Rough idle, die on gas. No problem if rev.
06-30-13, 01:19 PM
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Rough idle, die on gas. No problem if rev.
Ok let's start....
I have a '01 FD3S.
Went on a little trip (around 60 KM) and encountered various very slow car.... temp reached around 100-105 C. not more.
After i reached my destination i stopped the car for around 30 minutes.
Restarded the car with no problem and made other 20 KM and stopped.
After this car sitted for around 50 minutes and when i tried to restart it here the problem....
Difficult to fire and very roug idle (under 500 rpm) when i tried to push gas a little car stall.....
tried 2 times with same result.....at the 4th try i succed in overcoming 1000 rpm and moved the car.
I do again the same 60KM without problem, good power good boost and no rough driving.
When i arrived at home and release the gas the rough idle come back....(but this time if i press gas car don't stall but go over 1000 rpm "without problem".
Idle is rough but car don't stall this time if i let it idling.
I let car rest for the night and try restarting it tomorrow.
Any idea about the problem?
I have a '01 FD3S.
Went on a little trip (around 60 KM) and encountered various very slow car.... temp reached around 100-105 C. not more.
After i reached my destination i stopped the car for around 30 minutes.
Restarded the car with no problem and made other 20 KM and stopped.
After this car sitted for around 50 minutes and when i tried to restart it here the problem....
Difficult to fire and very roug idle (under 500 rpm) when i tried to push gas a little car stall.....
tried 2 times with same result.....at the 4th try i succed in overcoming 1000 rpm and moved the car.
I do again the same 60KM without problem, good power good boost and no rough driving.
When i arrived at home and release the gas the rough idle come back....(but this time if i press gas car don't stall but go over 1000 rpm "without problem".
Idle is rough but car don't stall this time if i let it idling.
I let car rest for the night and try restarting it tomorrow.
Any idea about the problem?
06-30-13, 04:40 PM
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Ah forgot......
Addition Blitz Boost gauge is perfectly stable at idle or low rev but shake a little when moving....
BUT
BOOST and power are perfect..no esitation...full and perfect smooth acceleration with first and second turbo (with good PSI value)
Addition Blitz Boost gauge is perfectly stable at idle or low rev but shake a little when moving....
BUT
BOOST and power are perfect..no esitation...full and perfect smooth acceleration with first and second turbo (with good PSI value)
07-01-13, 02:14 AM
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Didn't know....i buy this FD from less then 3 month XD and with a rebuild before i get the car (now i have around 500 KM on rebuild)
But yeah i'm going to check thing now...
-oil is ok
-battery is charged
-Mmmmh fuel filter-fuel pump voltage drop can give this problem????
But yeah i'm going to check thing now...
-oil is ok
-battery is charged
-Mmmmh fuel filter-fuel pump voltage drop can give this problem????
07-01-13, 04:39 AM
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Here a vid of rough idle and boost gauge shaking a little
BTW when car boost i have no boost problem and no power problem....
Like I say fresh rebuild on this car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umEbB...ature=youtu.be
BTW when car boost i have no boost problem and no power problem....
Like I say fresh rebuild on this car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umEbB...ature=youtu.be
Last edited by Evil_Sephiroth; 07-01-13 at 04:47 AM.
07-01-13, 09:39 AM
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Oil pressure gauge you mean the stock one on the dash?
Yes and continue to work.....needle in the halp and I have ad additional temp manometer...that "tell" compatible temperature with the stock (and crappy" one)
or you mean the turbo boost gauge that i filmed?
Boost gauge work too before the rough idle problem (then it worked perfect all the morning and start to shake only when i tried to turn on the car)
Ah during driving when i have no boost needle is still...and start to shake only when i ask boost.....but shake in the correct zone of pressure (and no power problem)
Yes and continue to work.....needle in the halp and I have ad additional temp manometer...that "tell" compatible temperature with the stock (and crappy" one)
or you mean the turbo boost gauge that i filmed?
Boost gauge work too before the rough idle problem (then it worked perfect all the morning and start to shake only when i tried to turn on the car)
Ah during driving when i have no boost needle is still...and start to shake only when i ask boost.....but shake in the correct zone of pressure (and no power problem)
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07-01-13, 12:02 PM
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Actually i can't remove the engine then i check the visible hoses (and the one i see after removing throttle body....
And i check the rat nest/black box
And i check the rat nest/black box
07-02-13, 11:39 AM
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Ok i just done a sound compression system with EGI fuse of and fuel pump off....
I can't really count number of pulse...they are too rapid...but there is a continuous stream of Pshhhh-Pshhhh-Pshhhh-Pshhhh all with the same sound....
I can't really count number of pulse...they are too rapid...but there is a continuous stream of Pshhhh-Pshhhh-Pshhhh-Pshhhh all with the same sound....
07-02-13, 12:04 PM
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Rough idle - Have you checked your (IAC) idle air control valve? Carbon gets them sticky and needs to get cleaned out. So even if it's calibrated, it may not be openning and closing correctly or even unplugged.
PowerFC - Could you have accidentally changed or messed with the map?
Map Sensor - Check if it got unplugged.
PowerFC - Could you have accidentally changed or messed with the map?
Map Sensor - Check if it got unplugged.
