running rough( more at idle)
03-22-13, 07:22 AM
#104
main chassis harness was f***ed! i was checking voltage going to the injectors and was getting a constant 10v reading even with the relay and key out of the car. after some diag found the main black/white wire that feeds ALOT such as all of the solenoids,etc melted showing bare wire and melted to at least three other wires therefore causing all sorts of issues. i have a new harness in just havent had time to mess with it as its been cold lately
03-23-13, 08:36 AM
#106
Full Member
Justin
03-23-13, 02:18 PM
#108
Full Member
I hear ya, I was at the end of my rope before pulling the trigger on a PFC. Maybe think about borrowing an ecu from someone to test with, just in case there's a problem with yours?
03-26-13, 02:31 PM
#111
9 & 42 will be your problem children. However, they shouldn't prevent the car from starting.
03-27-13, 07:10 AM
#112
im taking a break from working on the car for the past couple of days. i plan on going at it again this weekend. last i checked the map sensor (code 9) was showing some crazy voltages around consistant 5.7v? if this is the actually case i can see it causing all kinds of issues.....anyhow ill keep this updated
03-27-13, 09:22 AM
#113
im taking a break from working on the car for the past couple of days. i plan on going at it again this weekend. last i checked the map sensor (code 9) was showing some crazy voltages around consistant 5.7v? if this is the actually case i can see it causing all kinds of issues.....anyhow ill keep this updated
9 - Water thermosensor
04-02-13, 06:06 AM
#114
update fixed codes for the water thermosensor and the map sensor. runs great now but still not cold start. im really starting to worry about this being a coolant seal as it was a b***ch to bleed and even on the first start i can see bubbles come throught the coolant when i have the cap off
04-02-13, 09:05 AM
#115
Full Member
update fixed codes for the water thermosensor and the map sensor. runs great now but still not cold start. im really starting to worry about this being a coolant seal as it was a b***ch to bleed and even on the first start i can see bubbles come throught the coolant when i have the cap off
Justin
04-02-13, 12:03 PM
#117
Full Member
when I did the test, I just did it cold and it was pretty conclusive that there was a leak somewhere internally (I ended up pulling a spark plug after the test and coolant actually came out of the plug hole).
Be sure to pressure test the caps while you're at it!
Justin
Be sure to pressure test the caps while you're at it!
Justin
04-17-13, 07:30 AM
#122
so i guess ill update this to those who follow** still battling the cold start issue. as i've stated before on a cold start (first start no matter if its snowing or beaming 100 degrees) the engine will crank just fine but will not try to start at all. No spit spudder NOTHING. spray a little carb cleaner or brake cleaner and it will spudder and then start. Hold the rpms around 3k for maybe 20 seconds and it will hold a idle perfect at 8oo rpmish. i have no check engine lights now either. if you shut the car off and go to restart it it will start no problem.
other main problem is bleeding this thing i was and still am concerned about a internal coolant seal or something as you can start the car with the cap off the thermostat housing (also my only source of filling coolant as the ast has been deleted) and it will have bubbles coming out right away. you can also hear the coolant boiling inside the thermostat/waterpump area after the car is warmed up.
other main problem is bleeding this thing i was and still am concerned about a internal coolant seal or something as you can start the car with the cap off the thermostat housing (also my only source of filling coolant as the ast has been deleted) and it will have bubbles coming out right away. you can also hear the coolant boiling inside the thermostat/waterpump area after the car is warmed up.
04-24-13, 06:27 AM
#124