Rough Idle Need Input
#26
Warming the planet.
Originally Posted by FallenCho
If you mean unplugging the Idle Speed Control Valve then no I did not do that. Supposeably my mech did a compression check and said the engine was still running strong but he isn't the smartest person in the world so maybe I'll take it to Mazda and see what the one whole rotary mechanic there says.
No, I ment by Jumping the TEN and GND in the diagnosis box, before you make the adjustment ( but unpluging it would work too). Then the ICS will have enough range to control the idle properly.
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Oh yeah I did jump the TEN and GND since it was mentioned however I did not know why I had to do it but I still did. However I don't think I jumped them correctly cause unplugging the ISCV made a huge drop in the RPM as opposed to the jumping did nothing. *ready to pull his hair out* At least I'm getting things checked off my list so not to many more things to check cept I was thinking of getting a new cable for the battery, alt, and starter and seeing what that does. :-/ Then next two days off I think I'll schedule to get a compression done at Mazda by their elite non-master rotary mechanic.
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Originally Posted by FallenCho
Ok so today I got the TPS tuned in perfectly *gotta love that ground in the diagnosis box* and then I adjusted the idle to 750 on the dot and it holds the idle perfectly however the vacuum on my boost gauge reads 12.5-13'sh on idle and I still have the issue when putting an electrical load on the car besides the air conditioner and headlights obviously. Idle still dips way down when I hold the window switch up or down and the idle tries to regain itself but still is a bit low until I let go of the switches then it is perfectly fine again.
So now I wanna check the grouns so does anyone know the part number for the updated ground cable from the UIM to the firewall? My dealer couldn't find it for the life of him. Thanks again for all the responses.
So now I wanna check the grouns so does anyone know the part number for the updated ground cable from the UIM to the firewall? My dealer couldn't find it for the life of him. Thanks again for all the responses.
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Thanks for the part number psquare8! Also it is a stock ECU and I still haven't fixed my problem. Some other things my car likes to do especially on a cold night is when I go to turn the car on the key gets to the ACC setting and the electrical power comes on for a split second then shuts off and all electrical power is gone until I pop the hood and wiggle the negative cable on the battery terminal then the power comes back on without have to disconnect the cable..just rotate it. I've cleaned the connections and don't have a clue. So far I've rulled out...
Idle setting
TPS
Battery
Alternator
Most grounds
So now I've been looking through the FSM and was thinking to check the electrical load system box but I have no clue what the FSM is saying in order to inspect it. Frustration is my life.
Idle setting
TPS
Battery
Alternator
Most grounds
So now I've been looking through the FSM and was thinking to check the electrical load system box but I have no clue what the FSM is saying in order to inspect it. Frustration is my life.
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I should also probably mention that my car runs "rough" as in runs like crap and completely changes exhaust sound under around 1800 RPM's the car drives and reacts perfectly above 2k but under it runs pretty choppy. As if the car is running really rich or really lean. The only other thing that comes to mind is that the nipple on the double throttle solenoid broke off and that hole isn't plugged but all the connections on the manifold are plugged and I was told that leaving the solenoid unplugged shoulnd't effect the car. Hmm I think thats pretty much what I got to work with right now.
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Originally Posted by FallenCho
I should also probably mention that my car runs "rough" as in runs like crap and completely changes exhaust sound under around 1800 RPM's the car drives and reacts perfectly above 2k but under it runs pretty choppy. As if the car is running really rich or really lean. The only other thing that comes to mind is that the nipple on the double throttle solenoid broke off and that hole isn't plugged but all the connections on the manifold are plugged and I was told that leaving the solenoid unplugged shoulnd't effect the car. Hmm I think thats pretty much what I got to work with right now.
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The brake booster hose has the check valve in the hose, about in the middle of the hose. squeeze and you'll feel it. also you can kinda see the bulge, like a snake with something in his belly. i replaced mine recenty because I was having similar problems, and I thought that might be the culprit. the hose comes with both hoses and it was only like 30 bucks.
#34
well i kind of had the same problem. i did a compression test and it was low and on the way to the dealer to get an engine rebuilt i pulled it a little to hard and broke the apex seals in the front rotor.
So i recomend you get your compression checked i tried fixing the same problem for like 2 months before blowing the seals completly. when my engine died i have 90psi on the rear and 0 on the front rotor
So i recomend you get your compression checked i tried fixing the same problem for like 2 months before blowing the seals completly. when my engine died i have 90psi on the rear and 0 on the front rotor
#35
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FallenCho,
Did you ever get the compression checked with a rotary checker like you said you were going to?
Dave
Did you ever get the compression checked with a rotary checker like you said you were going to?
Dave
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I haven't been able to get the compression test done yet thanks to my dealer only having one rotary mech and he's hardly ever there. Gonna try calling again today and see if I can get in. However I don't think it's the compression at all cause the motor pulls hard and runs strong and the only time I had any issues with my car was after I had grounded that throttle cable to the alternator...then my current issues occured and the only thing that I've really found that was bad was the IACV which was replaced. However the compression test can't hurt but 6k for a rebuild if so can make a man cry inside.
#37
Racecar - Formula 2000
Originally Posted by FallenCho
I haven't been able to get the compression test done yet thanks to my dealer only having one rotary mech and he's hardly ever there. Gonna try calling again today and see if I can get in. However I don't think it's the compression at all cause the motor pulls hard and runs strong and the only time I had any issues with my car was after I had grounded that throttle cable to the alternator...then my current issues occured and the only thing that I've really found that was bad was the IACV which was replaced. However the compression test can't hurt but 6k for a rebuild if so can make a man cry inside.
