tjdj009

Jose A.

iTrader: (40)

This sounds a lot like a problem i had.


You said you checked the fuel pressure? what is your fuel pressure reading?

It took me 3 times to find the damn issue with mine lol. I thought my walbro pump wasnt good anymore because i had the car sitting for about two years with like under 1/4 of gas and the car would start but it would not let me rev past 3k-2.5k and sometimes it would die, AFR gauge would show 15.6-16+ so the car was running pretty lean.

I took the pump out, everything looked fine. Went and bought a new AEM pump and still did the same till the point where the car didnt start and it just sounded flooded, so at that point i thought i was just getting too much fuel. So for the 3rd time i went and just for *****, i took the pump out again and THEN i noticed that this whole time, the problem was the rubber hose that connects the pump and the feeding tube. Put a brand new one and the car started , ran and allowed me to rev it to the max once warmed lol.



Before all of that , i changed plugs, wires, checked ecu , map sensor , vac lines, fuel lines, fuel evap system, injectors.
My injectors "seat seals" were busted and i had a small fuel leak. Thanks to this issue i was able to find that and avoid burning the car down lol.


Can you post some pictures of how you have your fuel pump hoses connected at the tank cover?

also, are you sure those vac lines you are showing in those pics above arent supposed to be capped?

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Hey Jose,

Thanks for sharing. I too thought fuel issues at first, however, I changed my pump to a brand new walbro 255 and the issue continued. Removed the pump several times to inspect what was going on and also checked the rubber hose connecting the pump. I had a similar problem on me Evo 3 and so I checked that first. Replaced the hose with a more sturdy option, I believe OEM (previous owner used another type of hose).

I will have to take some photos of the fuel lines off the tank and I will also get some of the fuel connections leading to the engine itself.

My engine harness is very old (24+ years). During the build I removed the loom to rebuild the engine from the ground up. Once these harnesses are of that age anything can happen, breakage, current drop etc... Before I install my PFC i will be either rewiring the loom or installing a Rywire harness. Issue with the Rywire harness, seems they sent me the US spec harness and not the JDM even after some emails back and forth explaining my JDM RX. I might cut into that loom and use as much of the wires as possible. A good friend of mine wires race cars and street cars and has his own garage / race team etc so he will be assisting me with this part, since my wiring experience is lets just say limited lol to say the least. He is also helping me to convert a Porsche 911 to EFI and all the wiring surrounding that, so I am confident in his abilities. Reason for this is, I have some sort of feeling that the stock ecu got fried by the harness, this happened to another car that belongs to a friend. The last thing I want to do is plug my brand new PFC into the existing loom and then pooffff its fried as well. The car idles very erratic as if the ECU sends incorrect or funky signals. So to be sure, I will take some time to rebuild the harness and also eliminate anything I don't need.

Once that's done I will then use the PFC to see whats going on and hopefully this solves the issue.

Project cars I tell yah lol. Under construction

Cheers

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

BUMP on this as I need the connectors badly

mikejokich

iTrader: (1)

I would buy the FD patch harness from Banzai Racing and either cannibalize the connectors to repin with your original engine harness wiring or see if this will allow your original connectors to work since it give you more room to work with. Another option is to buy two and cannibalize the first as discussed above and use the second for its original purpose and then you will not have to worry about messing up the connectors ever again. This is the most expensive option since they are $165 each but the added length of the wiring harness is very nice.
Yet another option is to buy the connectors from Rywire who makes harnesses for our cars. They sell the connectors separately for only $15 each. This is the cheapest option.
Mike

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot Mike. I will look into both options.

Cheers

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

In case Rywire doesn't work out, I'm about 80% sure these are the part numbers you need to order all four connectors from mouser.com. If you're unlucky they might not be matching colors and if you're very unlucky they might be keyed wrong and not fit at all. They are the .040/.070 Multilock series of automotive connector, there were white and grey and yellow color variants (including Toyota and Mitsubishi and Honda vehicles), but I'm not sure if there were keying variants or not. I haven't actually ordered or tested any of these part numbers myself, so proceed at your own risk.

