Removing the inhibitor switch?
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: York Area, Pennsylvania
Removing the inhibitor switch?
My FD isn't getting any power to any system at all. I got the workshop manual and have been using that to fix the problem.
Order of work done:
-New battery and battery terminals
-Checked all fuses, no problems
-Checked starter, no problem
-Check inhibitor switch, still working on it
The question is how do I get the inhibitor switch (connector) off w/o dropping the transmission? Any experience with it or ideas?
Btw the car is Automatic not sure of that will change anything.
Order of work done:
-New battery and battery terminals
-Checked all fuses, no problems
-Checked starter, no problem
-Check inhibitor switch, still working on it
The question is how do I get the inhibitor switch (connector) off w/o dropping the transmission? Any experience with it or ideas?
Btw the car is Automatic not sure of that will change anything.
New reaper,
If there is no power at all, IE nothing you need to back up a second. The power and ground circuits are where you need to focus your tests. In checking the fuses you should look at them but surely confirm current flow with a test light. If theres nothing the odds are overwhelmingly in favor of a major ground or power input. The power input would be likely close to the battery and the ground a major one. Things like brake lights and dome lights are direct contact with the battery bypassing the ignition switch. I would check the brake lights first. If you truly have nothing look under the hood and close to the battery if not on the battery.
Starting the car takes the largest electrical load over a short time. If the battery and connections are good I would run down the cables and check the other ends. Just give them a tug with the ignition on and the head lights. You may see the lights pop up or something react.
If there is no power at all, IE nothing you need to back up a second. The power and ground circuits are where you need to focus your tests. In checking the fuses you should look at them but surely confirm current flow with a test light. If theres nothing the odds are overwhelmingly in favor of a major ground or power input. The power input would be likely close to the battery and the ground a major one. Things like brake lights and dome lights are direct contact with the battery bypassing the ignition switch. I would check the brake lights first. If you truly have nothing look under the hood and close to the battery if not on the battery.
Starting the car takes the largest electrical load over a short time. If the battery and connections are good I would run down the cables and check the other ends. Just give them a tug with the ignition on and the head lights. You may see the lights pop up or something react.
Last edited by J.S.J; Nov 1, 2004 at 11:24 PM. Reason: more info seen
New Reaper,
I am having a problem with my auto tranny. When the car is in "P", the "D" is also illuminted on the dash. Then when I shift the car in to "D" the "R" is illuminated. The tranny obivioulsy does not know where there the shifting point are and there for is making the car run in "limp" mode. Wher the "L" is second and "S" and "D" are third gear, but I have to manually shift the car. This is too weird. Just wondering if you are having the same symptoms. Please let me know.
-Cody
I am having a problem with my auto tranny. When the car is in "P", the "D" is also illuminted on the dash. Then when I shift the car in to "D" the "R" is illuminated. The tranny obivioulsy does not know where there the shifting point are and there for is making the car run in "limp" mode. Wher the "L" is second and "S" and "D" are third gear, but I have to manually shift the car. This is too weird. Just wondering if you are having the same symptoms. Please let me know.
-Cody
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