Dave
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yeah, I think low compression is causing my similar problems. I've got 80k on my reman, so I think it's time.
the reason it runs perfect off idle is because the faster it spins, the more compression it makes. less time for the air/fuel mix to leak out the seals. mine runs like a dream above idle.
the reason it runs perfect off idle is because the faster it spins, the more compression it makes. less time for the air/fuel mix to leak out the seals. mine runs like a dream above idle.
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I just changed all four of my plugs in 20 mins this morning...that was without taking off the elbow or any other part and god damn my plugs had more build up on them then anything. Maybe my gas mileage will improve a lil now.
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Originally Posted by FallenCho
I just changed all four of my plugs in 20 mins this morning...that was without taking off the elbow or any other part and god damn my plugs had more build up on them then anything. Maybe my gas mileage will improve a lil now.
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I think the build up was from when my turbos went bye bye since the mech who did my turbo install didn't put new plugs in and the engine had flooded. If you guys think that price is right then maybe I'm wrong but I've just looked at it in terms of how fast I can take off the elbow and undo the spark plugs but I guess it's still cheaper then spending 1k on your own compression tester. :-/
However it looks like the compression test is now my last thing to get done since I checked my MAP sensor and finally did my plugs and that all checked out. Also I tried the carb cleaner trick on my LIM and the RPM stayed constant although I know this doesn't always work but time to give in for the compression test. Anyways thanks again for all the input...I really do appreciate all the advice even though I'm still very dizzy after hearing the compression test quote...just seemed so simple in my head. *whiner*
However it looks like the compression test is now my last thing to get done since I checked my MAP sensor and finally did my plugs and that all checked out. Also I tried the carb cleaner trick on my LIM and the RPM stayed constant although I know this doesn't always work but time to give in for the compression test. Anyways thanks again for all the input...I really do appreciate all the advice even though I'm still very dizzy after hearing the compression test quote...just seemed so simple in my head. *whiner*
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Originally Posted by FallenCho
I think the build up was from when my turbos went bye bye since the mech who did my turbo install didn't put new plugs in and the engine had flooded. If you guys think that price is right then maybe I'm wrong but I've just looked at it in terms of how fast I can take off the elbow and undo the spark plugs but I guess it's still cheaper then spending 1k on your own compression tester. :-/
However it looks like the compression test is now my last thing to get done since I checked my MAP sensor and finally did my plugs and that all checked out. Also I tried the carb cleaner trick on my LIM and the RPM stayed constant although I know this doesn't always work but time to give in for the compression test. Anyways thanks again for all the input...I really do appreciate all the advice even though I'm still very dizzy after hearing the compression test quote...just seemed so simple in my head. *whiner*
However it looks like the compression test is now my last thing to get done since I checked my MAP sensor and finally did my plugs and that all checked out. Also I tried the carb cleaner trick on my LIM and the RPM stayed constant although I know this doesn't always work but time to give in for the compression test. Anyways thanks again for all the input...I really do appreciate all the advice even though I'm still very dizzy after hearing the compression test quote...just seemed so simple in my head. *whiner*
You want to have your window open or something so that you can hear your starter. Also, have someone at your exhaust pipe if you can, so they can hear if theres compression.
Turn your car over, and make sure the sound of your car turning over is consistent. it should sound like put put put put put put. if you hear a put put put swoosh swoosh put, then you most likely have a bad apex seal. It will probably be hard to tell, but like i said, the main thing you are looking for is consistency of the sound.
if it sounds consistent, then you should be okay.
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I haven't got the comp test done cause it's $180 and I seriously don't think my problem has to do with compression because my car ran perfectly fine until I hit that throttle cable to the alt and that killed some sensors which I've replaced and that fixed my surging idle problem and some others. I'm led to believe that this last problem is definetely electrical in nature because if I remember right. When I was running the Power FC my car had no problems...but I'm not 100% sure. However a friend is gonne lend me his compression gauge so I will just do it myself when I have some more time off just to get that possibility out of the way.
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I know back from the dead but I still have this issue and I have done a compression test and all faces still love me. Vacuum is around 14 and some times around 12 after running the car for a bit. The car still pulls very strong it's just at idle it doesn't like me to push the brakes in or hit the window switches. Also the cars idle will not set unless the car is fully warm. It will sit around 1500 til it warms up and that's on a Power FC with the AWS disabled.
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I just got done checking the coils today and they all checked out fine as far as the FSM states. So now I've checked the following:
-compression
-TPS
-IACV
-coils
-vacuum lines
-timing
-probably more obvious things I can't remember
So now Ive come to the conclusion that since my turbos seem to be leaking an abnormal amount of oil through the intercooler pipingand eating coolant I figure they are on there way out even though a forum member said they are lowed miled and all that this must be the cause of my problems. I just ask that someone please confirm that bad turbos can cause vacuum problems on our cars.
-compression
-TPS
-IACV
-coils
-vacuum lines
-timing
-probably more obvious things I can't remember
So now Ive come to the conclusion that since my turbos seem to be leaking an abnormal amount of oil through the intercooler pipingand eating coolant I figure they are on there way out even though a forum member said they are lowed miled and all that this must be the cause of my problems. I just ask that someone please confirm that bad turbos can cause vacuum problems on our cars.
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