regarding the synthetic oil debate
#1
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regarding the synthetic oil debate
It would be interesting to see if the owner's manual for the 2001/2002 FD has the same discalimer regarding synthetic oils as the 93-95 has.
Can anyone here from japan or australia check?
Can anyone here from japan or australia check?
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Despite gmonsen's tirade I'd be curious to know what the late model FD owner's manual says regarding synthetic oil, so if anybody in Japan knows, please chime in.
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#10
5yr member, joined 2001
Originally posted by 0piston
IMO The only time it shouldn't be used is when you are breaking in your new engine
IMO The only time it shouldn't be used is when you are breaking in your new engine
#11
fart on a friends head!!!
gordon,
what do you think about the zMAX product. . . im gonna do it anyways, i just want to get another take on it. . . im doing this kinda on my own, except for my buddies in aviation.
paul
what do you think about the zMAX product. . . im gonna do it anyways, i just want to get another take on it. . . im doing this kinda on my own, except for my buddies in aviation.
paul
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Originally posted by gmonsen
"regarding the synthetic" christ, not this again. synthetic is the best thing to use. that's all there is to it. it just doesn't matter what mazda says. we've all been doing it for eons with nothing but great results. and i have just had it with those still debating it. its enormously tiresome. these threads start and a whole bunch of us older guys that have beenm running synth for years say its great and give all the reasons and people still question it. just use redline, mobil 1 or royal purple and your car will run better and smoother and you will lower your water and oil temps. that's all there is to it. -gordon
"regarding the synthetic" christ, not this again. synthetic is the best thing to use. that's all there is to it. it just doesn't matter what mazda says. we've all been doing it for eons with nothing but great results. and i have just had it with those still debating it. its enormously tiresome. these threads start and a whole bunch of us older guys that have beenm running synth for years say its great and give all the reasons and people still question it. just use redline, mobil 1 or royal purple and your car will run better and smoother and you will lower your water and oil temps. that's all there is to it. -gordon
Gene
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I change my oil regularly at 1.5k miles with Castrol dino, in this case do I need to go synthetics? Even if I did, I still want to change at 1.5k miles and that's $$.
So it boils down to budget in a way I guess.
Timmy
So it boils down to budget in a way I guess.
Timmy
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Originally posted by Fd3BOOST
Your $30 sixpack of oil is still cheaper than a motor.
Your $30 sixpack of oil is still cheaper than a motor.
#17
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When I switch to synthetic, I'm still going to change it once it is filled with enough carbon to make it almost black regardless of the miles.
I can tell ya I've ran synthetics in other cars, and the engine DID rev and idle smoother. Of course, on a regular car, I'd leave it in the engine for up to almost 5 thousand or so miles, but on the FD, once that stuff is filled with carbon, out it goes
One of the reasons why I use Mobil 1 synthetic Pre-mix is because of its clean burning characteristics, whic is also why I use Mobil for the regular oil, and which is why I will switch to Mobil 1 for the synthetic stuff. My friend who was constantly around road racing swears by Mobil, and if its good enough for a lot of the pro, then it's good enough for me
I can tell ya I've ran synthetics in other cars, and the engine DID rev and idle smoother. Of course, on a regular car, I'd leave it in the engine for up to almost 5 thousand or so miles, but on the FD, once that stuff is filled with carbon, out it goes
One of the reasons why I use Mobil 1 synthetic Pre-mix is because of its clean burning characteristics, whic is also why I use Mobil for the regular oil, and which is why I will switch to Mobil 1 for the synthetic stuff. My friend who was constantly around road racing swears by Mobil, and if its good enough for a lot of the pro, then it's good enough for me
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Originally posted by gmonsen
flybye: agree. best way to tell if its time is proably to look at the oil on the stick and see if its got filings and crap and isn't clear. but, you don't really mean "carboned up" do you? there's no source for carbon, is there? carbon comes from petroleum and synth doesn't have any. -gordon
flybye: agree. best way to tell if its time is proably to look at the oil on the stick and see if its got filings and crap and isn't clear. but, you don't really mean "carboned up" do you? there's no source for carbon, is there? carbon comes from petroleum and synth doesn't have any. -gordon
When the synthetic begins to break down and discolor itself or when anything else begins to run in the oil is when I'll change it. I was just so used to saying when "It's carboned up" I nearly forgot that Synthetic has no carbon. Spare me for it is early Sunday morning
Last edited by Flybye; 07-21-02 at 10:55 AM.
