No, I ment by Jumping the TEN and GND in the diagnosis box, before you make the adjustment ( but unpluging it would work too). Then the ICS will have enough range to control the idle properly.

 

Oh yeah I did jump the TEN and GND since it was mentioned however I did not know why I had to do it but I still did. However I don't think I jumped them correctly cause unplugging the ISCV made a huge drop in the RPM as opposed to the jumping did nothing. *ready to pull his hair out* At least I'm getting things checked off my list so not to many more things to check cept I was thinking of getting a new cable for the battery, alt, and starter and seeing what that does. :-/ Then next two days off I think I'll schedule to get a compression done at Mazda by their elite non-master rotary mechanic.

 

PN new fd02-67-e70 listed as an Earth wire. Have them pull TSB 005/97. PM your email and I can get you a PSF of it on Monday but I think they are out there. Given what you are describing I doubt its the ground. Get the LIM checked - and if you can find a stock ECU from another car you may try swaping it out to see if the ECU is flukey

 

do you have a stock ECU?

 

Thanks for the part number psquare8! Also it is a stock ECU and I still haven't fixed my problem. Some other things my car likes to do especially on a cold night is when I go to turn the car on the key gets to the ACC setting and the electrical power comes on for a split second then shuts off and all electrical power is gone until I pop the hood and wiggle the negative cable on the battery terminal then the power comes back on without have to disconnect the cable..just rotate it. I've cleaned the connections and don't have a clue. So far I've rulled out...

Idle setting
TPS
Battery
Alternator
Most grounds

So now I've been looking through the FSM and was thinking to check the electrical load system box but I have no clue what the FSM is saying in order to inspect it. Frustration is my life.

 

I should also probably mention that my car runs "rough" as in runs like crap and completely changes exhaust sound under around 1800 RPM's the car drives and reacts perfectly above 2k but under it runs pretty choppy. As if the car is running really rich or really lean. The only other thing that comes to mind is that the nipple on the double throttle solenoid broke off and that hole isn't plugged but all the connections on the manifold are plugged and I was told that leaving the solenoid unplugged shoulnd't effect the car. Hmm I think thats pretty much what I got to work with right now.

 

have you done a compression check?

 

The brake booster hose has the check valve in the hose, about in the middle of the hose. squeeze and you'll feel it. also you can kinda see the bulge, like a snake with something in his belly. i replaced mine recenty because I was having similar problems, and I thought that might be the culprit. the hose comes with both hoses and it was only like 30 bucks.

 

well i kind of had the same problem. i did a compression test and it was low and on the way to the dealer to get an engine rebuilt i pulled it a little to hard and broke the apex seals in the front rotor.

So i recomend you get your compression checked i tried fixing the same problem for like 2 months before blowing the seals completly. when my engine died i have 90psi on the rear and 0 on the front rotor

 

FallenCho,

Did you ever get the compression checked with a rotary checker like you said you were going to?

Dave

 

I haven't been able to get the compression test done yet thanks to my dealer only having one rotary mech and he's hardly ever there. Gonna try calling again today and see if I can get in. However I don't think it's the compression at all cause the motor pulls hard and runs strong and the only time I had any issues with my car was after I had grounded that throttle cable to the alternator...then my current issues occured and the only thing that I've really found that was bad was the IACV which was replaced. However the compression test can't hurt but 6k for a rebuild if so can make a man cry inside.

 

Well, it's like going in for a physical exam - you don't want to find out anything is wrong, but if you find out you (or in this case, the engine) are in good health, then you don't have to worry about it. And if it's not, then it's better not to waste time trying to fix other things that were not the problem, and concentrate on what is.

Dave

 

yeah, I think low compression is causing my similar problems. I've got 80k on my reman, so I think it's time.

the reason it runs perfect off idle is because the faster it spins, the more compression it makes. less time for the air/fuel mix to leak out the seals. mine runs like a dream above idle.

 

LMFAO! My dealer just quoted me 180 to get a compression test done...trying to say it will take 2hrs. Now tell me thats not bs.

 

not BS to me. I work at a dealership and know what it's like. also, the spark plugs are not the easiest thing to get in and out.

 

I just changed all four of my plugs in 20 mins this morning...that was without taking off the elbow or any other part and god damn my plugs had more build up on them then anything. Maybe my gas mileage will improve a lil now.

 

well, if you don't like what they quoted you, don't pay it!

 

Well the buildup could be a variety or reasons. The $160 is a bit high but not much- a good rotary shop is going to charge close to that - call them and ask. Labor rate is probably $80-100/hr. Multiply your 20 time 4-that is 1hr and 20 minutes - they will check Leading and Trailing on both rotors. THey also need to take the elbow off to get some room to work, and disconnect reconnect etc. While they are at it have them check your LIM gasket - if its blown it can do what you are seeing.

 

I think the build up was from when my turbos went bye bye since the mech who did my turbo install didn't put new plugs in and the engine had flooded. If you guys think that price is right then maybe I'm wrong but I've just looked at it in terms of how fast I can take off the elbow and undo the spark plugs but I guess it's still cheaper then spending 1k on your own compression tester. :-/

However it looks like the compression test is now my last thing to get done since I checked my MAP sensor and finally did my plugs and that all checked out. Also I tried the carb cleaner trick on my LIM and the RPM stayed constant although I know this doesn't always work but time to give in for the compression test. Anyways thanks again for all the input...I really do appreciate all the advice even though I'm still very dizzy after hearing the compression test quote...just seemed so simple in my head. *whiner*

 

pull your EGI relay off (yellow relay next to your battery, box says EGI MAIN)

You want to have your window open or something so that you can hear your starter. Also, have someone at your exhaust pipe if you can, so they can hear if theres compression.

Turn your car over, and make sure the sound of your car turning over is consistent. it should sound like put put put put put put. if you hear a put put put swoosh swoosh put, then you most likely have a bad apex seal. It will probably be hard to tell, but like i said, the main thing you are looking for is consistency of the sound.

if it sounds consistent, then you should be okay.

 

Why waste time just go get the comp test done man! it will save you alot of trouble casue that might be the problem.

 

I haven't got the comp test done cause it's $180 and I seriously don't think my problem has to do with compression because my car ran perfectly fine until I hit that throttle cable to the alt and that killed some sensors which I've replaced and that fixed my surging idle problem and some others. I'm led to believe that this last problem is definetely electrical in nature because if I remember right. When I was running the Power FC my car had no problems...but I'm not 100% sure. However a friend is gonne lend me his compression gauge so I will just do it myself when I have some more time off just to get that possibility out of the way.

 

did you do the test that i told you to do?

 

I know back from the dead but I still have this issue and I have done a compression test and all faces still love me. Vacuum is around 14 and some times around 12 after running the car for a bit. The car still pulls very strong it's just at idle it doesn't like me to push the brakes in or hit the window switches. Also the cars idle will not set unless the car is fully warm. It will sit around 1500 til it warms up and that's on a Power FC with the AWS disabled.

 

I just got done checking the coils today and they all checked out fine as far as the FSM states. So now I've checked the following:

-compression
-TPS
-IACV
-coils
-vacuum lines
-timing
-probably more obvious things I can't remember

So now Ive come to the conclusion that since my turbos seem to be leaking an abnormal amount of oil through the intercooler pipingand eating coolant I figure they are on there way out even though a forum member said they are lowed miled and all that this must be the cause of my problems. I just ask that someone please confirm that bad turbos can cause vacuum problems on our cars.