I had to remove it because the seal is causing my oil leak, is it going to be ok when i push it back in and fire the car up?

 

you need the rear stationary gear if you dont want ur rear rotor to fail after a few miles

 

Well no **** captain kangaroo......


You'll be okay, Just slide it back in.

 

oh ok, it can't be "misaligned" right, this is just support for the rear of the eshaft?

 

No, it can't be mis-alligned.

 

well i've never fully disassembled a rotary, all this gear does keep the rotor from wobbling and you just push it back in and don't think twice?

I was originally thinking at first it had something to do with the alignment of the rotor inside the housing

 

It alligns the rotor/e-shaft, yes. It keeps the e-shaft centered. Just slide it back in and your good to go.

 

i'm just afraid of the SLIGHT chance something is off by a tooth now, is that possible?

sorry im' freakin out here, just going to be really upset if i start it and due to misalignment something breaks

 

You can't be off a tooth. The stationary gear is just something that the rotor/eshaft ride on.

 

Ok, i'm going to order a new o-ring from ray, but from what i'm finding on the internet, it's pretty common for this to leak, should i also put some silicone around the new oring when i install it?

(mine had a crack all the way through it so my engine leaked a LOT of oil which looked like the oilpan but it wasn't)

 

If you're putting a new o-ring there. You shouldn't need silicone. I've never used it.

 

You put the motor at TDC before you pulled the rear stationary gear, right? If you didn't you run the risk of the rear rotor slipping out of position and then you're SCREWED and you won't be able to put the rear stationary gear back in. You'll have to rebuild the motor at that point. Get a replacement o-ring from Ray Crowe at Malloy, it's only about $6 if I remember right.

 

no i didn't move hte position of the engine at all, i just took the stat gear out

 

The rear rotor probably didn't slip but it is a risk if you don't put the motor at top dead center before pulling the rear stationary gear. Also you should put vaseline on the new o-ring so that it seats properly when you put the rear stationary gear back in.

 

How's it going to slip out of position when it's on the e-shaft?

It's not going anywhere, if you try and turn the motor over by hand without that stationary gear, it will feel like it's in somewhat of a bind, but it's not going anywhere.

Just slide that stationary gear back in.

 

just follow what the FSM says.

 

It is VERY possible that the motor did "relax" a bit when you took the gear out...ask me how I know this is possible. It will be tough to get the gear back in, but also VERY possible to get the gear in. I even had to turn the motor by the gear to get the alignment pin to slip in its slot. Hopefully you car is on a lift, you [your body] will be in a better position to force the gear in.

GOOD LUCK


I have close to 10k on my motor after this incident...definitely not fun.

 

Well the rotor is aligned by the e-shaft like lupe said, nothing should be able to be damaged?

i'm just going to re-insert it and turn the motor by hand to make sure it doesn't bind

 

exactly...... "again"

 

vasaline will harm the o;ring over time. Do not use it. It you feel the need for something use some hylomar sealnt, but nothing is really needed. And the other questions you had were answered again and again already, so i will not repeat them.

 

I know I just find it odd everyone has a different opinion on this, guess I should have asked "only reply if you've disassembled an engine before"

 

I've successfully done exactly what you're attempting to do and I was only trying to help you not screw up your motor . I was quoting TSB B00398 regarding putting the motor at TDC before removing the rear stationary gear:

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/3rdgen/manu...%20recalls.pdf

http://rx7.bendehaven.com/pdf/FDTSB.pdf

My favorite part of the TSB is "If the e shaft and rotor are rotated with the RS gear removed, they cannot be re-used. The engine will require overhauling."

 

I was not aware vaseline would hurt an o-ring, you learn something new every day I suppose. The reason I suggested using vaseline is because that was what the factory service manual stated to use if I remember right.

 

Yep, and just about every rebuild video says to use vaseline as well to keep it from binding as everything is assembled.

 

Yeah it won't go back in as is, going to remove the front belts, looks like the crank drooped just a tad