I just got my intake stuff back from RotaryResurrection ( a forum member) and they look great. Color is "black chrome" for the intake stuff and "mirror blue" for the pulley. Enjoy.

I know I am very pleased. Anyone else looking for PC work please contact RotaryResurrection and you will get both a VERY good price and fast turnaround time. Kevin was excellent to deal with, very professional.

I'm looking for more stuff to send him right now. LOL.

 

Nice. I never heard of black chrome before.

 

that loks great get some more pics after install.

 

very cool

 

is that stuff heat resistant? like ceramic coatings?

 

nice, ill be giving him a call next week!

 

Only in the sense that it is durable. It is not a heat shield.

 

i bought a motorbike exhaust that the workshop did this too.. it didnt last very long.

 

Powder coat has no place on exhaust components. Youre thinking of a ceramic coat.

 

Yes, this coating is for looks and ease of cleaning ONLY, and has absolutely no heat containment/rejection value.

Can we maybe move this thread to the feedback section?

 

Looks great.

 

black chrome looks even better in person

 

So just a question to think about the spindle for the crank angle sensor isnt it magnetic? Wont the coating mess with it a little? If i was you i would at least sand down the pick up. Just my observation parts look good though.

Chris

 

There is no way paint, powder coat or just about any other finish you could apply would change the laws of magnetism.

 

No, I've done the trigger wheels before and the PC doesnt seem to interfere with it. If it did for some reason, you could just sand/strip the backside.

 

Not saying its properties arent there but it might affect the intensity of it. Its not a very high powered magnet to start with it is just my opinion honestly i would rather have piece of mind then worry about a small portion exposed and not matching. You wouldnt even be able to tell that you sanded the paint off that small probe anyways its not very visible.

Chris

 

Maybe it's just me but the UIM looks a bit rough....unless the UIM had those defects to begin with....I would have thought the finish would have been a bit more uniform.
I have a few parts getting coated black chrome also, which should be done hopefully tomorrow...Can't wait to see what they look like.

-Dan

 

As i was pointing out to a friend...the rough cast parts such as UIM, turbo charge and intake pipe, etc. are still rough after the coating. Whereas the perfectly smooth pieces such as the IC piping and elbow, are perfectly smooth after the coating. Any casting marks or defects on parts coated will still be visible, unless you pay your coater extra and specifically request that they grind down said rough spots...not something I am interested in doing.

 

Nah, those pieces are rough as hell to start like RR said. I painted mine and even though I had enough clear on to make it smooth, you can still see the pits and specs through the paint. I wasn't about to ******* spend hours smoothing it out though.

 

Magnetism has nothing to do with it, they are Hall-Effect sensors.

 

The tiny bubbles that you see (particularly visible in the LIM in the first picture) are due to outgassing. This often happens when powdercoating cast aluminum parts.

Pockets of gas can get trapped in the molten aluminum during the casting process, when the parts are created from the factory. The process of powdercoating requires heating the metal part which often releases some of these gas pockets that are near the surface. This results in little "bubbles" and imperfections in the powdered surface.

Certain cast parts are more prone to outgassing than others. On the FD, the LIM and waterpump housing are particularly susceptible. There are methods to help prevent outgassing when powdercoating, including preheating the parts prior to applying the powder, and using more expensive anti-outgassing powders. But even these methods don't eliminate it completely.

-Rob

 

Apparently the best method to completely eliminate it is a bath in a special cleaner that turns out to be pretty expensive. I sandblast, then clean with prep/paint cleaner, then preheat for 20 minutes (or more, if a very thick part like a wheel or manifold) then coat, then cure.

Even if you account for outgassing, you will never get around the rough factory castings unless you first get the part ground smooth (polished) which would kinda defeat the purpose of said coating (since your part would then be polished).