TwinTriangles

Buy it, do all reliability mods, leave it mostly stock, leave the turbos and call it a day. After all, it's only money...

Shinobi-X

or V8

93Efini

is your ultimate goal to buy a turbo car just to make it N/A or what?

seriously, WTF have you been smokin man?

I take it you've NEVER driven an FD, especially an FD w/o secondary boost <<< this alone makes the car slow, i couldn't imagine not having primary boost...

Don't think ever again about trying to make an FD N/A!

go buy a honda or something!

sonix7

yeah I thought your concern was reliability and money? This car is very expensive to maintain. Whoever thinks these parts are comparable to other affordable cars is selling wolf tickets! Its gonna cost you no matter what you do. This car is expensive and I also do not recommend going N/A. What are you trying to say in this thread? No its not gonna be worth what you proposed. hope that helps.

Juan

iTrader: (28)

I did this and couldnt be happier. My FD is daily driven every single day and the car hasnt given me problems yet. I've had the car for two years and it still runs like the day I got it. The first time I drove it, I put almost 1,500 miles driving it home. The very first thing I did to the car was replace the vacuum lines. Later I bought a downpipe, an aluminum radiator and an AST.

If you do buy one, get one with a lower mileage engine thats as close to stock as possible.

angelck022

Just buy an fd and experience the rollercoaster ride for yourself. I personally haven't driven my fd in over 7.5 months--not by choice(rebuild-street port/single turbo/etc, etc)! But when you get the bastard is running properly It will be the best 30,000 mile ride of your life!

PhoenixDownVII

If you want an FD without the power for the sake of reliability + gas savings....

...why don't you get a Miata? Both cars are not wagons, they both are RWD, they both handle great...but the Miata (stock) just has no *****.

Get a miata.

payne

I like my NA FD.... but I put down 310rwhp bone stock, and soon to be 500.

In all seriousness, no matter how you look at these cars, or build em, they are money pits....

Mine has 88k on the chassis and is on its 4th motor (LS1), and it was an 100% stock, auto car to start...

Corbic

Alright, I got the point leave it stock. I was just inquiring abou the possibilities. As for the Corrado and GS-T. The G-ladder on the Corrado is crap and needs frequent rebuilds, this means you ship it out to Kompresor Kanda, also most being sold have dieing chargers, if you charger is ever going, its best to remove it and bi-pass the system and send it off to get rebuilt ($600). If you don' t have the cash, go N/A untill you do. Thats all, I was wondering if the FD was similiar, which its not. Moving on.

Now, for the cost of upkeep. I hear its expensive, yes, ask any sport car form, and they will all say "its a sports car, its premium, its demands a premium price". What will the price be, what is the cause of this constant devouring of money? All I seem to find is the over-heating issues, crappy interiors and catastrophic failures. Yes, fuel and oil are double, what else am I missing?

Obviously low profile sports tires cost more, and so do high preformace breaks, what am I looking at?

Also, It's been mentioned low mileage is import, would seem "low" mileage these days is 70-90k. I'm always a fan of condition and upkeep over mileage, after all whats better a car thats been babied for 10 years and 100k miles or one that has sat in the back yard for 10 years and 30k miles.

Many car owners claim thier engines have been replaced with factory new ones or have had rebuilds (120k chasis, 10-25k engine) would these be ok cars? What about the cars with automatic transmissions? They seem to fetch far less and be far more common.

Also on the concept of speed... doesnt a stock FD do 0-60 in 5.3? I can't fathem anything being faster, hell my goal is 7 even right now. Once again I drive a 2.slow VW, it's 115hp and weights 3,300lbs, its brick. Also, no, I have not driven a FD, although I have driven a 3000GT VR4 and a 300zx N/A both felt fast, although the 300 still felt heavy, but fast. Scaries thing I've ever driven is a 500hp 87 'Vette auto.. had no idea it had well over 500hp (dealer lot), nor did the sales guy...I'm rambling now.

