Baby Mazda

what kind of costs would i be looking at yearly if i got me a Rex'y

lets just say i got one thats just had a recent engine rebuild, and i did 10k miles in a year

what kind of dent would that put in my bank account

and what are the most likely things to go wrong ( other than apex seals )

95R2-89TII Ground Zero

A lot. Hoses, Turbos, Thermostat, Radiator, Exhaust, all need to be replaced and upgraded as a simple reliability mod. Basically the BPU is the reliability mod for the 7.

Baby Mazda

radiator needs constant replacement ?

and the exhaust!?!? what about a blitz núr spec ?

and exactly how quickly does this thing eat turbos ?


and what is BPU ?

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

If you plan on upgrading it it will be a lot, I am at about $8,000 and I'm not on the single turbo yet...but if you plan to keep it fairly stock initial cost will be for reliability like radiator, downpipe and catback, after that you should not be spending too much money unless your car has a temper...

95R2-89TII Ground Zero

This is what I was saying. The stock radiator is not great, and the plastic end tanks will eventually wear out. And everyone knows that the the biggest enemy of the 7 is heat.

apex_sideway

I've had my 7 for about two months now and i have spent about $1,500.00 (DP, RB exhaust, AST, Floor Jack, Jack Stands, Efini Y-pipe, etc.) on parts, tools, and upgrades. My turbo coolant lines are starting to leak so that's like $15 bucks. I'm taking my car down to Pettit in Oct. to get my vaccum lines done ($350.00) so it's a money pit. I love driving the car though . . . it has a fun factor most other cars don't have.

moehler

iTrader: (12)

Not including gas, I'd say around 1-3k a year depending on the magnitude of the problems that can arise. If you decide to mod the car, then all bets are off... you bank account will be empty before you know it .

Baby Mazda

whats the performance like with std power ( 255bhp 240ft/lb tourqe ) ?


given the fact that all these things have to be replaced/upgraded..

would it be better to buy a cheaper one thats just been rebuilt ad proceed to replace/upgrade everything b4 going out properly in it

or get a silly expensive one and still have to replace all those things ?

Dan Stevenson

In the 4 1/2 years I have owned my car, I have spent a total of $2k on maintenance (30K miles). My car is almost completely stock. Costs can vary drastically between people. I just have been lucky.

Also, there is a a good Rotary shop up near Liverpool area where I had my car worked on.

Baby Mazda

30k in 4 & 1/2 years...

so you dont drive it much then ?

Dan Stevenson

I have a daily beater and my commute to work has been less than 8 miles each way for the last 3 years.

30K with a smile on my face everytime I drive it and a 1st place for the season trophy in SCCA Super Stock class. The car is amazing to drive.

If you can find a shop close to you that has the knowledge to work on the car and a couple extra $1000 (or Pounds) to have for maintenance, it is worth it.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The closer you keep it to stock, the less problems you'll have.

Baby Mazda

i would want a max of 300bhp..

the rx7 appeals to me because of the power/tourqe and the weight..

its the forumula for an amsolute screamer of a drivers car.

the supra comes in at over 1600kg's

and the sky slightly less at over 1500


the main reason i got the 323 gtx is because of the potential it has for handling rather than ***** out power.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That's great, but pushing anything past stock performance is going to cause problems on any car. The cars are only good for what they are designed to do. The FD was designed to run at 255bhp. Pushing it past that will introduce problems. How many or what kind of problems? Well, that really depends on how the car is driven.

Of course doing things like road courses, AutoX or other events that push the car hard will cause a lot more wear on the car and it's components. Daily driving around the city isn't likely to put the same amount of stress on the car, thus having less problems. It's really not the amount of miles you put on the car, but the type of miles. That will determine how often you'll deal with breaking parts.

Baby Mazda

im more interested in rast-road use...

but i see where your comming from with regards to the cars history...

damn.. why is the rex 8 so f'ugly and turboless

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Well, the RX8, is just that an '8' not a '7'. It's not designed to "replace" the RX7. It's just another rotary power vehicle.

importrx7

Why must you call them rex's
And its not cheap to run them

Baby Mazda

i know their not cheap to run... *and thats just fuel*

dunno why i call it a "rex" lol must be slightly annoying to ya...


what would an 7 with a blown/non-functional engine cost ?

just thinking it may be better for me to get one like that, and then source myself a new engine at a later date ( talking in about 4-5 yrs time here ).

unless of course a new rx7 is on the boards ?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Usually you'll see them for about $7-9000 USD depending on the rest of the car.

The other thing is that you may need more than just an engine rebuild. Turbos could be damaged, other broken or non-functioning components... etc.. Basically, thinking that you can just get a rebuild for $3000 USD, slap it in the car and drive off into the sunset ain't going to work.


Well, there are always rumors. Until you see Mazda announce it, consider it nothing.

Baby Mazda

so best to look for a ultra low mileage import.....

sweet

well once i got my degree ill be after my 7 quicktime

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Apex, weren't you the one starting with the DIY mechanic stuff? Hows that going?

And for the original question:
this car has many maintenance items that _tend_ to go bad between 50k and 100k. Bushings, door handles, coolant hoses, vacuum hoses, pre-cat (downpipe), radiator, ast, and a few more. Plus regular oil changes and fuel filter changes. A cat-back is not a reliability mod.

If the relibility mods were all done already, you might not spend much per year. Maybe under $500 if it's just tires and stuff. Doing But count on 15mpg (convert miles and gallons to km and litres) - that can hurt more. If you do the reliability mods yourself, it's about $2k.

A last option is to buy a boost and water temp gauge, and learn the signs of failure of these parts. Then you're still pretty safe, but if your radiator bursts you'll be stuck for a while. But you need to know that you have to cut the engine immediately and have it fixed before you drive it again.

The last thing to watch is the motors or turbos going bad. Often happens between 50k and 100k. Those are pricey fixes, but having the car inspected by a good rotary mechanic and having the compression tested is good insurance if the engine is at that age.

Dave

PhoenixDownVII

The forums quickly becomes a broken record with these types of questions.

But since most of your questions have been answered, let me suggest one thing: Drive a stock Rx7.

You say you want 300bhp, but I bet it's just for number's sake. No two cars act the same at the same HP. An Rx7 at 255hp is different then a honda at 255 which is different than a (NA) Supra at 255.

I love the "Near" Stock power I have, there is no reason for me to go from 0-death (or ticket) any better. The way the FD is set up is EXACTLY how I pictured "my" sports car to be.

I have nothing to prove to anyone, either. There's a 800rwhp Supra in town? Good for him. I love my car either case