Reliability
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 423
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From: New Zealand
Reliability
Well,
as my FD now looks down the barrell of a rebuild... i'm thinking reliability at the same time.
would i be better to drop and tune a Power FC to a stock engine... or look towards the radiator upgrades etc?
i want to be able tog et more power out of her eventually, but since she will be taking run in miles anyway, maybe it is best to suffer the big hit of the Power FC now ($$ wise).
the computer will let me monitor knock and run a little rich, but is it worth it?!
your thoughts... where should i look first?
OH, second question, would i gain any reliable power from the Power FC on a stock engine, or are they tuned well to start?
as my FD now looks down the barrell of a rebuild... i'm thinking reliability at the same time.
would i be better to drop and tune a Power FC to a stock engine... or look towards the radiator upgrades etc?
i want to be able tog et more power out of her eventually, but since she will be taking run in miles anyway, maybe it is best to suffer the big hit of the Power FC now ($$ wise).
the computer will let me monitor knock and run a little rich, but is it worth it?!
your thoughts... where should i look first?
OH, second question, would i gain any reliable power from the Power FC on a stock engine, or are they tuned well to start?
Look at my sig, do you see anything about a radiator?
I had this car for 4 years in FL and no problems with overheating on the stock radiator, with 355RWHP.
2 things:
1. Flow into/out-of the radiator, "shark-mod" nose spreader bars on the bumper and cleaning up the inside of the engine to allow flow out of the radiator
2. Changing fan turn on points. This can be accomplished with various "fan mods" or the PFC with a Datalogit to lower cooling fan turn on points.
IMHO, all aluminum racing radiators are needed for just that...racing. I have autocrossed my car extensively and never had a probelm, but for real sustained track racing the stockers wont get out the heat for extended periods of time, hence the need for a thicker radiator
I had this car for 4 years in FL and no problems with overheating on the stock radiator, with 355RWHP.
2 things:
1. Flow into/out-of the radiator, "shark-mod" nose spreader bars on the bumper and cleaning up the inside of the engine to allow flow out of the radiator
2. Changing fan turn on points. This can be accomplished with various "fan mods" or the PFC with a Datalogit to lower cooling fan turn on points.
IMHO, all aluminum racing radiators are needed for just that...racing. I have autocrossed my car extensively and never had a probelm, but for real sustained track racing the stockers wont get out the heat for extended periods of time, hence the need for a thicker radiator
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
From: New Zealand
If ur gonna have ur FD for a long time to come I would probably invest in an FC earlier and get it out of the way. I'm in NZ as well and I know how expensive they are. After that its really cool to know that no matter what mods you do to ur engine you will be able to tune it accuratly
OH, second question, would i gain any reliable power from the Power FC on a stock engine, or are they tuned well to start?
I had this car for 4 years in FL and no problems with overheating on the stock radiator
Oh, drives it likes its on the track most of the time too.My stock radiator did fine, I just got paranoid and liked the extra insurance of the Fluidyne. In the end, coolant o-ring killed me, not a radiator.
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