3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002) 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.
Sponsored by:

Removing rear lip/diffuser ?

Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:44 AM
  #1  
Farkel Jr.'s Avatar
Thread Starter
deal with it
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
From: California
Removing rear lip/diffuser ?

I ran a search for this but couldn't really find anything. I'm basically wondering if there's a write up or anything on how to take off the rear lip thing? The little black plastic piece on the bottom of the rear bumper

I saw 2 screws on the far ends but didn't see much in the middle...

Thanks
Reply
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 11:52 AM
  #2  
badddrx7's Avatar
All Spooled Up
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 3
From: Ironton,ohio
Over here...I can help you ! First of all you must understand that the piece is designed to come off AFTER the bumper is removed. Understanding that - However we can proceed to remove it with the bumper in place, just a little modification. Going on memory here since it been several years since I removed my last one ( and I ain't going out in the cold to double check for you

Yes, there are two or three short screws on each side of the piece. The piece has snaps that place and snap up into the bumper. Look for them. But the most challenging of all is the two studs on each side that retain the molding to the fender. You remove one nut on each side and separate the flanges there that sandwich the mold and try to slip the plastic mold up over the top of the stud. It is tough, but I found it far easier to simply slice the plastic molding where the stud protrudes thru it and slip it off. Look at it and you'll see what I mean. It re-installs easily and retains with a SS washer.


I can show you two currently on the ground and the bumpers still on


LAter
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 06:31 PM
  #3  
Farkel Jr.'s Avatar
Thread Starter
deal with it
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
From: California
Thanks for the help, I haven't actually really gotten a chance to look at it yet but I will today.

I heard there's like an upside down screw or something?

If you have a picture of an uninstalled one so I can see exactly where all the holes are, that'd be great
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2008 | 07:15 PM
  #4  
badddrx7's Avatar
All Spooled Up
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 3
From: Ironton,ohio
You go out and study it hard from what I explained to you. Then if you have further questions post them here. I believe you'll understand once you are back under the car.



Later
Reply
Old Jun 28, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #5  
muibubbles's Avatar
Bubblicious DEF.
Tenured Member: 15 Years
iTrader: (36)
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 10
From: 732
any pics?? dont feel like getting dirty and going under the car but the sound of it sounds like im gonna have to go under the car......... boo
Reply
Old Jun 28, 2010 | 08:52 PM
  #6  
GoodfellaFD3S's Avatar
Original Gangster/Rotary!
Veteran: Army
Tenured Member: 25 Years
Liked
Loved
iTrader: (213)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally Posted by muibubbles
any pics?? dont feel like getting dirty and going under the car
A large piece of cardboard works wonders in this situation

Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; Jun 28, 2010 at 09:02 PM.
Reply
Old Jun 29, 2010 | 09:01 PM
  #7  
badddrx7's Avatar
All Spooled Up
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,752
Likes: 3
From: Ironton,ohio
Get your *** under there and scope it out with a light Bubbles....you spot the screws and two nuts




later
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 01:19 AM
  #8  
muibubbles's Avatar
Bubblicious DEF.
Tenured Member: 15 Years
iTrader: (36)
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 10
From: 732
youre mean =(
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 02:48 PM
  #9  
DMoneyRX-7's Avatar
Derek
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,011
Likes: 4
From: Treasure Coast, FL
Mine got melted by the exhaust and started falling off on the right side. I guess the plastic was getting really old and brittle too. After a month or so of looking like **** and not having any time to properly remove it, I finally got pissed off and just ripped it off. No damage to the rear bumper or anything but the screws that held it in place are still there. To properly remove it all you have to do is just remove the screws that hold it in place then compress the plastic part of the lip that is in the main bumper and pull down.
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 06:55 PM
  #10  
muibubbles's Avatar
Bubblicious DEF.
Tenured Member: 15 Years
iTrader: (36)
 
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 10
From: 732
^^ty i got that much just havent had the chance to go under and locate them so just wanted to see if anyone could shed some light to where they were located... but im just getting flamed instead hahah
Reply
Old Jun 30, 2010 | 07:53 PM
  #11  
DMoneyRX-7's Avatar
Derek
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,011
Likes: 4
From: Treasure Coast, FL
You will see them. Its not like they are hidden or anything
Reply
Old May 1, 2018 | 10:55 PM
  #12  
94 R2's Avatar
Full Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 116
Likes: 34
From: CA
Bumping this instead of starting a new thread in case there are new tips over the last 8 years.

I'm looking to replace my rear valance without removing the bumper, but it requires perhaps a little more pulling and tugging of the stock bumper than I'm comfortable with.
Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 07:12 AM
  #13  
DaleClark's Avatar
RX-7 Bad Ass
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
You're better off removing the rear bumper to do this job. It's a pain but there isn't a good shortcut.

