Jesus loves rotaries

So right now the engine has barely 5000 miles on a brand new rebuild, new apex seals all around and new front rotor housing and rotor done by a rotary specific shop here in Tampa.

Two weeks ago I finished the turbo swap on the car (brand new stage 2 BNR's running sequential) and they were working great. About 4 days ago I was on my way home from school and I stopped at a traffic light and I noticed that my idle was really rough and acting up.

Now the car is running stock boost and is not tuned at the moment but I haven't been boosting this car at all since it's not tuned other than twice to make sure the turbos were in perfect working condition. Right now it idle's rough and when it's warmed up it bounces in between 700-1000 rpms but it does not sound like it has lost compression. I don't have a tester but I am taking it in tomorrow to get a compression test but I highly doubt it could be a bad apex on such a new engine.

I changed the spark plugs yesterday and checked all over for loose vacuum hoses all around the entire engine although I haven't tore into the UIM yet I have pulled of the air tank and the stock boost solenoids and took a look underneath and found nothing disconnected. I also tried messing with the PFC's idle control to see if I could fix it that way but to no avail. Right now she runs but you can tell even when driving it doesn't sound to great.

I just need some insight right now and any would be really helpful this car is supposed to be getting tuned by Steve Kan in 2 weeks so I really need to get her running before then.

Smitter

did u check the vaccuum hose on the map sensor?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

Its not the engine. I actually have had this problem with my car, but with me it would happen intermittently. When I had my old ecu installed in my car, the idle would bounce between 700-1500 rpm, VERY annoying. It was intermitent, in that i'd be driving and everything is perfectly fine, then out of nowhere it starts bouncing around, and there is no way to stop it...then it would go away by itself. When I replaced the ecu, the problem went away. Very strange, but for me, changing the ecu solved the problem.

Jesus loves rotaries

That is a possibility but I want to make sure it's not anything else because like I said earlier I am getting a tune in 2 weeks and this things has got to be in top shape for it.

Jesus loves rotaries

Alright hey guys I just got out from underneath the car and it sounds that there could possibly be an exhaust leak or a leak from the turbo manifold. Could this possibly be the source of the problem?

Triperformance

Is the leak before your O2 sensor? If so it could cause your mixture to be too lean or rich and may cause your idle issue. Just a though to consider, hope you find the issue!

Jesus loves rotaries

Yeah the leak would be directly from the manifold itself or where the downpipe connects to the manifold I know that I should have probably torqued the bolts down with a torque wrench but I didn't take the engine out to replace the turbos. Tomorrow I am going to have to pull off the intakes piping and the Y pipe and check the DP and the manifold again. I am sure now that this is probably the main problem and I am gonna have to tighten the bolts down real good.

mad_7tist

with the pfc you will have the o2 feed back disabled, or you should, so the exhaust leak is not the issue. have you done the idle learn? have you adjusted the air bleed screw? does it miss under load?

Obie2kenobe

Have you figured anything out with this one yet?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I actually just spent about 10 hours fixing the idle on a sequential FD with PFC and stock twins at 14psi.

There are a ton of things it could be, and a lot of the stuff is actually covered in Chuck Westbrook's tuning guide he sells (you can pm him about it, cewrx7r1) . Check that the clutch switch is engaging on the PFC sensor check screen. Check your throttle and cruise control cable tension. There should be about 1 to 2 mm of freeplay.

Then you need to remove the TB elbow and you will see an idle adjuster screw on the bottom of the throttle body (recessed between the bottom two studs for the TB elbow), facing toward the driver side fender. Get a stubby flathead and tighten that screw all the way in, then back it out to about half a turn. Reset the Power FC and follow the idle self-learning procedure in the manual, available on the Apex'i website. After you reset the PFC but before you start the car to perform the idle learning, make sure O2 F/B and idle IG control are turned off under function select. Although there are a number of other throttlebody screws that sometimes need to be adjusted (5 idle adjuster screws total actually), besides that one screw I mentioned just leave the TB alone as you might make things worse at this point.

Beyond that, you're pretty much out of luck without a datalogit and significant tuning knowledge to get the idle set right.

Jesus loves rotaries

I never solved the problem myself due to the fact that last week the transmission got stuck in reverse gear (although the shifter was in neutral) so right now it is at Maztech in tampa getting the tranny and the idle fixed. I can say thought that I properly adjusted the TPS and that did improve the idle but it's still a little off...

Obie2kenobe

you should let me know how that turns out and what it is that they fix.
Thanx

GreatShamanGT

iTrader: (9)

How do you reset the PFC?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

etc --> all data init . then turn the key off and back on.

axnjaksn

iTrader: (2)

arghx is right, I have chucks tuning notes, worth every penny, printed them out and put em in a folder, read the whole thing before you do anything tho, my idle issue I had was forst a bad aws solenoid, then my ignition harness shorting out and killing my coils, replaced the parts, or bypassed them(aws solenoid) and followed chucks notes and I am golden!!!