07-02-13, 12:58 PM
#13
see if you can find a shop to do a proper compression test.
unfortunately it sounds like the compression is uneven due to the sound and erratic vacuum. you could try checking the map sensor and replacing all the plugs but if they do not cure it i would be looking deeper into the engine for the problem.
unfortunately it sounds like the compression is uneven due to the sound and erratic vacuum. you could try checking the map sensor and replacing all the plugs but if they do not cure it i would be looking deeper into the engine for the problem.
07-02-13, 04:01 PM
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Rough idle - Have you checked your (IAC) idle air control valve? Carbon gets them sticky and needs to get cleaned out. So even if it's calibrated, it may not be openning and closing correctly or even unplugged.
PowerFC - Could you have accidentally changed or messed with the map?
Map Sensor - Check if it got unplugged.
PowerFC - Could you have accidentally changed or messed with the map?
Map Sensor - Check if it got unplugged.
Power FC--->NONE I have stock JDM ECU
Map sensor..plugged
see if you can find a shop to do a proper compression test.
unfortunately it sounds like the compression is uneven due to the sound and erratic vacuum. you could try checking the map sensor and replacing all the plugs but if they do not cure it i would be looking deeper into the engine for the problem.
unfortunately it sounds like the compression is uneven due to the sound and erratic vacuum. you could try checking the map sensor and replacing all the plugs but if they do not cure it i would be looking deeper into the engine for the problem.
And car is fresh rebuild from 600 KM ok that all can be....but i don't think a rebuild can last this short.....
Tomorrow I try new plug and new ignition coil+ cable
07-02-13, 05:31 PM
#15
a rebuilt engine is no guarantee that it will have good compression even 10 miles down the road.
the poor man's compression test only works if you basically have a dead rotor, what you have sounds like a damaged seal which results in 2 moderate compression pulses and 1 full one, not easy to catch by ear.
if you want to remove the EGI fuse and take a video of the engine sound during cranking with the plugs in i could probably tell you if it sounds like the engine or not. sound quality must be clear though.
the poor man's compression test only works if you basically have a dead rotor, what you have sounds like a damaged seal which results in 2 moderate compression pulses and 1 full one, not easy to catch by ear.
if you want to remove the EGI fuse and take a video of the engine sound during cranking with the plugs in i could probably tell you if it sounds like the engine or not. sound quality must be clear though.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 07-02-13 at 05:35 PM.
07-03-13, 02:38 PM
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I have plenty of experience with failed rebuilds with backwards seals, used parts when I paid for new and engines not lasting 2k miles as a result. Your engine would shake like a washing machine that was out of balance if one rotor was blown. You would have no power at all. You could floor it and barely move.
07-03-13, 04:26 PM
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The fact is that if i overtake 1000 rpm i have no problem at all. I can drive very smoot with perfect boost and power.
Only if i release gas i have rough idle and stalling.
For example if at stop i keep gas pressed i have no problem.
Only if i release gas i have rough idle and stalling.
For example if at stop i keep gas pressed i have no problem.
07-04-13, 05:29 AM
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Spark plug mounted again....
car started without problem and turbo gauge shake a lot less....
no problem is i stay at 1000 rpm.....little rough at 750 rpm and less
car started without problem and turbo gauge shake a lot less....
no problem is i stay at 1000 rpm.....little rough at 750 rpm and less
07-04-13, 08:19 AM
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Here's the location of the IAC.
https://www.google.com/search?q=fd3s...v06KoQXsnjM%3A
If its running better since you've installed the spark plugs, I would check your ignition system (plug wire, igniter, grounds, etc.).
Also agree with dvst8. Do routine maintenance so you know exactly the last time maintenance was performed and gauge the condition of the vehicle.
https://www.google.com/search?q=fd3s...v06KoQXsnjM%3A
If its running better since you've installed the spark plugs, I would check your ignition system (plug wire, igniter, grounds, etc.).
Also agree with dvst8. Do routine maintenance so you know exactly the last time maintenance was performed and gauge the condition of the vehicle.
07-06-13, 09:43 AM
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Completly new spark plug istalled.....NO Smoke at all.....
Boost gauge needle now shake only a little under 1000 rpm...perfect steady over this rpm....
If I press a little the gas around 1400-1500 rpm every 2-3 sec i "feel" a little hesitation.....
I can't feel this hesitation if I drive around 1500 rmp, only when car not moving and not over 2000 rpm
Again, during driving with gear engaged no problem at all....
Boost gauge needle now shake only a little under 1000 rpm...perfect steady over this rpm....
If I press a little the gas around 1400-1500 rpm every 2-3 sec i "feel" a little hesitation.....
I can't feel this hesitation if I drive around 1500 rmp, only when car not moving and not over 2000 rpm
Again, during driving with gear engaged no problem at all....
07-06-13, 12:21 PM
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Idle adjustment screw, only because its super easy. Your car is to full temp when it does this correct?
Edit: New plug wires. Check grounds.
Edit: New plug wires. Check grounds.
Last edited by blkops; 07-06-13 at 12:23 PM.
07-06-13, 12:29 PM
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Yeah no problem when it's cold....when car warm a little (around 80 C on additional temp manometer and half way on stock one) minimum went down and car stall if i don't press a little the gas.
Grounds are ok...no strange reading and i have Splitfire grounding too
Plug wires are old but i tested wires and i don't read problem on multimeter
Grounds are ok...no strange reading and i have Splitfire grounding too
Plug wires are old but i tested wires and i don't read problem on multimeter