Generally you remove the tail lights and remove the plastic panel at the back of the hatch. You will probably have to partially detach the two side panels in the hatch.

Remove the bolts along the top of the bumper and get your arm down into the well on either side to remove the 3 nuts on each side holding the bumper in. I think there may be another fastener on the side that you get to from underneath, it's been a while.

Those inside bolts are the WORST, you don't have good access and it's cramped in there. You're working by feel. 1/4" drive tools and fine-tooth ratchets help out here.

Dale
Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 09:56 AM
  #14  
RA8225's Avatar
Banned
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,141
Likes: 46
Wait what? Are you talking about removing the small plastic part at the bottom of the bumper? You don't need to remove the bumper to do this.

I don't recall how many bolts but I think it was 10mm. The 2 bolts at the side are probably the biggest pain.
Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 11:00 AM
  #15  
DaleClark's Avatar
RX-7 Bad Ass
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
That plastic strip has 2 tabs that loop around the studs that hold the bumper on. I'm 90% sure but now I'm starting to doubt myself .

Regardless, take it off right and don't just cut it off or something!

Dale
Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 12:35 PM
  #16  
ZE Power MX6's Avatar
Boilermakers!
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (170)
 
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 379
From: Chicago, IL
I don’t recall being that hard to remove the rear plastic when I did mine 2 years ago, I think I just lay under the bumper with many 10mm tools in different size and shape and just feel it with my hands.
Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 12:48 PM
  #17  
BLUE TII's Avatar
Rotary Motoring
Tenured Member: 25 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 8,479
Likes: 932
From: CA
@___@ you guys fail at searching the web.

I just looked for "RX-7 rear bumper" on Ebay and got great detailed pics of how the lower valence mounts to the rear bumper.

There are seven screws that screw the lower valence to the rear bumper through clip nuts.
The outermost Left and Right and all three middle screw heads are positioned with the heads pointed down toward the pavement when mounted (easy to get to). The Left and Right 2nd to outermost screws are positioned with the heads pointed up away from the pavement when mounted (hard to get to).

There are eight plastic tabs on the lower valence that slide into slots in the rear bumper to position it correctly.





Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 01:29 PM
  #18  
DaleClark's Avatar
RX-7 Bad Ass
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
You can see the black plastic of the valence going around that bottom stud on each side. That's the kicker right there.

Just take the whole bumper off to do it

Dale
Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 02:56 PM
  #19  
BLUE TII's Avatar
Rotary Motoring
Tenured Member: 25 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 8,479
Likes: 932
From: CA
Mwaaa mwaaa mwaaa...

Can you loosen the nut on the lower stud of the vertical bumper mounting bracket and push the stud out?

The diagram seems to indicate the studs can come out.
Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 03:38 PM
  #20  
DaleClark's Avatar
RX-7 Bad Ass
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
You could fight trying to remove a stud under the car with limited access for 15 minutes or pull the bumper off and have easy access to everything .

Dale
Reply
Old May 2, 2018 | 11:49 PM
  #21  
scotty305's Avatar
~17 MPG
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,478
Likes: 334
From: Bend, OR
It's been years since I removed that little black valence thing, but I don't remember it being difficult and I'm pretty sure I didn't need to remove the bumper.
Reply
Old May 3, 2018 | 02:18 AM
  #22  
BlackEuropa's Avatar
Junior Member
Tenured Member 05 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco
I just cut the valance mount tab on one side of it's hole and opened it up enough to push it around the stud. Once you tighten the nut, the tab is locked in.

Last edited by BlackEuropa; May 3, 2018 at 02:21 AM.
Reply
Old May 3, 2018 | 10:08 AM
  #23  
BLUE TII's Avatar
Rotary Motoring
Tenured Member: 25 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 8,479
Likes: 932
From: CA
DaleClark
You could fight trying to remove a stud under the car with limited access for 15 minutes or pull the bumper off and have easy access to everything .
There is a right way and a wrong way for sure.
BlackEuropa
I just cut the valance mount tab on one side of it's hole and opened it up enough to push it around the stud. Once you tighten the nut, the tab is locked in.


See, its ideas like this that get me to do things the wrong way.
Reply
Old May 3, 2018 | 11:03 AM
  #24  
DaleClark's Avatar
RX-7 Bad Ass
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (56)
 
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 15,622
Likes: 2,725
From: Pensacola, FL
It's also possible that you would spend a half hour under the car trying to fight to get to the rusty screws and get them all off. Or have the bumper off with easy access to everything.

Also, for those screws, JIS screwdriver would be a HUGE help. I'm constantly amazed with how well that joker works.

Dale
Reply
Old May 3, 2018 | 12:02 PM
  #25  
Natey's Avatar
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,496
Likes: 1,484
From: West Coast
Another option is to install an Apexi N1. That valance will melt withing two weeks.
Reply

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:24 AM.