hose fell down the turbo or downpipe section. It had a weird rubber burning smell after a while. I did some vac hose adjustments and some wire cutting so it seems some bits got down there. No evidence of any leaks. Engine bay or under the car.

The fans came in and out around 5 - 6 times. The temps the fan came on based on the PFC is 100 deg C. Is this normal what you guys see? The fans shut off at about 93 - 94 deg C. I have an upgraded Koyo rad.

Next step is to get a basic road tune so I can break in the engine slowly and also the clutch and brakes - rotors and pads. For now I will be starting her up every other day and have the fans cycle a few times until I can have my tuner do a road tune.

Can't tell you guys how much I appreciate all your help. Dale, Scotty and everyone. I thank you.

Cheers

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Old 01-13-19, 03:17 PM
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Oh one other thing. The under hood temps is crazyyyy. How did the factory cars survive with such a small IC. I definitely plan to run a vented hood. Especially once I go single.

Cheers

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Old 01-13-19, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Boozer007 View Post
Have your tuner bring a priest with him. A good exorcism may be all it needs.

Good luck.
Hahaha. Said some prayers for sure. Lol

Cheers
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Old 01-13-19, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by scotty305 View Post
1.
3. If you don't already have a wideband installed, that's a very good idea with a standalone. I've had an AEM wideband installed for about 10 years / 20k miles and it has worked well.

Have a wideband installed. But not hooked up as yet. As in the welding to be done on the downpipe. All wires and gauges are in the car though. My tuner uses the exhaust mounted sensor mock up when he road and Dyno tunes. We will def be using that during the tune. Hope to have my gauge sorted by then.

Cheers
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Old 01-13-19, 03:56 PM
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The ECU can control when the fans activate, I'm pretty sure you can set the turn-on point in the PFC. Be mindful of the thermostat opening temperature, it wouldn't make sense to run the fans at temperatures so low the thermostat is closed.
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Old 01-13-19, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by scotty305 View Post
The ECU can control when the fans activate, I'm pretty sure you can set the turn-on point in the PFC. Be mindful of the thermostat opening temperature, it wouldn't make sense to run the fans at temperatures so low the thermostat is closed.
For sure. I think the datalogit can do it way easier. We didn't have time to use the laptop today. But will definitely look into it.

Thanks Scotty.

Cheers
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Old 01-14-19, 09:55 AM
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Awesome news, glad to hear it!

On the fans, I have a thread on how the fans work. Short version, the ECU can control one fan speed, and there is a thermoswitch in the back of the thermostat housing that controls another. You can upgrade to the 89-91 FC thermoswitch to lower that fan turn-on point from 107 deg. C to 97 deg. C. Most people set the ECU temp in the PowerFC to 85 C or so. My car typically runs about mid-80's on a typical day, it will get into the 90's on a really hot day, AC on, slow traffic.

Dale
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Old 01-14-19, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DaleClark View Post
Awesome news, glad to hear it!

On the fans, I have a thread on how the fans work. Short version, the ECU can control one fan speed, and there is a thermoswitch in the back of the thermostat housing that controls another. You can upgrade to the 89-91 FC thermoswitch to lower that fan turn-on point from 107 deg. C to 97 deg. C. Most people set the ECU temp in the PowerFC to 85 C or so. My car typically runs about mid-80's on a typical day, it will get into the 90's on a really hot day, AC on, slow traffic.

Dale
Thanks a lot Dale. I will look for that thread. And also look into the thermoswitch as you suggested.
Not sure what the ECU temp on my PFC is currently set at, I will have to check.

Cheers
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