#19
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What is the exact name and weight of this mobil oil that all you guys think it's good. I was thinking about putting it in, since all of you think it's good. I Know i have read that synthetics are bad for rotaries, but what a hell i'll give it a shot. So can someone write me exact name and weight of the one that's good.
Thanks
Thanks
#20
fart on a friends head!!!
ill post it again. .. here is a thread about a comparison chart that i found. take a look. this will dismiss everything youve heard negative about synthetics.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ight=synthetic
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ight=synthetic
#22
fart on a friends head!!!
depends on your climate. im using currently castrol syntec 10w-30. . . i think ill be going to 20-50 soon though, my pressue stayed higher with 20-50.
paul
paul
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the carbon in the oil isn't from the oil... its from combustion gasses blowing by into the oil....
Ever have a propane vehicle??(I havn't ) but the oil is always clean. Thats cause there is almost no carbon as a result of the propane burning.
Ever have a propane vehicle??(I havn't ) but the oil is always clean. Thats cause there is almost no carbon as a result of the propane burning.
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Time for my $.02 in this thread. Lets see how good a job I can do!
Rotor brain linked to another thread with 2 links in his top post.
I think the 1st link is pretty worthless, I think the 2nd is very important.
The 1st has some pictures. They show the Mobil-1 engine parts pristine. This is pretty much what some of us knew already. They then show the 2nd set of dirty parts. Its hard to draw exact conclusions from the 2nd set. It was mostly non-synthetic then Castrol Syntec. It would be fair to assume that most if not all of the buildup was from the non-syn, but you can't know for sure.
On to the 2nd link. http://go-synthetic.com/compare_oils/compare_oils.html.
From everything I have read, Mazda's recommendation for not using synthetic comes from Ash and combustion characteristics of the oil. Otherwise everyone knows about the rest of synthetics superior characteristics. We care about Ash because we burn our oil in our gas in our rotaries. That's not to say the other denominators aren't important, its just that they are the same with piston engines. Therefore they aren't specific to us.
Check out the chart. I used the 10W-30 specifically, since it lists the most brands.
Here were the results from lowest ash content to highes (best to worst)
Amsoil 0.05
Red Line 0.85
Mobil 1 0.85 -> .90
Chev. Sup Syn 1.1
Valvoline 1.5
We have no ash numbers for Syntec or Golden Spectro. Royal Purple is totally missing, as are Pennzoil and Exxon. There might be a few others I can't think of.
OK. We could see that
I started searching. A number of hits show the same article (2nd) that we know of.
I found a different comparison here. It has some more ash numbers
http://www.bimmerforums.com/AmsoilStudybyBobM3.php
This is worth a read.
It gives us a few other numbers. I don't think the guy could come up with numbers for AMSOIL, because it was too low for him, or he threw it out as inaccurate.
Castrol .90-.93
Quaker State < 1.0 -> 1.1
Havoline F3 1.1
Union 76 1.1
NEO 1.3
Combine the two and we end up with this:
Amsoil 0.05
Red Line 0.85
Mobil 1 0.85 -> .90
Castrol .90-.93
Quaker State < 1.0 -> 1.1
Havoline F3 1.1
Union 76 1.1
Chev. Sup Syn 1.1
NEO 1.3
Valvoline 1.5
In conclusion, we have very little to go on for ash content aside from the 2nd article mentioned formerly, and the one directly above. If we use the 2nd article as an accurate benchmark it shows an insanely low ash content for AMSOIL. AMSOIL is my choice, once I use up my Castrol GTX and Red-Line. I
If you had asked me 6 months ago, I would have said that Mobil 1 is the choice, they were the 1st, and everyone has been trying to catch up to them. That belief was based upon price value. I was aware of AMSOIL but believed the cost too high (maybe I was just getting raped from the distributor before ~8.00/qt). I had been told that they were the **** (AMSOIL), but decided I could live with Mobil1 for 2/3 -> 1/2 the price. Before that I was running Castrol GTX, and then Syntec for a while.
