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Those adapters use standard AC type fittings, one was male insert o-ring #8 and the other #10. I think that could be a solution where you could get the compressor mounted and have an AC shop make lines with those fittings.
The line going from the compressor to the condenser seems like it could be made to work with possibly some minor bending of the RX-8 line. Worst case have the line cut and re-welded or something to change the angle or shorten it or something.
Oh, the ag supply site also has that pigtail connector as well.
So after doing some research it looks like the Scion TC 2006-2010 has what it looks like the same compressor body and 6 rib pulley, thinking a trip to the junkyard it’s needed, buy a cheap compressor to compare a mount to see if the body and pulley aligns and with the FD pulleys and mounting brackets
I guess I'll need to go back to the junkyard also lol. I looked up the Toyota Yaris and Corolla and only the Corolla one looked like the RX-8 compressor, and that was only on some pages. I usually verify on Rock Auto, but those looked different. There is a 2001 Corolla in the yard so I might go look at that. I don't remember the TC compressors looking like the RX-8 compressor.
Then I started wondering about just looking for other compressors from any car that might have the right size pulley to begin with and one that's cheap lol.
Anyone have any idea whether something like this would work for making custom lines with either the RX-7 or RX-8 compressor/condenser? I see these on eBay marketed toward LS swaps and also Vintage Air sells them. They adapt to -8 AN and -10 AN lines. Aeroquip makes AN hose and fittings specifically for A/C, so it would just be matter of finding out whether these adapters work. This could make for a very simple and clean looking install.
Anyone have any idea whether something like this would work for making custom lines with either the RX-7 or RX-8 compressor/condenser? I see these on eBay marketed toward LS swaps and also Vintage Air sells them. They adapt to -8 AN and -10 AN lines. Aeroquip makes AN hose and fittings specifically for A/C, so it would just be matter of finding out whether these adapters work. This could make for a very simple and clean looking install.
I don't know if those fittings will fit the FD or RX8 compressor, but I'm in the same predicament restoring my FD's A/C system. Since I'm running a single turbo, I found that the used FD hoses & hard lines I picked up won't work, so I had to fab up some custom plumbing. My solution to the compressor connection was as follows:
1 - Carefully cut the beadlock hose fitting off the compressor side of both compressor hoses. Good instructions for this procedure can be found here (scroll down for beadlock repair procedure): Quality AC Hose Repair Products and Fittings from Compressor Tech If you do it right, you'll have a barb fitting for each side that looks like this:
2. My original plan was to simply slip the appropriate #10 or #8 reduced barrier A/C hose over the barbs, and crimp new ferules on them, which are available separately. I had no joy getting the hose fully onto those barbs with the ferrules; apparently Mazda may have used a slightly larger ID hose (metric?) to fit on these barbs. Anyway, it was onto plan B...
3. So after measuring the OD of each pipe, and confirming that the appropriate #10 and #8 braze on fittings would work, plan B was to braze some aluminum male insert O-ring fittings on the end of each pipe. I actually cut each pipe down a bit to make the installation fit, and sourced my #10 and #8 braze on fittings here: https://www.autoacfittings.com/Male-...minum_c223.htm Here's a picture of the end result, not bad for my 1st time brazing aluminum :
That looks like a great solution. Does it seem to be holding up well?
Haven't finished building the system yet, and testing it under vacuum & pressure, but the brazed connection is very solid. Did a quick air tightness check with my air compressor, plugging the compressor end of the pipe with my thumb, and connecting the other end to the compressor. It held pressure without leaking till my thumbs gave out.
Can you break down what you used to braze those fittings on? That's something I haven't messed with myself.
So are you building flexible lines to go from those fittings to the condenser?
