Reviving a forgotten 95 FD from a field...
09-16-11, 10:27 PM
#26
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put a new map sensor in still the same problem. just sitting at iddle i can slowly press the peddle and go all the way through the rpms.... but if i press the peddle more than a 1/4 of the way down it spudders and wants to die .....
ill check the hose i suppose lol
ill check the hose i suppose lol
09-16-11, 10:37 PM
#27
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ok replaced the map sensor . still have the same problem .... ( i replaced it with a used one tho that i got from a local fd shop))
if i very very slowly press the gas peddle down i can go through the rpms
if i press more than a 1/4 down it spudders and wants to die
im getting frustrated guys
just to make sure to reset it you disconnect the battery for 20 seconds then reconnect it with the brake peddle depressed ???? correct?
or is there a different way to reset the ecu?
if i very very slowly press the gas peddle down i can go through the rpms
if i press more than a 1/4 down it spudders and wants to die
im getting frustrated guys
just to make sure to reset it you disconnect the battery for 20 seconds then reconnect it with the brake peddle depressed ???? correct?
or is there a different way to reset the ecu?
09-17-11, 12:53 AM
#35
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Ok, Im not very familiar with rotaries, but when we have that problem in a lot of our other track cars, its usually the TPS(throttle position sensor), does the FD system have a similar unit?
09-17-11, 01:05 AM
#36
Dude, it sat in a field for 11 years.
All the rubber vacuum lines are probably shot.
It may have been parked because the motor blew.
Any fuel in the lines when it was parked is now varnish.
The chances of you resurrecting an fd out of a field, and it just up and running are.....daunting.
Don't get frustrated. Take your time. This is a rescue mission.
All the rubber vacuum lines are probably shot.
It may have been parked because the motor blew.
Any fuel in the lines when it was parked is now varnish.
The chances of you resurrecting an fd out of a field, and it just up and running are.....daunting.
Don't get frustrated. Take your time. This is a rescue mission.
09-17-11, 03:15 AM
#38
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You probably already know this but hey, maybe not. The tps requires an adjustment to work properly. Did you adjust the new one or just slap it on there? Have you tested the tps with a multimeter? It's pretty easy. Actually really easy. Do this and post values from the test. Long shot here but have you checked the air filter?
What part of Seattle are you from? I lived there from 06 to 09. Nice area.
What part of Seattle are you from? I lived there from 06 to 09. Nice area.
Last edited by OKI92FD; 09-17-11 at 03:19 AM.
09-17-11, 10:47 AM
#40
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Dude, it sat in a field for 11 years.
All the rubber vacuum lines are probably shot.
It may have been parked because the motor blew.
Any fuel in the lines when it was parked is now varnish.
The chances of you resurrecting an fd out of a field, and it just up and running are.....daunting.
Don't get frustrated. Take your time. This is a rescue mission.
All the rubber vacuum lines are probably shot.
It may have been parked because the motor blew.
Any fuel in the lines when it was parked is now varnish.
The chances of you resurrecting an fd out of a field, and it just up and running are.....daunting.
Don't get frustrated. Take your time. This is a rescue mission.
I agree, I think before you spend any more time and money, I suggest you do a compression test. It's free and easy. Follow this link as a reference
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html
09-17-11, 11:01 AM
#41
Saw your post about calling the dealer and them not knowing what that part was. I suggest call Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda, he knows the FD and usually has parts in stock and you get a discount. Don't get frustrated on the FD once you get it running right it will be worth it. The forum is great lots of good people and good info be patient and do it right.
I almost forgot Ray's number 703-490-8170. The dealrship is on the east coast so remember the time difference and just call and ask for Ray.
I almost forgot Ray's number 703-490-8170. The dealrship is on the east coast so remember the time difference and just call and ask for Ray.
09-17-11, 04:38 PM
#42
well by MAP sensor i didn't mean it was the actual sensor failed, they rarely fail.
but the line tends to pop off, the filter screen could be blocked not allowing flow through the line and last but not least... the LF wheel has a tendency when near bottoming out to rub on the front main harness which has the MAP sensor wiring in it. look in the driver's front fender well for any munched wiring.
since it's throwing a code, i'm leaning more towards the latter, which will ground out the sensor wiring and toss the code. otherwise be sure you reset the codes by disconnecting the battery after swapping the map sensor, the code just doesn't automatically clear itself on these computers like the earlier models did.
but the line tends to pop off, the filter screen could be blocked not allowing flow through the line and last but not least... the LF wheel has a tendency when near bottoming out to rub on the front main harness which has the MAP sensor wiring in it. look in the driver's front fender well for any munched wiring.
since it's throwing a code, i'm leaning more towards the latter, which will ground out the sensor wiring and toss the code. otherwise be sure you reset the codes by disconnecting the battery after swapping the map sensor, the code just doesn't automatically clear itself on these computers like the earlier models did.
09-17-11, 10:22 PM
#46
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re calibrated the tps . reset the ecu ... problem is still there
while i press on the gas it pops and spudders and wants to die... ahhhhhhhhh
any good fd shops to go get it fixed at ?????
if someone can tell me where the fuel injectors are ill try those last then im spent
while i press on the gas it pops and spudders and wants to die... ahhhhhhhhh
any good fd shops to go get it fixed at ?????
if someone can tell me where the fuel injectors are ill try those last then im spent
09-17-11, 10:51 PM
#47
The fuel injectors are buried under a lot of other items. Basically you're going to have to remove everything that is on the top of the engine. You really need a factory service manual or some photographs to go about getting to them. While you're at it if you're serious about owning and enjoying this car, you either need to replace the fuel pulsation damper or do the Banzai Racing FPD elimination. I have done it with great success as have many others. If you're going to get to the fuel injectors you will probably have to fix some or replace all of the vacuum hoses. Here is plenty of information.
Service Manuals
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/94-fsms-available-download-449950/
Vac hose replacement
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/daleclarks-guide-vacuum-lines-your-fd-904277/ Dale Clark thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/im-ready-do-full-vacuum-hose-job-need-pointers-868621/
Solenoids, actuators, and turbo tests
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-test-your-solenoids-actuators-other-turbo-stuff-802060/
Fuel pulsation damper....go to this page, click on Tech Support and you'll find lots of good stuff.
http://www.banzai-racing.com/
Service Manuals
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/94-fsms-available-download-449950/
Vac hose replacement
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/daleclarks-guide-vacuum-lines-your-fd-904277/ Dale Clark thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/im-ready-do-full-vacuum-hose-job-need-pointers-868621/
Solenoids, actuators, and turbo tests
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-test-your-solenoids-actuators-other-turbo-stuff-802060/
Fuel pulsation damper....go to this page, click on Tech Support and you'll find lots of good stuff.
http://www.banzai-racing.com/
!!!! How many miles does it have? nice find !!!!
