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Probably something that should be done with the motor apart and out of the car. While the hose/bolt isn't sexy, it WORKS. I know someone on the forum who welded that nipple shut and had leaking problems, it isn't as easy as it seems.
The nipple is pressed into the iron, best would be to totally remove the nipple then drill/tap for a pipe plug, and seal the pipe plug with plenty of Teflon tape.
find a bolt or screw that you can thread inside the nipple. Then get some leverage and grab it and pull it out. Add lub and heat if needed. then do what dale said.
Locking pliers and wiggle it left, right, forward, backward till it's loose. After that rotate it and it will slowly come out. AVOID GOING TO FAR WIGGLING IT, YOU DO NOT WANT TO BEND IT. If you do it will be like a soda cap and eventually break off. Take your time and it will simply come out. After that tap it with an 1/8" NPT tap and put a plug in there with an allen head with red locktite till it snugs up or bottoms out.
Probably something that should be done with the motor apart and out of the car. While the hose/bolt isn't sexy, it WORKS. I know someone on the forum who welded that nipple shut and had leaking problems, it isn't as easy as it seems.
The nipple is pressed into the iron, best would be to totally remove the nipple then drill/tap for a pipe plug, and seal the pipe plug with plenty of Teflon tape.
Dale
That was me
Two options
1- remove both nipple and sleeve then weld the hole shut
2- remove both nipple and sleeve then drill and tap. I used the hole for a coolant temp sensor
Locking pliers and wiggle it left, right, forward, backward till it's loose. After that rotate it and it will slowly come out. AVOID GOING TO FAR WIGGLING IT, YOU DO NOT WANT TO BEND IT. If you do it will be like a soda cap and eventually break off. Take your time and it will simply come out. After that tap it with an 1/8" NPT tap and put a plug in there with an allen head with red locktite till it snugs up or bottoms out.
You sure it's 1/8" NPT? I just removed my top nipple and the hole size is 3/8"... I was going to drill it to 7/16" for a 1/4"NPT plug... But if 1/8"NPT works I'd rather do that.
You sure it's 1/8" NPT? I just removed my top nipple and the hole size is 3/8"... I was going to drill it to 7/16" for a 1/4"NPT plug... But if 1/8"NPT works I'd rather do that.
I'm 100% sure. I've done it many, many, many times.
If its rotten, you've got a problem and its prob best to leave it "as is" until you next pull the engine.
If it looks in good shape, wiggle it out and weld the hole shut (Be sure to put something solid inside the tube as to not crush/snap it). I tig welded up both of mine this way.
If you do weld it, make sure you get plenty of penetration so its not a thin lid that's going to rot away. With the engine in pieces, you can weld both sides of the hole & grind it smooth as if it never exited (Imo, ideal solution). Engine irons weld nicely, don't let the name "iron" put you off, you'd be fine with any normal mig.
The issue I have with tapping is that the metal removed by the tap can go into the coolant, not really ideal. If this doesn't bother you, then tapping out the hole and putting a bolt in will work just fine.
Just in case any one searches this in the future... 1/2" NPT tap/plug worked great for the heater hose hole on the driver side of the block. Hole will need to be opened up about 1/32" (0.03125"). I used my dremel with sanding drum to carefully open it up. When tapping be VERY careful because the wall on one side is only about 0.125" thick.
What tap set are you using? And are you doing it by hand?
Yes by hand... I bought a quality 1/2" NPT tap on Ebay for $15 shipped. My local hardware store wanted almost $25! Honestly I looked into tap sets and figured it's not worth it since I probably will hardly use it again. Plus the quality ones cost big bucks.
I have been considering this as well as ditching the port on the back of the water pump housing. I have had them running together for awhile.
However, my engine is assembled and I am apprehensive to get metal shavings in the coolant passage. I considered doing it, then hitting it with my ShopVac and a narrow adapter.
1/8 tap I bought at the hardware store since it was only $6.
Originally Posted by XLR8
I have been considering this as well as ditching the port on the back of the water pump housing. I have had them running together for awhile.
However, my engine is assembled and I am apprehensive to get metal shavings in the coolant passage. I considered doing it, then hitting it with my ShopVac and a narrow adapter.
Thoughts?
I shoved in a rolled up paper towel nice and snug to catch the shavings and oil. I periodically vacuumed out the shavings and finally pulled out the paper towel at the end with a pair of needle nose pliers. Squeaky clean.
I just did the top of the water pump housing as well..1/4" tap and needs to be enlarged a hair before tapping. Thought about welding this one, but I guess I can change my mind if I want to later...
Just in case any one searches this in the future... 1/2" NPT tap/plug worked great for the heater hose hole on the driver side of the block. Hole will need to be opened up about 1/32" (0.03125"). I used my dremel with sanding drum to carefully open it up. When tapping be VERY careful because the wall on one side is only about 0.125" thick.
I’m curious to know how the pressed-in heater hose nipple fitting was removed?
On the rear Renesis irons I can pop them right out twisting back & forth with pliers or even by hand since it was a bend in it rather than being straight out. Am trying to get one out of a new REW iron and it just won’’t budge **at all**. Even a 24” long set of water pump pliers is only crushing the tube with no removal progress. I was thinking if it has to be drilled out some regardless, a cutoff wheel to whack off the external portion and then just drill it out could possibly work.
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It can obviously come out any number of ways if you’re committed to getting it out at any cost/effort, and people hammer a bend in the smaller sizes and twist them out that way, but with 24” long pliers and it not budging at all with that torque arm length, it’s in there way tighter than I was ever expecting it to be.
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Quite a while back, that hose nipple and from memory, some other press-in bits on another plate needed to be removed before lapping.....all that was required was a lightweight hammer and a backing (dolly or mini sledge would work) to shock it out.
You're not trying to go to town on it, just gingerly remove. When done correctly, the nipple isn't damaged or destroyed and is reusable.
^ If the engine is in the car I absolutely would do that before trying to remove that nipple cleanly and tapping for a plug.
FWIW, that line is also a great place for the sensor on an aftermarket coolant temp gauge too. Immediate and accurate readings instead of drilling and tapping the front housing for one behind the t-stat.
Removing Rear Iron Coolant Nipple
(Imo, ideal solution). Engine irons weld nicely, don't let the name "iron" put you off, you'd be fine with any normal mig.
