3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
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Old 03-10-08, 01:03 AM
  #26  
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I dont know what this guy's problem is? I myself and a couple of others posted here to try and help this guy and he did nothing but slam what we said and be negative about any suggestions. First he posted photos that you could not really see what he was talking about, then he did nothing but bitch, people were only trying to help man!
You could have replied like "thanks for your input but its not the help I was looking for" or something but instead you asked one guy if he had ever rebuilt an engine before, when you sound like you dont even know what your on about in the first place and I fully doubt you have ever built an engine or even seen one get built!

You asked for input from people who have built 10 or more engines, just because someone has built 10 engines, does NOT make them a good builder or know wtf they are talking about or doing. So instead of flaming everyone that does not answer your question in the way you want it answered, why dont you first, contact the company that built the engine and the person you purchased the engine off and try and get an outcome from that??
You wont do yourself any favours by trying to shoot down people who could give you valuable help in the future.
Try to be nice instead of sounding like a dick and you may get a better responce. I know it can be frustrating a: getting parts you may not be totally sure of or happy about and b: people not giving you the direct answers you are looking for but at least have some decency and reply to people in a civil manner or you wont get the help you are looking for.

Ahh thats better, I feel better now.
Old 03-10-08, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by BADSVN2000
I dont know what this guy's problem is? I myself and a couple of others posted here to try and help this guy and he did nothing but slam what we said and be negative about any suggestions. First he posted photos that you could not really see what he was talking about, then he did nothing but bitch, people were only trying to help man!
You could have replied like "thanks for your input but its not the help I was looking for" or something but instead you asked one guy if he had ever rebuilt an engine before, when you sound like you dont even know what your on about in the first place and I fully doubt you have ever built an engine or even seen one get built!

You asked for input from people who have built 10 or more engines, just because someone has built 10 engines, does NOT make them a good builder or know wtf they are talking about or doing. So instead of flaming everyone that does not answer your question in the way you want it answered, why dont you first, contact the company that built the engine and the person you purchased the engine off and try and get an outcome from that??
You wont do yourself any favours by trying to shoot down people who could give you valuable help in the future.
Try to be nice instead of sounding like a dick and you may get a better responce. I know it can be frustrating a: getting parts you may not be totally sure of or happy about and b: people not giving you the direct answers you are looking for but at least have some decency and reply to people in a civil manner or you wont get the help you are looking for.

Ahh thats better, I feel better now.
Please reread this thread and my reply to you. Not once did I slam you for you views on this matter. I will admit that I got frustrated. Yes, frustrated that some of you kept on telling me that it was a normal rotor. It is not.

I did state in the beginning of the thread that I only wanted opinion of an experience engine builder. 10 or more seem like a good number that I pulled out of my ***. I didn't mean to disrespect anyone views, just wanted to the most accurate view possible.

I also did not mention the seller name because, I believe that he is a straight forward kind of person. Kris has been really cool about using Safefunds escrow service, shipping it, and answered all of my questions. I do believe that I'm a good judge of character.

Hope that the air has been clear on this thread, as this thread was not meant to inflame, point fingers, accuse, or disrespect anybody.

Thank you, Jay
Old 03-10-08, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by T2 Tsunami
I still say this is a standard rotor, like this one
http://www.3rotor.com/images/fc_rx7_...a_3rotor_4.jpg
OK, I must of pissed of T2. Sorry
Old 03-10-08, 02:26 AM
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Thanks alot Jay for clearing things up, I can totally understand your frustrations as I have had many problems with mine (currently having to replace the right front chassis rail), but I have managed to sort all of them out myself thanks to this site, friends and my manual. Every problem has a solution and I am sure you will find yours
I hope you find a solution to the problem, I really do and I am sorry I could not have been more help as I have not seen his damage before. I do believe that if the engine builder is a reputable one, he or she would not have fitted the rotor if it was not within spec.
Old 03-10-08, 06:53 AM
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We see this on both 2mm and 3mm engines. We would not reuse rotors that are dented, gouged or have any other type of damage when we are rebuilding an engine. If this happened during the current build there may be other problems.

If you have the money, time, and ability then rebuild the engine prior to installation, this will give you the piece of mind that if anything goes wrong down the road you did not cut corners from the beginning.

If you do not have the budget for rebuilding the engine then you could install it and very likely the engine will last a long time, if this is the only internal defect.

It is very difficult to capture the dents in pics here is a link showing dented rotors for the people that do not understand what jetlag is talking about. At the bottom : http://mazdatrix.com/faq/boost.htm
Old 03-10-08, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Jetlag
OK, I must of pissed of T2. Sorry
No problem, I'm curious as to how far off your compression between chambers would be....and if that would effect your idle. keep us posted.
Old 03-10-08, 02:28 PM
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Well, I've seen a hayes motor that had a 9.4 and a 9.7 CR rotor in it, and it idled and drove normally with minimal vibration (due to different rotor weights/balance since they are from different series) so this would be a MINUTE change in compression ratio and no change in driveability. We are talking 8.95:1 versus 9.0:1.

For that matter, compression ratios in 88 and earlier engines varied somewhat to begin with, due to the mass production casting process. This is why mazda changed in 89 to machined compression dishes, for more accurate compression ratios between faces and rotors. But, the 88 and earlier engines ran just as well.
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