FD'up

hey guys, I am planning on buying a Reman from Ray at Malloy and plan on installing it myself. My questions are for those who have done it or if you have any advice. I am wondering if its a mater of bleeding the fuel lines, flushing the coolant, oil, and unplugging all the hoses and puting in the new one or is it a little harder than that? If you guys have any suggestions or advice, please let me have it. thanks to all that help, i will be forever greatful.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

fd clutches suck they're pull type we had to unbolt the pressure plate from flywheel through the service door to pull the engine maybe somone knows an easier way and as for the fuel lines you just have to prime the system which you just have to turn the key like 3 times as for coolant and oil just refill them and make sure theres oil pressure before starting the car

FD'up

thanks for the advice, can you go alittle more in depth on the clutch

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

All the accessories off the old engine need to be relocated to the new engine. It's much easier to do outside the car than to drop a core in the engine bay and start trying to hook everything up then. Also, I would take that time to do some things like:

Recondition the fuel system
New fuel pulsation damper
Replace all coolant lines
Replace oil system gaskets and crush washers
New vacuum lines
etc.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

well once you unbolt the pressure plate form the flywheel engine will come right out as long as every thing else is drianed and disconnected

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

and what he said

FD'up

thanks alot, how much do you think those will cost? and where is a good place to buy from? will ray work?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

wtf is ray?

FD'up

ray at malloy

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Ray at Malloy Mazda will be just fine for all the OEM parts.

bajaman

It can't be understated how.......not really "difficult".....but more time consuming and tedious and often frustrating it is to actually do the engine pull, teardown to the shortblock, refurbish/replace all the myriad components (dozens of things related to the turbos ALONE!), replace all the coolant, fuel lines, vacuum lines.....then rebuild/reinstall everything you took off, and then you have the 'fun' of dropping the engine back in.
And I had over $6K in my rebuild when it was all said and done, using a Malloy reman as a "starting" point.
Don't get all warm and fuzzy thinking you can actually "rebuild" an FD's engine for basically the cost of the motor. It goes FAR beyond that to do it right. And why do anything less?

If you do it, take the time to detail out the things that haven't been properly taken care of for 11-14 years.

FD'up

i never planned on rebuilding the engine, that is why i am buying a reman

White94RX

Yeah, but you still better replace all the vac lines and hoses, fuel pulsation dampener, and all the other misc o-rings, gaskets, and hoses. if not, you're pissing in the wind.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

To get back to the original question, installing a reman is definitely a big job, especially if you want to do it right. The core engine itself is the easy part - all the hoses, gaskets, and wires that bolt onto it is where people have problems. There's a ton of "I just put my motor back in and it won't start/run right" type posts.

If you really want to do it yourself, here's a few suggestions. First off, TAKE YOUR TIME. People rush through disassembly and that really bites you in the ***. You have to label EVERYTHING, take digital camera pics of how things go in, and examine everything you remove. I also screw bolts back in to where they went, or put them in a labeled Ziploc baggie. Tossing all the bolts into a coffee can won't cut it.

I'd also recommend buying and watching Bruce Turrentine's remove and install video -

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/R%20R%20Video.htm

That gives a lot of pointers.

If you feel over your head, there's plenty of good folk that can do the work, myself included.

Dale

DamonB

I was a "just stuff a reman in it and be done" guy

After pulling the motor I spent a long 10 or so hour day removing and cleaning parts and then installing them on the new motor. Engine removal and install isn't much time at all, no more than 2-3 hours for each. I'd done the vac hose job years before so I was familiar with that. If that's new ground to you as well I could easily see someone taking two full days just to install the parts and accessories onto the new motor.

As others have mentioned now is the time to replace stuff like coolant lines, vac lines, fuel system components, OMP lines etc.

dubulup

I think I'm turning into that guy as well.

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

If you have a little extra money, don't forget to replace the wiring harnesses in the engine bay (2) as long as you've got the motor out. It will add ~$1000 to the project, but you will likely save yourself tons of time and frustration from chasing down electrical gremlins and broken wire issues in the future.

Just my .02!

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

Yep, I think I spent about $6K in ancilliary parts just so I could have a known and WORKING baseline using a NEW short block.

