honestly guys does everyone use the stock fuel filter? Someone out there has to be using something else besides stock for a reason. And why is it better?????

 

I don't think that you will have any problems with worm-gear clamps for the fuel filter, without using thread-lock.

My point was simply to point out that those worm-drive clamps are not the best thing since sliced bread. For many reasons, the stock spring type clamps are better, so I leave them in place where possible.

Another reasonable alternative is a band-type clamp with a little nut and screw that tighten it down.

For your fuel filter, use whatever is easiest for you to work with. It is a pain in the butt to work with any of them in that location.

-Max

 

Cool thread! Ive been wanting to do this for awhile.

First shame on you guys for not being clear NO SMOKING while ur doing this! or else. haha


Ok for the real question.......not one person mentioned anythng about clamping shut the hoses w/ say needle nose vise grips. Can that be done? I mean I wld still go thru that whole depressurization routine but can I clamp the hoses before pulling them off the filter?


Also Im pretty sure Im leaning towards a reroute job. Can someone pass along the K&N part# and where it can be purchased?
And w/out looking it up somewhere.....does a new hose replace the hoses in the rear OR do you stick in a piece of copper tubing into both ends and just clamp it?

Any tips wld be great!
TIA!

 

I'm interested in a little more info on the relocation job as well.

 

I bought my K&N fliter here http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...999&prmenbr=76 you want the 5/16" fuel filter

I have it installed near the master cylinder, right agianst the firewall, R.R.'s site has some tips on how to do it (I didn't get as fancy as he did)...I also used some 5/16" quick-disconnect fuel couplers I got from Lockhart Phillips, so I can take the filter out of line with no tools and a minimum of leaking gas

the actual filter element inside the housing works well and has low pressure drop (good for high flow), but it does need to be cleaned fairly often, so be forewarned...the filter element in mine started to bend (get clogged up with crap) in as little as 4,000 miles...it catches alot of fine particles (keeping them out of your injectors!)

anyway, I can clean the thing so easy now that I just do it whenever I do an oil change...just backflush the filter element every 3-4 k miles with brake cleaner and you're good to go...no more climbing under the car and doing my best Richard Pryor imitation