Dale
Hey Dale if you ever soldered copper pipe fittings before, the technique is basically the same - you get both sides of the metals being joined uniformly hot enough to melt the brazing rod, which then flows into the fitting joint. When you get a complete fill around the whole joint, remove the heat & allow it cool. Don't try to speed up the cooling process by dipping it in water though. For brazing aluminum parts like these, use a brazing rod that is labeled as suitable for aluminum - these are readily available at Home Depot or any decent hardware store. For the heat source, while a regular propane torch will work, for fittings this large you're much better off using a MAPP gas torch - it will get to melting temp much quicker and keep the whole fitting/joint area uniformly hot enough for the braze rod to melt and wick in properly.
Yup, flexible lines for the whole system. I'm using reduced barrier #6 and #8 A/C hose and short drop 90* fittings at the condenser end because it's such a tight fit in there. Regular 90* fittings won't clear the frame rail. I actually have to drop the condenser down a bit to get one of them on/off, but it just clears the frame rail when I raise the condenser back into position.
I haven't been on the site in a month and just came across this post. I didn't read every single thread in this post but I have an RX8 Condenser running with my Greddy VMount kit using the FD compressor running R-134.
For the compressor, I used the fittings from the FD system for the compressor side and then got the RX8 AC lines to get the fittings that plug into the condenser. I took it to a local hydraulic shop and had them custom make me AC lines --- essentially...get yourself RX8 lines and just cut there condenser fittings off. I got one RX8 line from rock auto for cheap and then had to get the other from Ray Crow for not so cheap as it was new. I'm sure you could find an RX8 one in a junkyard if you had the patience. I did not.
The first shop I went to tried to use reducers to get from the metric diameter to something SAE. Needless to say, it didn't last long before it leaked. I found another shop that ordered the proper aluminum hose to rubber fittings so they could weld them to the OEM fittings. The key was them having the proper diameter aluminum fittings so they could weld them to the OEM fittings. Any metal other than aluminum isn't going to weld to the OEM fitting according to every welder I talked to.
As for the compressor, I went through a few of them in my learning process. I got reman ones from O'Reilly Auto (thank god for the warranty on them). What I learned was that if you get the one that is for a Tercell (but supposedly fits the FD), the pulley will have the wrong number of ribs. I tried changing just the pulley out and that still caused me issues because the Tercell is shimmed with a slightly different spacing. Once I replaced the pulley AND shimmed it using the shims I had on my old FD compressor, everything worked. The FSM has the proper spacing. As for the wiring "harness" on the compressor...the variations don't matter. The only important thing to make sure the wiring goes from the clutch to the pressure sensor onto compressor and then the sensor to the wire on that triggers the AC compressor to turn on.
System blows cold, even in North Carolina humid heat with R-134. Just remember every time you crack open the system to replace the desiccant bag. I made that mistake once and it was just ok in terms of coldness. Replaced it with a fresh one and it was nice and cold. The good thing about RX8 Condensers is that they are cheap on Rock Auto. I tried to replace the desiccant bag on mine and the stupid plastic plug stripped so I couldn't get it out. Since it was gonna cost me $20 for a new bag, I just spent another $30 for a whole new condenser instead of spending hour(s) trying to remove the stripped plastic plug that holds the bag in. I got what was on closeout for $48 and it was black. I'm kinda digging the black look.
As for the compressor, I went through a few of them in my learning process. I got reman ones from O'Reilly Auto (thank god for the warranty on them). What I learned was that if you get the one that is for a Tercell (but supposedly fits the FD), the pulley will have the wrong number of ribs. I tried changing just the pulley out and that still caused me issues because the Tercell is shimmed with a slightly different spacing. Once I replaced the pulley AND shimmed it using the shims I had on my old FD compressor, everything worked. The FSM has the proper spacing. As for the wiring "harness" on the compressor...the variations don't matter. The only important thing to make sure the wiring goes from the clutch to the pressure sensor onto compressor and then the sensor to the wire on that triggers the AC compressor to turn on.
Djesto - I'm not clear on the pulley you used. In the end it sounds like you are running the Tercel compressor with "pulley and shim" from the FD compressor to get proper number of belt ribs and spacing?
