rx7 fd running warm!!!
rx7 fd running warm!!!
Well i just installed a Auto Meter Water Temp Guage in my car this past weekend and after installing it i let the car warm up to normal operating Temp at idle car seems to run a bit warm 225 degrees to 230 taken the Temp outside was close to a hundred degress and Humid as heck then i decided to take a drive down the road Temp wanted to go up to around 240 Degrees this was scarying me a bit but never went passed this point so i brought it back home and shut it off cooling fans were still running 15 mis later after i shut it off my question is did i do any damage to the engine or is this normal givin the Temp outside that day i dont have the under pan that goes beneath the raditor to direct air flow i was told this might be the cause for some of this given i have the front mount in front of the radiator and the flow of air is not the best without that pan underneath !!
Now, ever since i installed a 3pc undertray from shine auto and the temp results were unbelievable. now im having a custom funnel made from jrx and a custom cooling plate. should keep it steady
did you guys put the radiator in the stock position?
I have an FMIC and a koyo aluminum rad which is mounted where the stock intercooler goes and I never see temps break 88 degrees.
I have an FMIC and a koyo aluminum rad which is mounted where the stock intercooler goes and I never see temps break 88 degrees.
Whats your coolant mix?
And yes running no undertray can contribute to outrageous water temps.
Please advise on both immediately.
As for your water temp, i think 240F MIGHT be the absolute limit before things are too late however im not totally sure on that.
I think i reached 225-230F once and pulled over and popped the hood and ran the fans. I had a coolant leak so it wasnt gonna get any better lol
And yes running no undertray can contribute to outrageous water temps.
Please advise on both immediately.
As for your water temp, i think 240F MIGHT be the absolute limit before things are too late however im not totally sure on that.
I think i reached 225-230F once and pulled over and popped the hood and ran the fans. I had a coolant leak so it wasnt gonna get any better lol
Probably in over my head
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 255
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From: salinas,ca
From https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/big-fat-fd3s-cooling-thread-571088/
7. Optimum Temps
65C (150F): too cold. According to service manual, EGR valve is non-operational below 150F, "to improve drivability when cold."
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
100C (212F): boiling point of pure water at atmospheric pressure.
105C (221F): getting hot. Stock ECU will activate fans to cool the car down. Fan speed will be low, or medium (if A/C is already on).
108C (226F): hot. Stock 93-95 coolant thermoswitch activates, changing fan speeds from low>> medium (or med>>high if A/C is already on) (switching to an FC thermoswitch will change this temp to 203F)
115C (240F): getting dangerous. OEM temp gauge begins to rise.
117C (243F): dangerous. boiling point of pure water with 13psi pressure cap.
121C (250F): too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to white line. Boiling point of pure water with 16psi pressure cap.
124C (256F): way too hot. Boiling point of pure water with 19psi pressure cap. Boiling point of 50/50 coolant mix with 13psi pressure cap.
127C (260F): way too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to red line.
65C (150F): too cold. According to service manual, EGR valve is non-operational below 150F, "to improve drivability when cold."
82C (180F): getting warm. Thermostat begins to open, circulating coolant through the radiator. Some coolant is still bypassing the radiator.
95C (203F): fully warm. Thermostat is fully open, not bypassing the radiator at all.
100C (212F): boiling point of pure water at atmospheric pressure.
105C (221F): getting hot. Stock ECU will activate fans to cool the car down. Fan speed will be low, or medium (if A/C is already on).
108C (226F): hot. Stock 93-95 coolant thermoswitch activates, changing fan speeds from low>> medium (or med>>high if A/C is already on) (switching to an FC thermoswitch will change this temp to 203F)
115C (240F): getting dangerous. OEM temp gauge begins to rise.
117C (243F): dangerous. boiling point of pure water with 13psi pressure cap.
121C (250F): too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to white line. Boiling point of pure water with 16psi pressure cap.
124C (256F): way too hot. Boiling point of pure water with 19psi pressure cap. Boiling point of 50/50 coolant mix with 13psi pressure cap.
127C (260F): way too hot. OEM temp gauge will point to red line.
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Flush coolant, install fc thermoswitch, make sure you have your undertray on the car and that the fans are working at full speed. Might as well replace the thermo stat while your at it.
Thanks for all your guys info I appreciate it totally and has helped. Well today im going to Flush the coolant and use less antifreeze and more water and put in a bottle of water weeter going to be doing a 75/25 mix so i hope that will do the trick and install the under tray that i got from a friend yesterday im not sure it will fit with the aftermarket intercooler and radiator well see.
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