Removing rear lip/diffuser ?
#1
deal with it
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Removing rear lip/diffuser ?
I ran a search for this but couldn't really find anything. I'm basically wondering if there's a write up or anything on how to take off the rear lip thing? The little black plastic piece on the bottom of the rear bumper
I saw 2 screws on the far ends but didn't see much in the middle...
Thanks
I saw 2 screws on the far ends but didn't see much in the middle...
Thanks
#2
All Spooled Up
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Over here...I can help you ! First of all you must understand that the piece is designed to come off AFTER the bumper is removed. Understanding that - However we can proceed to remove it with the bumper in place, just a little modification. Going on memory here since it been several years since I removed my last one ( and I ain't going out in the cold to double check for you
Yes, there are two or three short screws on each side of the piece. The piece has snaps that place and snap up into the bumper. Look for them. But the most challenging of all is the two studs on each side that retain the molding to the fender. You remove one nut on each side and separate the flanges there that sandwich the mold and try to slip the plastic mold up over the top of the stud. It is tough, but I found it far easier to simply slice the plastic molding where the stud protrudes thru it and slip it off. Look at it and you'll see what I mean. It re-installs easily and retains with a SS washer.
I can show you two currently on the ground and the bumpers still on
LAter
Yes, there are two or three short screws on each side of the piece. The piece has snaps that place and snap up into the bumper. Look for them. But the most challenging of all is the two studs on each side that retain the molding to the fender. You remove one nut on each side and separate the flanges there that sandwich the mold and try to slip the plastic mold up over the top of the stud. It is tough, but I found it far easier to simply slice the plastic molding where the stud protrudes thru it and slip it off. Look at it and you'll see what I mean. It re-installs easily and retains with a SS washer.
I can show you two currently on the ground and the bumpers still on
LAter
#3
deal with it
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Thanks for the help, I haven't actually really gotten a chance to look at it yet but I will today.
I heard there's like an upside down screw or something?
If you have a picture of an uninstalled one so I can see exactly where all the holes are, that'd be great
I heard there's like an upside down screw or something?
If you have a picture of an uninstalled one so I can see exactly where all the holes are, that'd be great
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#9
Derek
iTrader: (2)
Mine got melted by the exhaust and started falling off on the right side. I guess the plastic was getting really old and brittle too. After a month or so of looking like **** and not having any time to properly remove it, I finally got pissed off and just ripped it off. No damage to the rear bumper or anything but the screws that held it in place are still there. To properly remove it all you have to do is just remove the screws that hold it in place then compress the plastic part of the lip that is in the main bumper and pull down.
#13
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
You're better off removing the rear bumper to do this job. It's a pain but there isn't a good shortcut.
Generally you remove the tail lights and remove the plastic panel at the back of the hatch. You will probably have to partially detach the two side panels in the hatch.
Remove the bolts along the top of the bumper and get your arm down into the well on either side to remove the 3 nuts on each side holding the bumper in. I think there may be another fastener on the side that you get to from underneath, it's been a while.
Those inside bolts are the WORST, you don't have good access and it's cramped in there. You're working by feel. 1/4" drive tools and fine-tooth ratchets help out here.
Dale
Generally you remove the tail lights and remove the plastic panel at the back of the hatch. You will probably have to partially detach the two side panels in the hatch.
Remove the bolts along the top of the bumper and get your arm down into the well on either side to remove the 3 nuts on each side holding the bumper in. I think there may be another fastener on the side that you get to from underneath, it's been a while.
Those inside bolts are the WORST, you don't have good access and it's cramped in there. You're working by feel. 1/4" drive tools and fine-tooth ratchets help out here.
Dale
#15
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
That plastic strip has 2 tabs that loop around the studs that hold the bumper on. I'm 90% sure but now I'm starting to doubt myself .
Regardless, take it off right and don't just cut it off or something!
Dale
Regardless, take it off right and don't just cut it off or something!
Dale
#17
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
@___@ you guys fail at searching the web.
I just looked for "RX-7 rear bumper" on Ebay and got great detailed pics of how the lower valence mounts to the rear bumper.
There are seven screws that screw the lower valence to the rear bumper through clip nuts.
The outermost Left and Right and all three middle screw heads are positioned with the heads pointed down toward the pavement when mounted (easy to get to). The Left and Right 2nd to outermost screws are positioned with the heads pointed up away from the pavement when mounted (hard to get to).
There are eight plastic tabs on the lower valence that slide into slots in the rear bumper to position it correctly.
I just looked for "RX-7 rear bumper" on Ebay and got great detailed pics of how the lower valence mounts to the rear bumper.
There are seven screws that screw the lower valence to the rear bumper through clip nuts.
The outermost Left and Right and all three middle screw heads are positioned with the heads pointed down toward the pavement when mounted (easy to get to). The Left and Right 2nd to outermost screws are positioned with the heads pointed up away from the pavement when mounted (hard to get to).
There are eight plastic tabs on the lower valence that slide into slots in the rear bumper to position it correctly.
#18
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
You can see the black plastic of the valence going around that bottom stud on each side. That's the kicker right there.
Just take the whole bumper off to do it
Dale
Just take the whole bumper off to do it
Dale
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BLUE TII (05-02-18)
#20
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
You could fight trying to remove a stud under the car with limited access for 15 minutes or pull the bumper off and have easy access to everything .
Dale
Dale
#23
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
DaleClark
You could fight trying to remove a stud under the car with limited access for 15 minutes or pull the bumper off and have easy access to everything .
BlackEuropa
I just cut the valance mount tab on one side of it's hole and opened it up enough to push it around the stud. Once you tighten the nut, the tab is locked in.
See, its ideas like this that get me to do things the wrong way.
#24
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
It's also possible that you would spend a half hour under the car trying to fight to get to the rusty screws and get them all off. Or have the bumper off with easy access to everything.
Also, for those screws, JIS screwdriver would be a HUGE help. I'm constantly amazed with how well that joker works.
Dale
Also, for those screws, JIS screwdriver would be a HUGE help. I'm constantly amazed with how well that joker works.
Dale