Replacing accelerator cable
07-03-10, 08:38 PM
#1
Replacing accelerator cable
A while back someone posted to check your accel cable as a safety tip. checked mine, looked ok except for the plastic coating around the metal sheath was cracked off in a couple spots. So got a new one and replaced today, not a bad job just one part is a pain.
All you need is 2-12mm open end wrenches. wire cutter, flash light and a long angled needle nose plier.
First remove the end of the throttle cable from the spring loaded arm on the TB by turning the arm and removing the end.
Remove the two plastic clips, they need to be squeezed on the back side, used the pliers.
Use the 2-12mm wrenches to loosen the mounting nuts that hold down the rubber gromet. Then pull out the short threaded section and then the rubber gromet will pop out.
Cut the stop end off the wire.
Go under the dash and disconnect the yellow plastic tab from the gas pedal. This should free up the cable so you can pull it through.
Remaining is the pain part- there is a plastic clip where the cable goes through the firewall. No way (for me) to push in the hold down clips (its up by the top of the gas pedal. So I used the needle nose to smush up the plastic from the inside. Eventually it got deformed enough for me to pull it out from under the hood. Dont know how you would get it out intact. Im too tall and old to fit up there...
So the new one:
Snap in the two plastic mounting clips, insert the rubber grommet. push the threaded nipple in and loosely tighten down the two 12mm nuts.
Push the cable through the firewall. Snap in the plastic clip to the firewall (only goes in one way the hole is not square).
Go into the car and snap in the yellow plastic piece.
Go back up and reconnect the other end of the cable around the TB spring loaded arm.
Make sure everything is connected and operates smoothly.
Start the car, the idle will not be correct. It most likely will be too high. Make sure the car is warmed up then - you back off the 12mm nut (passenger side one) and keep going til the idle is correct. Then tighten both 12mm nuts on each other.
Done.
All you need is 2-12mm open end wrenches. wire cutter, flash light and a long angled needle nose plier.
First remove the end of the throttle cable from the spring loaded arm on the TB by turning the arm and removing the end.
Remove the two plastic clips, they need to be squeezed on the back side, used the pliers.
Use the 2-12mm wrenches to loosen the mounting nuts that hold down the rubber gromet. Then pull out the short threaded section and then the rubber gromet will pop out.
Cut the stop end off the wire.
Go under the dash and disconnect the yellow plastic tab from the gas pedal. This should free up the cable so you can pull it through.
Remaining is the pain part- there is a plastic clip where the cable goes through the firewall. No way (for me) to push in the hold down clips (its up by the top of the gas pedal. So I used the needle nose to smush up the plastic from the inside. Eventually it got deformed enough for me to pull it out from under the hood. Dont know how you would get it out intact. Im too tall and old to fit up there...
So the new one:
Snap in the two plastic mounting clips, insert the rubber grommet. push the threaded nipple in and loosely tighten down the two 12mm nuts.
Push the cable through the firewall. Snap in the plastic clip to the firewall (only goes in one way the hole is not square).
Go into the car and snap in the yellow plastic piece.
Go back up and reconnect the other end of the cable around the TB spring loaded arm.
Make sure everything is connected and operates smoothly.
Start the car, the idle will not be correct. It most likely will be too high. Make sure the car is warmed up then - you back off the 12mm nut (passenger side one) and keep going til the idle is correct. Then tighten both 12mm nuts on each other.
Done.
07-03-10, 10:02 PM
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
You don't have to cut the cable/pull in through, you can just remove it.
Yes, you bigtime have to fight to get the plastic clip where it attaches to the firewall off. One trick I've done is just go to work on it with a screwdriver and a hammer from the inside. There's no way in hell you can get that out without destroying that clip. I think Mazda did this on purpose, though.
New accelerator cables are reasonably priced from Mazda, really dress up under the hood and many times can fix problems with binding and response on the throttle.
Dale
Yes, you bigtime have to fight to get the plastic clip where it attaches to the firewall off. One trick I've done is just go to work on it with a screwdriver and a hammer from the inside. There's no way in hell you can get that out without destroying that clip. I think Mazda did this on purpose, though.
New accelerator cables are reasonably priced from Mazda, really dress up under the hood and many times can fix problems with binding and response on the throttle.
Dale
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