Hey all,

my car seems like its running very rich, it smell of fuel so bad I cant wind the windows down at all. warm idle is pretty poor, due to the common idle dropping when Im stepping on the brakes, which seem like a separate issue,

but here are the mods.

Power FC,
T04e
intercooler upgrade
exhaust/intake

car made 263hp at the wheels only running 0.6 bar of boost, this is after being tuned, previously it was on base map. after tune it didnt gain much peak power according to the tuner.

I thought it should be making 300 closer to wheels ? I was told by the tuner that cooling will need to be sorted and boost raised to achieve 300+ hp at the wheels,
and that with the rich idling he cant fix it, it is what it is.

does that sound right ? do these cars normally run rich and smell like a petrol station every where you go ?

 

Are you running a cat?.... airpump?

Rotaries of course run rich, but for the fumes to be so bad you can't role the window down seems very excessive.

Do you have a Wide Band 02? If so, you should monitor it as you drive & as it idles. This will tell you just how rich your car is running.

Your numbers seem okay considering your running around 7-8psi.. TO4E's aren't large turbo's, but they spool quick & will make good power.

As far as your tuner saying it's "rich" at idle, and that's the way it is seems a little bleak. He should explain to you exactly what is going on. Idle AFR's can be lean as there is no load. But if you are running a full open exhaust with no cat, the fumes will be more harsh.

As far as the cooling issues, it sounds like he's just being safe, which is good. If you have a single oil cooler & a stock radiator then this advice is sound. Though you could push it with no issues, it's best to get these things sorted before pushing it. Rotaries DO NOT like hot.... oil or coolant.

 

the power output dosent sount right to me for a single turbo setup.

mine smells similar to a two stoke lawnmower / outboard motor..
it dosent smell inside the car but i have to feel sorry for the person who pulls up right behind me at the lights with their windows down!

how many rpm does ur car idle at? do you have a boost gauge? what vacuum are you pulling at idle? does the needle bounce when idling ?

 

it does bounce slightly actually , around 35mmhg and the revs are slightly erratic like its missing. if I depress brake pedal, revs drop slightly wanting to die, but doesnt die.

also if I poke the accelerator quick, it will stumble for 0.1 of a second before taking off. althought its not a massive stumble, I can definately feel it.

as far as I know it doesnt have a cat.

 

save map
do the idle learn procedure
reload map
it sounds as tho when an additional load is applied to the electrical system the idle speed drops, do the procedure and it should take care of this unless you've deleted the IAC (I recently chucked mine in the garbage) in which case you're stuck with it.

as for the power, it could be a number of things, but 260 at 8psi isn't that strange, wouldn't be surprised to see 300 on 10 or 11 psi, the to4e isn't exactly a monster turbo, but you should see max boost pretty early.

 

so its normal to drop in revs if it has IAC removed? why would one remove it ?

where is the IAC? I believe the previous owner has done alot of chucking out emissions etc from the engine

 

IAC is on the backside of the throttle body and has an electrical connector hooked up to it along with a small spring loaded actuator that you can see once removed. It allows more air to flow past to increase the revs when there is a higher-than-normal electrical load applied, air conditioning for example, and I think brakes may fall into that category.

also check the check valve for the brake booster as well as all vacuum hoses, it could be a vacuum leak, in fact, I would put my money on that being the issue, but checking the IAC isn't a bad idea either.

 

sweet, already checked the check valve, will recheck the hose for leaks etc. and see if IAC is removed or not.

thanks

regards,

 

+1 for vacuum leak, brake booster hose is a very good suggestion.
I just changed mine last week.
the bouncnig vacuum needle at idle also suggests a leak somewhere (or worse)

 

hmmm I thought I just had to live with the idle bouncing, its a slight miss at idle, and a stumble now and then, it doesnt run all that smooth I guess, no issues when you get on it tho.

Ill be cleaning out the throttle body this weekend, will have a nose around to see anything out of the ordinary. another thing I noticed was there is a load of unused plugs under the UIM, assuming its from removing the solenoids etc for single turbo, can it be cut and removed?

 

also when Im in traffic, occasionally Im getting smoke from the exhaust, not excessive, but definately visible. seems like grey colour. doesnt look like oil, more like unburnt fuel

 

grey smoke is just a result of running really rich, yes you can simplify that harness.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+turbo+harness
I'm about to do it to mine.

 

The IAC/ISC is located on the rear middle of the UIM.....white connector. The TPS is located on the backside of the throttle body, grey connector.

I'd recommend taking your FD to a rotary specialty shop to be sorted out first, then tuned by someone familiar with FDs once it's ready.

Also, without a wideband and the readings it gives you're flying blind.

 

thanks for the correction rich, haven't looked at my UIM in a while, it's currently sitting on the floor of my car

 

found out i dont have IAC, also the smoke coming from long periods of idling, seems like its oil, has slight blue tint to it, what could cause it to burn oil when its idled for over 5 minutes?

why would one remove IAC? can I install it back ?

 

What's the point of removing the IAC? I don't see any benefit... Is there a good reason that I don't know?

 

the IAC can cause idle problems if it gets clogged with carbon build up of some sort, if you still have the connector for it you can reatach it. I removed mine because of continuing idle problems with my car which I never figured out, it was just one thing to eliminate from a list of possible causes for me.

this thread has a picture of the harness with the connector intact and even has a pic of the IAC.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+turbo+harness

 

previous owner seems to have hacked out the air pump also, what exactly does the air pump do ? could it cnstribute to slightly erratic idling issue ?

 

airpump generally wouldnt cause an issue with the idle. It kicks extra air into the intake and cat at low RPM's, but since I assume you had the car tunes w/o the air pump you shouldn't have anything to worry about.

In all honesty to me it sounds either like a very large vacuum leak somewhere, or your TPS is out of wack. Check every mating surface for a vacuum leak, every joint of any kind should have a gasket in place, and a lot of people forget to check the TB for two gaskets: one between it and the UIM and the little rubber one that is between the TB and intake elbow. for the TPS do a search for how to diagnose, Rob Robinette has a very helpful how-to on his site that will tell you what should be done, and the link to his site is in the 3rd gen faq. Those are the only two things I can realistically think of that might be causing the problem, so good luck.

 

Ok, I did some work around the car today, I bit the bullet and chaged my oil from 20w50 to 10w30 as recommended by mazda, cleaned out the throttle body, put in an oil restrictor in the turbo feed, and put it all back together.

car now idles better, but Ive noticed it is now idling higher at around 1200. how can I lower this ? car has power fc, but is it simply a matter of tightening the screw under the intake arm ?
also seems to have cured the smoking when Idling, but time will tell.

 

there are 2 screws and at least 2 sensors on the TB that should be checked, the regular set-idle screw, the air bleed screw under the intake elbow, and the TPS should all be adjusted until you can get the car to idle where you want. The TPS voltages can be found in the PFC Commander somewhere so that makes it *really* easy to fix that, and from there you just change up the idle set and air bleed screw to get it where you want.

 

sweet, will check that the power fc settings are all sweet and if its not as whats shown, Ill fiddle around with two screws

 

and if you're running 850 in the primary locations then the power FC is not the most ideal EMS for tuning out the idle to lean it out.

 

ok fiddled with the settings on the power fc, and instantly the car starts hundting idle,
then after about 3 hunts it settles down, could my tps be adjusted wrong ?
screwed down the screw behind the elbow all the way in. still idling aroudn 1000 or 1100
and seems to hund every time I do anything to the throttle pedal.

 

the idle will hunt if the car is still in idle learn mode, generally when your idle does not match your idle settings in the powerFC because the idle screw is set too high.