HYDOUKEN

iTrader: (1)

Its about that time for me to change my fuel filter on my car. And I was curious about which fuel filter to go with. Is there any fuel filters out there that filter better than others? Or some fuel filters that are just plain better than stock? Any and all info will be great


Thanks,
Alex

BrianK

can't offer much advice as to what is better than what, but I will tell you that changing it out yourself is a supreme pain in the ***. It's one of those things that's worth bringing it to a dealer (or mechanic) and having them do it.

badass7

This would be the ONLY thing to let the Dealer do for you.

Tommy

Me and a friend swapped out my old fuel filter with the new one in about 15 min. The hardest part is just getting the fuel lines back onto the filter. I didnt think it was all that hard. We did have our own lift to use though

rtryrktrx7

God I spent about 2 hours under my car in the garage with a buddy of mine. We got all the lines blocked, got all but one off...Then it happened...we thought "Are we going to be able to get that last line back on??" I can barely reach it to take it off... AAARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!
I put all the **** back together and took it in. Dang I was pissed. They engineered that thing to be hard. As far as a filter to go with, I was recommended to use the factory filter. I was told that ws the one thing to keep factory. Good luck. On a side note a lift would have been nice.

Single7

Hey Alex,

If you do decide to replace your fuel filter remember to depressurize the gas tank and for the love of God wear some goggles (gasoline in the eyes isn't the best feeling in the world - not that it's ever happened to me . Good luck -- Tommy

GsrSol

Let someone else do it. It was a fun experience and all but is a pita.

DamonB

I did mine the in about an hour and a half. It should be a lot easier, but it isn't the near death experience it is described as. The trick is to remove the bolts from the bracket first, that gains you some slack in the lines so you can move them around for easier access to the clamps.

yzf-r1

iTrader: (1)

relocate the whole mess to the engine bay, only way to fly....

I use the the K&N washable (resuable) one with quick disconnect couplings....I can clean the element with no tools in about 2 minutes

dirty fuel filters are why alot of these engine run lean and blow, I'm convinced of that....everybody is so concerned about getting a fuel pump that will crank out 5,000 psi when the real problem may be a clogged filter...my stock pump works just fine, thank you

Flybye

Here ya go. I copied it from Brian's site for ya.


Mazda recommends the fuel filter to be replaced every 60,000 miles or 60 months. However, most people change it at least every 25,000 miles to be safe. Before working on components of the fuel system you need to release the fuel pressure.

1. Start the engine.
2. Remove the circuit opening relay (picture 1).
3. After the engine stalls, remove the key from the ignition.
4. Install the circuit opening relay.



The fuel filter is located above the differential (picture 2).

1. Raise the rear of the car on a lift, ramps, or jack stands.
2. Remove the undercover.
3. Remove the two bolts holding the fuel filter. I used a ratchet with a long extender and swivel on the end (picture 3).
4. Slide back the clamps holding the fuel lines on the fuel filter.
5. Carefully remove the fuel lines from the fuel filter. FUEL WILL SPILL. Use a towel to absorb any leaking fuel from the filter.
6. Replace in the order removed.

The filter is located in a hard to reach spot and space is tight. Take your time when trying to get the fuel lines off the filter. It's not hard to do, but it will take some time and patience.

Since you released the fuel pressure when changing the fuel filter, the system needs to be primed. This will avoid excessive cranking when trying to start the engine.

1. Use a jumper wire to short the F/P and GND terminals.
2. Turn the ignition ON for 10 seconds and check for fuel leaks.
3. Turn the ignition OFF and remove the jumper wire.

Start the car and have fun.
Fuel filter

[Fuel Filter]


Picture 1
[Circuit opening relay]


Picture 2 [Fuel filter diagram]


Picture 3 [Ratchet setup]


Picture 4[Diagnosis connector]

Jonesboro

I agree with most of the above comments. Replacing the fuel filter is a definite pain in the *** to do because of where the filter is located behind and above the differential, where you will be working in a very cramped space. But, for me, learning how to do the work myself is part of what ownership of an FD3S is all about. Changing the fuel filter was the first thing I did after purchasing my FD3S.

By the way, I just loosened the gas cap to release the pressure in the fuel line and did not go through the more elaborate steps outlined above. It worked fine! Just make sure to release the pressure one way or another because otherwise you will be dealing with a major fuel spill once the hoses are removed from the fuel filter.

The one point I would like to add is about the BRAND and PRICE of the fuel filter you use. The Mazda OEM fuel filter costs about $50. I have no reason to believe that there is anything special about the OEM Mazda fuel filter, so I went shopping for aftermarket brands. I found that there are many aftermarket brands of direct replacement fuel filters made for the FD3S. The problem is most auto parts stores do not stock the FD3S fuel filter because they are not a big seller, so it's not a matter of just driving down to the store to get one.