sonix7

your looking at 12+ years of wear and age on the stock parts. when they start to break, its gonna cost you. the parts, even stock parts are not cheap and sometimes hard to locate, and then there is the labor. are you gonna do it? that is where most of the cost is gonna be. and you have to find a qualified mechanic oe else. if you are gonna perform the maintenance and work then you can save a tremendous amounts, but you have to have extensive amounts of time and patience and expect the car to be down for an extended period of time. Next, you must have space and tools to perform all the maintenance? Rotary is a whole different ball game, you have to have time to learn how to fix it right, otherwise you will be looking at more costs. Not to mention trying to trouble shoot the sequential twin turbo system. Its one of the most complicated things I have ever dealt with. DO you get my point. that is just regular stuff, at the least this is what you are looking at, this is from my personal experience and my FD was in the best stock condition you can find. 39,500 original miles. Think about it, you have no idea what you are getting into. This car cannnot be had on a shoestring budget. I didn't even mention how shitty it performs in adverse weather conditions, like snow. I hope I got my point across.

sonix7

All fairness, you should point out that your FD is not stock whatsoever, see more newbies that don't read are gonna think your pulling that horse power off a stock N/A FD. LS1 is fine and dandy, but save it for another thread, dude wants to know about a N/A ROTARY FD, unless he wants to put an american engine in there. If that is the case then do a search and you will find plenty of info.

PhoenixDownVII

I don't think it'll be that big of a deal, lol, soon as they boast or question a 300rwhp NA 13b equipped FD they'll be laughed at and corrected....

Corbic

That can be said for any car, GS-T, Corrado, 300zx, 3000gt so forth. Do you have any numbers on what you have spent and how often? Thats what I'm looking for is some numbers and typical problems, a little more then "if you have to ask, its to much".

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=spent+poll

TurboIIGuy

All I can Say about this thread is WOW!!!!!!
It must stop now..... Someone post some nuddie pix to get this thread locked and burned!!!!
LOL

Corbic

Yeah.
Thanks for the gracious help. Rather then answer the question and being on your way, some just prefer to rediculal and mock the question, awsome.

Corbic

Would apear you either are spending money on mods or a catastrophic engine replacement.

sonix7

I personally have had the cooling fans go out, fan relays, water pump,water pump housing gaskets, new battery, motor mounts, oilpan reseal, new hoses throughout, I think 68 vac hoses, 13 coolant hoses, 2 radiator hoses, new air seperation tank, oil change and filter, thermostat, thermosensor, water temp gauge, boost gauge, boost gauge a pillar pod, turbo timer(not necessary), engine torque brace, oil pan brace, tachometer repair (resoldering). I have not touched the brakes or plugs or fuel filter and this is only saying what reliabilty charges I have incurred. On a mint condition FD, 44,000 original miles, only driven 4000 miles in the last two years. Garage kept and meticulously looked after. That is over a couple thousand bucks right there and I did all the work. The last straw was when I was quoted 900.00 to replace the motor mounts, and that was it. I haven't had anyone else head under my eng. bay since. I say go and do it if you don't want to listen to us. We tried to help. Thats all we can do. BTW I have spent thousands more on upgrades and plan to spend a bunch more. I have had other cars, Acura, Honda, VW, turbo laser, this car eclipses any other car I have owned in money guzzlin'. By far the most expensive. Good luck.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yep, one or the other will happen... i.e. sometimes you "mod" the car because aftermarket parts are cheaper than OEM. For instance, very few people are going to pay the $1200 or so for a new OEM catalytic converter; they'll go aftemarket since it's much cheaper (and newer technology).

RE Suzuki

To answer your first question, I've read that N/A 13b-rew can put down up to ~350hp~ with full modification. (Read an article off of Japanese rx7 mag.)

sonix7

prove it? and what would be considered full modification?

RE Suzuki

I'm just posting what I've read. I can dig out the magazine and I'll let you know what's been done to the car to get around 350hp if it's listed in the magazine.

NOPR

wow, cant believe this hasnt been posted yet.

https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/my-rx-7-done-cup-holders-3-rotor-semi-p-port-n-setup-stock-subframe-454580/

want one yourself?

https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/20b-conversion-kit-fd-stock-subframe-whos-interested-461939/

Corbic

Thank you.

Corbic

and thank you.