Every hose, gasket, O-ring, solenoid, and line was replaced, esp. in the fuel-system, as well as having the injectors cleaned & flow-tested by RC Engineering.

Bolts were inspected, wire-wheel cleaned, and replaced if necessary.

Good luck,
:-) neil

FD'up

thanks for all the advice so far. so i am coming to the conclusion that i was not sure of all the parts that comes with a reman. if you guys could give me a complete list of all things that come with the reman and all the part that need to be replaced, or any other sites that has some more advice.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Reman comes with basically nothing - the core "block" of the engine, the flywheel, and the water pump and housing. That's it. You have to move over the intake manifolds, vacuum lines, water hoses, fuel injectors and rails, turbos, etc. etc. etc.

I recommend reading this -

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._teardown.html

A reman arrives like the last step in that process, save the oil pan is already on it, the flywheel, and the water pump housing.

Dale

bajaman

You'll start with a complete engine, tear it down to the short block, get in your shiny new Malloy rebuild (with 'extras' like mine if you did it right!), then put all sorts of new and expensive parts back on along with whatever you could salvage off the old engine.

FD'up

so here are the last of my questions, what did you guys replace and what should i replace definetly? what gaskets need to be replaced? What needs to be down to the fuel system? i need a list of everything. I am sorry if these questions are getting annoying I just need to know what I should order because i am on a tight schedule, but still plan on going slowly during the reman switch. thanks for the pics and url's. its allowing me to be a lot more confident.

bajaman

On the first page both Mahjik and Dale Clark make some key points. Listen to these guys and others. Your questions are not "annoying" as we have all been there at one time or another.
If you are doing this engine pull/teardown/refurbish/reinstall yourself, it IS critical to watch the Rotary Aviation (Bruce Turrentine) video....VERY helpful. And you can save yourself a helluva lot of pain by carefully labeling EVERYTHING. I did this, put each component, bolt, screw, washer, connector, etc in a Ziploc baggie. I also kept a logbook of each single thing I did. I am glad I did because from the time I started to the time I finished was over 2 years.
You never said how many miles your engine had on it. This is crucial as far as if you are going to use your original turbos. Quite frankly, if your turbos have more than about 60,000 miles on them I would replace them with some lower mileage ones or new. New ones will run you $2500 - $3000+. But you can pick up some very good used ones in the 'For Sale' section all the time for a lot less. And you should 'shop' there for a lot of your other parts you will want to replace, things such as the fuel pulsation dampener (a MUST replace item!) and other items that are ridiculously high from a dealer. Be sure to replace your oil metering lines and crush washers too.
Hmmmm....you really need a list of MUST replace items vs. OUGHT TO replace items.
Perhaps this is the time to start a sticky and have everyone contribute?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

FD'up,

The chances of having "everything" you need at one time is very slim. You usually run into something that you need to or should replace as you are removing components from the old engine.

However, this list will get you started:

Fuel Hose recall kit (additionally pick up some fuel hose from your local auto store)
Injector grommets & air bleed sockets (the reman should already come with 2 for the primaries)
Injector o-rings (you should get some if, and you should, get your injectors cleaned)
Coolant hose kit
Crush washers for the oil injection lines as well as the oil cooler lines
Gaskets for the turbo oil lines (4 of them)
Gaskets for the intake manifolds (3 of them)

Most of the gaskets on the exhaust side can be reused. You'll need to clean them up with a wire brush and inspect them to see if they can be reused. Also, you'll need to check some of the sensors to see if they need to be replaced like the Knock Sensor which can leak out the "goo" inside.

Other notes, you might need to replace the hose that connects the CRV to the Y-pipe. It's a preformed hose which can turn into hard plastic from the heat. Like I said, you won't know everything you'll need until you start removing stuff from the old engine.

Good luck.

FD'up

thank for getting me started, I will be ordering the reman in the next couple days. I am going to look for the dampener in the 'for sale' section. Where are some good places to buy, vac hose kits, gaskets, all fuel and oil lines, etc? You guys said it may e expensive from a dealer, so if there any other places out there let me know. And i agree with bajaman, we should start up a sticky replacement parts for a swap. I will also buy that video by bruce. thanks again and i will keep you guys posted.