Trivia: In 1972, AMSOIL Inc. opened its doors as Amzoil Synthetic Lubricants. U.S. Air Force award winning jet fighter pilot AL "A.J." Amatuzio gained solid appreciation for the extra ordinary synthetic oils that protected the engines of the jets he flew. Amatuzio started Amsoil Inc., a revolutionary oil company and introduced the first API classified synthetic motor oil in the world.
Rotorbrain, you owe me a beer
Rotor brain linked to another thread with 2 links in his top post.
I think the 1st link is pretty worthless, I think the 2nd is very important.
The 1st has some pictures. They show the Mobil-1 engine parts pristine. This is pretty much what some of us knew already. They then show the 2nd set of dirty parts. Its hard to draw exact conclusions from the 2nd set. It was mostly non-synthetic then Castrol Syntec. It would be fair to assume that most if not all of the buildup was from the non-syn, but you can't know for sure.
On to the 2nd link. http://go-synthetic.com/compare_oils/compare_oils.html.
From everything I have read, Mazda's recommendation for not using synthetic comes from Ash and combustion characteristics of the oil. Otherwise everyone knows about the rest of synthetics superior characteristics. We care about Ash because we burn our oil in our gas in our rotaries. That's not to say the other denominators aren't important, its just that they are the same with piston engines. Therefore they aren't specific to us.
Check out the chart. I used the 10W-30 specifically, since it lists the most brands.
Here were the results from lowest ash content to highes (best to worst)
Amsoil 0.05
Red Line 0.85
Mobil 1 0.85 -> .90
Chev. Sup Syn 1.1
Valvoline 1.5
We have no ash numbers for Syntec or Golden Spectro. Royal Purple is totally missing, as are Pennzoil and Exxon. There might be a few others I can't think of.
OK. We could see that
I started searching. A number of hits show the same article (2nd) that we know of.
I found a different comparison here. It has some more ash numbers
http://www.bimmerforums.com/AmsoilStudybyBobM3.php
This is worth a read.
It gives us a few other numbers. I don't think the guy could come up with numbers for AMSOIL, because it was too low for him, or he threw it out as inaccurate.
Castrol .90-.93
Quaker State < 1.0 -> 1.1
Havoline F3 1.1
Union 76 1.1
NEO 1.3
Combine the two and we end up with this:
Amsoil 0.05
Red Line 0.85
Mobil 1 0.85 -> .90
Castrol .90-.93
Quaker State < 1.0 -> 1.1
Havoline F3 1.1
Union 76 1.1
Chev. Sup Syn 1.1
NEO 1.3
Valvoline 1.5
In conclusion, we have very little to go on for ash content aside from the 2nd article mentioned formerly, and the one directly above. If we use the 2nd article as an accurate benchmark it shows an insanely low ash content for AMSOIL. AMSOIL is my choice, once I use up my Castrol GTX and Red-Line. I
If you had asked me 6 months ago, I would have said that Mobil 1 is the choice, they were the 1st, and everyone has been trying to catch up to them. That belief was based upon price value. I was aware of AMSOIL but believed the cost too high (maybe I was just getting raped from the distributor before ~8.00/qt). I had been told that they were the **** (AMSOIL), but decided I could live with Mobil1 for 2/3 -> 1/2 the price. Before that I was running Castrol GTX, and then Syntec for a while.
Trivia: In 1972, AMSOIL Inc. opened its doors as Amzoil Synthetic Lubricants. U.S. Air Force award winning jet fighter pilot AL "A.J." Amatuzio gained solid appreciation for the extra ordinary synthetic oils that protected the engines of the jets he flew. Amatuzio started Amsoil Inc., a revolutionary oil company and introduced the first API classified synthetic motor oil in the world.
Rotorbrain, you owe me a beer
Last edited by PVerdieck; 07-21-02 at 04:01 PM.
#25
fart on a friends head!!!
Originally posted by PVerdieck
Rotorbrain, you owe me a beer
Rotorbrain, you owe me a beer
paul