This is any example where you can really save money by shopping on the internet. I went with a direct replacement fuel filter made by Purolator (part #F54803) which I got from PartsAmerica.com for $16.99 each by ordering over the internet. In fact I went ahead and got three of the filters for a total of $50.97 because at that time PartsAmerica was offering free shipping for orders over $50. Three fuel filters for the price of one and it took only one week for them to get to my house.

shaqhammer

How do you relocate the fuel filter to the engine bay??

Flybye

You would have to put a hose in place of the filter in the back, and then purchase a small high pressure fuel filter, splice the hose before it goes into the fuel line on the engine, and install the filter there.

DK

iTrader: (5)

Awww come on, you're scaring him! It's not that hard ... or am I just that good? I good piece of advice is to replace the factory squeeze type hose clamps with the screw type hose clamps. And when putting the hoses back on, it's not really hard, and a little spray silicon goes a long way.

Tommy

DAMNIT!!

bajaman

Okay...now you all have me convinced I need to pit myself against "the fuel filter from hell....."!
This has GOT to be some sort of rite of passage deal for an FD owner.....
I did the downpipe install in about 5 hours, I think I could do another one in half that time, now that I have done it once.
So....in PITA terms, how does the fuel filter change rate next to the dp install?

Oh by the way Flybye....that was some damned nice stuff you posted, complete with pics and diagrams and all....nice!

The hardest damned thing has to be just getting UNDER the car.....surely a lift simplifies the deal by an exponential factor?

DK

iTrader: (5)

Man I make so many typos on this board ... and just this board. I don't know what gives.

Anyways, I replace most every squeeze clamp except the teeny ones with screw type because those clamp types can be a royal pain if you can't get the right angle on them with the right set of pliers and sometimes in tight fits the easiest direciton to get them on from isn't always the way to get them off. The screw type you can just aim in the direction that you can get a screwdriver (or a ratchet w/extension) in, and tighten or losen and it's the same coming or going. Plus, you can screw them down tighter! But you'll be OK Tommy with your lift, you bastard!

DavidZ

I'm in the process of relocating mine to the engine bay. Already bypassed the current filter. Now i'm trying to find a good location to mount in in the engine bay. I'm using a 300zx fuel filter. Mainly because i know it flows well and the inlet and outlet are both 5/16" (same as stock lines).

Tommy

A couple of my buddies have lifts which really comes in handy. I wanted to use it tonight but there was a broken down 5.0 with the tranny ripped out in the air already. Aaah, they are nice...lifts that is.

maxcooper

It probably isn't as big an issue on the fuel filter as it is in the engine bay, but the worm-type hose clamps tend to work loose under heat cycling. In paricular, the hose clamps buried under the air pump for the turbo coolant lines will work loose pretty quickly if you use worm-gear type clamps. I had mine come loose in that location so I added a little thread lock to hold them tight. The spring clamps don't get a lot of respect, but they function well in that they provide clamping independent of temp and tend to stay in place. For the fuel filter, I use a small Vise-Grip to pinch the clamps open and hold them in that position. A little petrolium jelly (Vaseline), oil or lubricating spray will make the hoses easier to get on.

The first time I did the fuel filter I got fuel all over myself and it took an hour and a half. Gas burns your skin (I don't mean fire, just irritation) so keep some towels handy and try to keep from getting gas dripped or sprayed on your clothes and skin. The second time took 30 minutes and I stayed dry.

-Max

Dr Wankel

I did mine in about an hour or so. I went through the whole depressurization procedure but for some reason mine still had PLENTY of pressure in them and as soon as I pulled off the first one Fuel sprayed everywhere. And all over me in the process. And let me tell you one thing fuel in your ear hurts like a ************. I had a nice throbing sensation in my ear for a few days afterward. I did put worm clamps on mine and they seem to be holding up just fine but I think I will go back there and put some thread lock on the clamps. thanks for the tip Max.

HYDOUKEN

iTrader: (1)

WOW thanks for all the great info guy. Well I think I pretty much know whats involved now in changing my fuel filter. But I still have two more questions left. I read in some of your post that I should change out the factory clamps on the fuel lines with the clamps that you use a screw driver or ratchet to tighten and loosen them...... why do I have to put thread lock? maxcooper you mentioned something about this in your post. Please clarify why I need to do this if I change out the stock clamps. And still no one has really talked about what particular brand of fuel filter I should go with..I have heard SX before but don't know if they are any good. I agree with Jonesboro, don't think that there is anything special about the mazda OEM filter. I just would like to buy the best fuel filter out there for my FD I know changing my filter is already good for it......but want to go that extra mile for my car.
Thanks for all the info guys and hope that you gurus out there can answer my last two question

Flybye

After this thread, you will become an official Fuel Filter Master

luneytune

Don't replace the factory POS.

1. Remove old filter and replace it with a barbed union (straight peice).

2. Buy about a foot of High Pressure Hose (make sure its High Pressure).

3. Mount the K&N under your Brake Booster.

4. Hook it up.

You will be much more likely to routinly clean it if its easy.

IMHO

KZ1

I hope the stock fuel filtre burns in hell, along with the differential mounts.