is there anyone who might have a diagram on how it is held onto the motor, im having a tuff time getting it off, i can only see like 3 philips head screws.

 

I had no idea how to do it either untill I did it for myself. Besides the screws there are a few other 10mm bolts (IIRC) that you can back out and that should do it. Just pull up on the rack itself and where it gets tighter, there should be a bolt there. Just tear into it and get 'er done.

 

thanks alot, i wasnt even looking for 10mm, a thing i read only said stuff abou the philips heads

 

You can just unbold it from the block using the 10mm bolts. However, that requires disconnecting the fuel lines (using the screws doesn't).

 

yah im doing my fuel anyways, anyone have any pics?

 

let me stumble through my pics to see if I have anything good... until then, look at the rotor housings, the bolts will be under the coils going into the housings from brackets off the rack.



You see the four bolt holes (the rear housing has some ground wires going to them, one of the front holes is covered by a wire in the pic)... those should be the only bolts holding the entire vacuum/fuel rack in... may sure you undo the large coolant crossover line and all the fuel lines (remember the arrangement of these as the indicator dots are typically worn off).

Hope that helps, if I find any better pics I'll post them.
~Kris

 

that was a very helpful picture, i have it very loose now. i just need to disconect all the electrical from the selinoids, and the fuel lines

 

NOOOOOOOOOOO DUDE i found out the easy way once you get down to the rats nest part and your ready to hit the screws scrap that just take off the fuel lines thats whats holding it down, i learn the hard way and ray that use to be with PFS told me to just unhook the return and send fuel lines try that, dont worry about the screws you wil just strip them hope this helps

 

im gettting ready to remove mine. what do you do with all those clips?? also you dont ned the air pump after that do ya?

 

What clips? the electrical connectors to the solenoids?

I had it all apart when I did the fuel injectors and omp lines about two weeks ago, so if anyone needs any help it is still all fresh in my memory. I took out the rats nest by taking off the fuel hoses and unbolting the bolts that bolt down the assembly peice with all the metal fuel and coolant lines, not by removing the philips head screws.

I did find it to be easier to reassemble everything with the rats nest unscrewed from the assembly with fuel and coolant lines. You should be able to get those philips screws out easily with a 1/4 socket, a good philips head bit in the socket, and a 1/4" socket wrench (after the rats nest is out). You only have to unscrew two screws from each side of the rats nest, not the 3 on top. When re-assembling, I think it is much easier to get the fuel hoses on with the rats nest out, then it is easier to connect those electrical plugs to the solenoids while installing the rats nest with the other peice with metal lines is already sitting on the engine, but some of those screws are then hard to get in and tightened, but I am still glad I did it that way.

Be very careful around those old stock little OMP lines, they snap off very easily where they connect to the oil injectors on top of the block near the primary injectors, then you got more work to do to replace those like I had to do.

 

I chose to keep my airpump after thinking about removing it for a while when everything was all apart, I chose to keep all the emissions and AWS parts (aws doesn't work with the power fc). I didn't want to have the cold start issues some do when removing the AWS hose to throttle body elbow, and I didn't want my exhaust to stink any worse than it already does, I heard it will stink worse without the airpump, it smells bad enough now. And I didn't want to not have the extra air going to my stock CAT which it is supposed to have. IMO it is best to keep the airpump unless you have to get rid of it because you need the space for a single turbo or something.

 

oh, if your going to disconnect your fuel lines, let the pressure out of the tank by undoing the gas cap. This will stop you losing a lot of petrol and thinking your fuel pump is still on lol.

and: http://www.face2faces.co.uk/RX7/howto/ratsnest1.htm

 

Don't forget the phillips head screws on the back of the rack facing the firewall. I used a 1/4" ratchet with a #2 phillips head and a lot of pressure to get them out. If you strip them you will need to vice grip them out (PIA). I only had to do that to one of them.

 

this what its suppose to look like when finished??

 

yeah, I believe i had to use an impact driver to get those screws out...

 

Is it possible to remove those connector ?? i mean those connectors go on solenoids rack

 

Wiring connectors on Solenoids? - Yes. Your wording is a little hard to understand, take your time, read what you write to make sure it makes sense before submitting the reply.

 

How can i remove those wiring conectors on solenoids ?? should i just cut those and use electrical tape to cover it ?

Or there is better method, thx

 

If you have the PFC, Haltech or some other aftermarket programmable ECU, you can just cut the connectors off. However, I would recommend NOT doing that in case you ever need to use those connections again (or you decide to sell the car).