I want to run larger gauge wiring to the twin pumps I'll be running in my tank, and I'm having trouble finding a "waterproof" bulkhead terminal or fitting that would allow bypassing the existing wiring and still maintain the sealing of the tank. Anyone?

 

I drilled mine, used a grommet, and then proceeded to try everything I could think of to hold a seal. I have a seal now that stops liquid gas from spewing out but it still leaks vapor and everytime I get into my car I smell gas fumes for the 30 seconds. Dont try it my way....

In fact I am questioning my whole two pump plan simply because of the wiring.

But the one piece of good news is I was worried about not knowing if one pump failed and going lean but without a doubt I can tell if one pump is not working by the pressure and the way the car runs (I disconnected one to see).

Oh and I have great respect for you asking before you did anything - everytime I go off on my trailblazing ideas I promise myself next time I will do something that someone else has already figured out instead. But somehow I forget that and find myself in uncharted territory over and over again.


Shawn

 

Well, I figured someone might know of a mil-spec connector or something that I haven't been able to find.

I know there has to be a way to do it. I really don't want to run an external pump because of noise and having to have a sump welded into the tank to draw from, although I suppose that I could try to use a fixed pick-up in the tank, sort of like an oil pump, if I had to.

I think in the end it's just going to turn out to be easier to run a big single external pump... but I'm not ready to give up yet.

 

I'm sure there are mil spec connectors, but there's an easy way to do what you wish.

Just put "eye" terminals on the wires and use a bolt through the metal cover for each wire. Drill the holes larger than your bolt to fit a suitable flanged plastic grommet from each side to ensure the bolts don't short to the cover.

I'm told by Strelnieks that two part epoxy is gas proof as that's what he used to hold the in tank sump he built in place. You could use that under the grommets to be certain of a fuel and vapor proof seal.

 

Thanks for the tip Damon, but do you really think I'd do something like that on my car when I could totally over-engineer a more complicated solution?

 

Gimme your credit card and I will find you the most perfect suitable connector this afternoon

 

So what did you come up with jimlab?

 

Nothing yet.

 

Hey Jimbo,

Ive seen then, but I can't currently remember where (I either Waytek or Digikey.) I'm sure I'll come across them again within this month. Will reply back this thread once I do.

BTW, I've seen Eric's work first-hand, and I'm not so sure I'd trust... ;-)

 

You could try and e-mail the guys from the www.evil7.com website. They used Mil-spec connectors, they have pics on the website.

Marc

 

Thanks for the tip Marc, I e-mailed them to see if they knew anything. Of course, there are two types of bulkheads... the bulkhead of a fuel cell and the "bulkhead" commonly known as a firewall. The connectors shown on their site are for passing electrical connections through a firewall, so they're not necessarily fuel approved or "water tight", but we'll see what they know.

Thanks!

 

Looks like Deutsch manufactures what I'm looking for, but I'm told that the stainless "hermetic receptacles" go for about $200 each...

Here's some information for anyone who is interested...
http://www.deutscheis.com/mil_c_26482_ii_100501.pdf

At this point, I'm wondering if running the wire through a standard -10 or -12 AN bulkhead fitting and then filling the remaining space with some sort of fuel-resistant sealant or epoxy wouldn't be the easiest/least expensive method.

 

i just bought another assembly to play with. it should be here next week so i am interested in what you come up with. i thought of doing the bulkhead/sealant thing too. the sealant i found to be best was a flexible fuel resistant type - i am not at home now so i cant tell you the exact name. the thing i would suggest is doing is getting a bulkhead with 90 degree in it, run the wire through,tape the elbow side, and fill from the other side. once it dries install with elbow in tank. (the elbow will help secure the sealant plug from pulling through as it might with straight fitting). the other thing i found to be important is the vapor management. i had capped the entire vapor system and the pressures created in the tank were too much for my crappy seals. so i made a homemade charcoal canister (since i threw the original away) and routed the vapor through it.

i am sure i could go on and on, but i am tired of typing (tapping) on my pocket pc and my meeting is about over.

shawn

 

I kept my charcoal canister and vapor lines because I knew what they were for.

I planned on using a 90-degree fitting for that very reason. Great minds think alike, huh?