Plug 1, 22 pins, mouser PN 571-174515-6
Plug 2, 12 pins, mouser PN 571-174913-7
Plug 3, 16 pins, mouser PN 571-174514-7
Plug 4, 26 pins, mouser PN 571-174516-6

Small pins, mouser PN 571-173716-1-CT . Note these are 100 minimum quantity so you'll have quite a few spares left over.
Large pins, mouser PN 571-173631-6-LP . There are 16 of these total (6 in plug 1 and 10 in plug 4), I'd recommend getting at least a few spares.

Good luck,
-s-

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Thanks scotty305. I will look into this option as well. Appreciate the info and I'm sure this can also help other members as well.

Cheers

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

So a small update. Ripped out that 25 year old engine harness and wires were breaking or have been broken left, right and center. The fan switch/plug just fell off completely with the slightest nudge. I installed the Rywire harness but of course this harness only supports single turbo applications, so currently converting the seq turbos to non-seq. Been thinking to just say to heck with it and go full single lol.
I need to change the plugs to the ECU that are on the chassis harness, those look pretty beat. Will also be testing those wires thoroughly for any breakage in the wires.

Quick question, is it better at this point to run a 3 port boost solenoid like the MAC ones or the AEM/Haltech ones or use the factory one?

Cheers

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

A few pics of the progress to date

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Hey,

Couple updates:
1. Completed the install of the Rywire harness. Everything worked out for the installation, no issues there.
2. Installed the Power FC as well. Hooked up straight to the Rywire no issues
3. An upgraded intercooler is on the way to replace the very small OEM intercooler. So will be installing that once I receive it.

Car started first try and idled way better than the stock computer . Car actually revved quite freely which is great. Seems like the issue was with one of the following: 1. stock computer 2. old engine harness or 3. rats nest (which has been fully removed along with other bits and pieces). I am still in the process of setting up the turbos to be non seq. So had the boost solenoid unplugged.

The loud buzzer sound in the cabin is from the oil level sensor (I believe), there were no plugs on the Rywire harness for this. Any suggestions on how to get rid of the buzzer noise? I didn't have time to go searching under the dash for it this weekend. Wondered what other people out there are doing.

For the "catch tank" (under throttle body/elbow) that vents back to the charcoal canister, what do you single turbo guys do with it? Run a new catch tank? I don't have any plugs to go to the solenoid valve so its just left unplugged right now.

Appreciate any feedback.

Cheers (oh and Happy New Year to all)

live2drive15

iTrader: (4)

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Thanks much. I will have to double check the harness again. Maybe I unplugged it by accident.

Cheers

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Boozer007

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

1. Congrats, swapping wiring harness and ECU is a pretty big job.

2. Not starting could be simply needing to adjust the ECU maps. I've heard that PFCs have a pretty good base map but I've never used one myself. It's a good idea to double-check fuses and make sure there is fuel and spark.

3. If you don't already have a wideband installed, that's a very good idea with a standalone. I've had an AEM wideband installed for about 10 years / 20k miles and it has worked well.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Quite possible it's flooded. Try to de-flood it and start it up again.

Steam/smoke from turbos after working on it is very common, burning off spilled coolant, greasy finger prints, etc.

Dale

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Trinityevo13

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Trinityevo13

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Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

The ECU can control when the fans activate, I'm pretty sure you can set the turn-on point in the PFC. Be mindful of the thermostat opening temperature, it wouldn't make sense to run the fans at temperatures so low the thermostat is closed.

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Awesome news, glad to hear it!

On the fans, I have a thread on how the fans work. Short version, the ECU can control one fan speed, and there is a thermoswitch in the back of the thermostat housing that controls another. You can upgrade to the 89-91 FC thermoswitch to lower that fan turn-on point from 107 deg. C to 97 deg. C. Most people set the ECU temp in the PowerFC to 85 C or so. My car typically runs about mid-80's on a typical day, it will get into the 90's on a really hot day, AC on, slow traffic.

Dale

Trinityevo13

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot Dale. I will look for that thread. And also look into the thermoswitch as you suggested.
Not sure what the ECU temp on my PFC is currently set at, I will have to check.

Cheers