mcfly4001

hey,

problem:

my car has a hard time cranking, likes its flooded, probably bc, it is, and i have this bad hesitation at 2000 rpms, where my car backfires and the check engine light blinks, but than goes off after it falls under 2000 rpms again, does not stor a code. when i first crank the car in the morning, it runs fine, until warmup, than it starts this problem. but after about 30 mins of continuous driving, my problem gets better, and if i just redline it in each gear, and floor it, and keep constant pressure on the gas, the car flies, and there is a strong gas smell, out side the car, maybe exhaust, i dont think it is the pulsation dampener, cause i cant smell it under the hood, just running super rich.

i have replaced: plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, o2 sensor, about 60% of the vacuum hoses, repaired two damaged solenoids, rear main seal, some faulty wiring, gutted the main cat, unhooked my failing airpump, check a lot of systems, like the TPS, MOP, ignition coils, etc, which have all checked out so far.

so, i dont know, leaky/clogged injector? bad FPD? fuel pump? im tired of shooting in the dark here, please help once again! thanks in advance!

rynberg

Well, with a gutted cat and no airpump running, it's going to stink a bit. You are running at rich at low rpm situations because the air pump injects air into the intake at low load/rpm. Buy a used working airpump from the forum, they're for sale all the time.

mcfly4001

though u might be right, i dont really think the airpump would cause this, bc, it did it while the airpump was hooked up, the airpump was making a funny noise, here lately, but it was still putting out air, i just unhooked it the other day, and the problem has been happening for about two months, and it was not a slow problem, it wasnt there one day, and then it was the next, and it does it at exactyly 2000 rpm's, does any system operate primarily at that rpm range? anyone else got any ideas, thanks rynberg, u may be right, i will check into an airpump

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The airpump is active until around 3200 rpms at which point it disengages.

When I was troublshooting a problem a long time ago on the stock ECU, I unplugged the airpump. My idle was crap, the car felt like it was going to stall (and nearly did). However, I didn't have any trouble starting the car.....


Here's something to take a look through:

Snook

iTrader: (12)

if I'm cruising and I let off the gas and the car gets below 2000 it starts to do tinybackfires and such

I remember when my car was running like **** I acidentally had put the fuel temp sensor where the coolant sensor goes.

i feel your pain maybe some more info and we can help

mcfly4001

mahjik, my airpump is not hooked up, but my idle is very smooth. i read that post u put up for me, how do u check the fuel pressure regulator or thermo sensor to see if it is bad?

hey snook thanks for the advice, if yall need some more info, just ask, i really dont know what to tell yall, im lost, im going to mess around with the car some more this afternoon, so maybe i can tell some more later, thanks everyone!

paul

racerxrx7

I'm having the same exact problem with my FD. I've changed all the things you did. I'm going to check the FPR and and Thermosensor next. Let me know how you diagnose this, so I can try to fix my car. I've been without it for a month. It totally feels like it's running on 5 out 6 cylinders. No pun intended. Anyway, good luck and keep me updated. thanks

mcfly4001

racerxrx7, man i know how u feel, pm me with ur email address and aol sn if u have one, and i will fill u in on my status, and to everyone else, thanks, and keep the ideas coming while we continue to check and diagnose this problem,

thanks

mcfly4001

update:

i found a pretty bad leak in my hose in which the crv is hooked too.

found another leak right at the intake, where the plastic arm from the intercooler attaches to the UIM, should there be a gasket in there? theres not on mine.

also, found a loose wire barely hooked to a sensor of some sort above the trailing spark pluging on the rotor closest to the radiator. what is this sensor? should there be two wires hooked to it?

thanks

DiaperBoy

i had the same problem b4...i had leaky injectors. It would crank but flood...hope this helps

mcfly4001

thanks diaperboy, im seriously considering your idea to be correct.

hey, i think the sensor i found unhooked is the knock sensor, it was hanging on by one strand of copper wire, and it was not screwed in to the engine block very well at all, and at the tip of the threaded part of the sensor, there is a hole, and it was clogged up, so would this be sending a nutted up signal to the ecu? and causing my problem? thanks

Sinful7

Yup, that sensor is knock sensor. And there is no gasket between the throttle body and the factory elbow, only a rubber oring!

I'd say clean up that hole and screw that knock sensor back in the thread.

mcfly4001

well i fixed my vacuum leak at the plastic elbow going to the UIM, had some trash in between the elbow and UIM, and my wire on my knock sensor was totally destroyed, so i am getting another sensor in, hopefully in the next few days, i am running a CEL code for the knock sensor now, so i will put it back in when i get it, and see if it, and fixing these vacuum hoses have fixed my problem, but im leaning toward leaky injectors, thanks yall, i will keep yall updated,

paul