Correct. Total luck of draw which compressor you get. But if you wanna insure you only install it once and it’s right, transplant parts from a FD one if you have it.
Correct. Total luck of draw which compressor you get. But if you wanna insure you only install it once and it’s right, transplant parts from a FD one if you have it.
Thanks for sharing the details. Do you know what year Tercel compressor? I see the other Toyota's mentioned were around 06-10.
Hey guys. Any updates to the replacement Compressors. My system always blows the fuse and I’ve ready that it could be the compressor itself grounding out due to age. So I figure if anyone has updates may try to go that route. I know a few guys were trying out Corolla and tc compressors. Thanks in advance.
Hey guys. Any updates to the replacement Compressors. My system always blows the fuse and I’ve ready that it could be the compressor itself grounding out due to age. So I figure if anyone has updates may try to go that route. I know a few guys were trying out Corolla and tc compressors. Thanks in advance.
If you're asking about one that is plug and play with the OEM system, I ordered one of these last year and have actually been quite pleased with it:
Its the correct pulley for the FD, and felt much much much higher quality than the 4seasons reman compressor I got before it that came with the "other" pulley with less ribs.
Not recommending coolairparts specifically, you can get this one from many places I am sure. Just make sure the listing specifies the correct 6 rib pulley/belt.
Its the correct pulley for the FD, and felt much much much higher quality than the 4seasons reman compressor I got before it that came with the "other" pulley with less ribs.
Not recommending coolairparts specifically, you can get this one from many places I am sure. Just make sure the listing specifies the correct 6 rib pulley/belt.
thanks!! I’ll save this link. I was actually referring to trying the tercel compressors now that I looked again. Mainly looking for a cheaper junkyard alternative that would require minimal work I guess.
i got a question as I’ve been putting this off. I have the brackets for the rx8 compressor. But I see you’re using a Tercel compressor,do the brackets work also or was it a direct drop in. And what length belt did you use.
i got a question as I’ve been putting this off. I have the brackets for the rx8 compressor. But I see you’re using a Tercel compressor,do the brackets work also or was it a direct drop in. And what length belt did you use.
The "tercel" one should drop right in. From what I've experienced, its the exact same as the RX7 compressor with the only difference being pulley and shims. I pulled the old pulley and shims off my bad FD one and put it on the "tercel" version and used the same OEM spec belt.
I didnt even know it was the tercel version until I realized the number of ribs and the shim gap was slightly off. That's when I realized the two weren't directly interchangeable despite what the various auto parts catalogs say.
CONVERSION KIT for RX8 AC to RX7
Planning to design & fab required parts for "stock" RX7 fitment using RX7 compressor & Evap.
1. Fab condenser mounts
2. Determine line fitment modifications needed.
3. Change compressor connections
4. Change Evap connections (for both Mana & Denso fitments)and
Pic shows RX8 parts and RX7 compressor.
Project Completion date unknown.
Suggestions most welcome
CONVERSION KIT for RX8 AC to RX7
Planning to design & fab required parts for "stock" RX7 fitment using RX7 compressor & Evap.
1. Fab condenser mounts
2. Determine line fitment modifications needed.
3. Change compressor connections
4. Change Evap connections (for both Mana & Denso fitments)and
Pic shows RX8 parts and RX7 compressor.
Project Completion date unknown.
Suggestions most welcome
I was planning on doing basically the same thing. I am guessing I will end up with two of the lines with a RX7 fitting on one end and RX8 on the other. Right? Prob get someone to TIG the lines together. Keep the FD pressure switch? RX8 Condenser/Drier. I have a FMIC and I fabbed a new rad mount and left room to slide the condenser in-between the two.
I bought some RX8 fans and the guy threw in the condenser and some RX8 lines. The condenser will only be good enough for mock-up.
10-28-20, 08:43 AM
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