GT-C

iTrader: (2)

My 3rd gen has been stuck in a body shop for nearly a year and I'm about to go pick it up this weekend. Any advice as to what I might have to do to fire her up? What I should do when I get her home? I'm figuring the battery is dead and I'm going to change the oil ASAP. What about the fuel (going to be a problem being that it sat that long)? Coolant?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I would flush the coolant. As for the fuel, I wouldn't worry about it. Just don't drive the car hard on that tank of gas.

Take some nice long scenic cruises and burn that old tank of gas and then you should be fine.

JimmyJimboJet

just drive it to my house and i'll take care of things for ya

Far North RX-7

This seems to come up quite often. Fresh oil should have been put in at shutdown. Used oil contains acids (not good for long term storage) A far as the gas goes. In Alaska the bush pilots stash gas out in the sticks to use when they go hunting. It is just stored in 55 gal drums or 5 gal containers. I have used gas stored as long as 5 years. Never had a problem in a small plane, though 5 years is stretching it. I would just charge the battery, check fluids, and start it. Warm it up, change oil, and enjoy. Let us know how it works out. Should stay out of boost untill the gas is used up. You should be fine.

RonKMiller

Watch out everyone - the "experts" are on the loose....

Dood, you put 5 year old gas in a light plane and flew it?
Hmmm, I guess they do things different up there in the great white North........My guess is that Continental and Lycoming would have a problem with that. I have a problem with that. It's how angels are made..........

(I'm an A&P and CFI, and for you non-flyers that means an Airframe and Powerplant wrench and Certified Flight Instructor)

Octane rating starts to drop significantly after 30 days, and if I remember correctly from Mechanic's 101 that's what keeps your engine (hell, ANY engine) from going KABOOM from pre-detonation.

If there is any way you can drain the 1 year old gas do it. If not, mix in at least 50% high octane fresh gas and DO NOT BOOST until you have gone through the entire tank. New coolant is also a must - I would drain out the old, put in new, get it warm, and then re-do. Same with the oil. Don't forget the 14 mm bolt on the bottom of the block next to the oil rail on the passenger side, or you'll only get out about half the old coolant out. " Burp" the air out of the coolant completely over the next week - it takes that long.

You absolutely MUST put on a new fuel filter before starting it!!!

Make sure the battery has a FULL charge, or better yet buy a quality new battery (you'll need it anyway) and make sure it is fully charged, or you'll be buying a new $400 alternator as well. Oh, btw, you get what you pay for in batteries. Buy the best one you can afford, and clean the terminals completely before putting in the new one.

Pull the plug leads and crank it over a few times for a few seconds (as in 3 to 5). Re-attach the plug leads with a little dielectric grease in the boots. Don't be alarmed if it smokes for a few minutes after sitting that long, and don't let it idle. Go ahead and take a good 30 minute drive to get it completely warmed up before parking. It should not smoke at all now. And remember, no boosting until you have a NEW tank of gas.

You're good to go until your next oil change.

Far North RX-7

Ron,

I have over 15,000 hours in the air. Yes we do things differently up here. We use experence. 5 years old gas is definately out of the norm, but try walking home from the north slope. I have never heard of anybody having trouble with gas fresher than 3 years old. 3 years old is what I and most of the pilots use for a limit on "cached gas" Granted this is with a Lycoming 150 which is not a rotary engine as you know, and not as critical with preignition. I also was a CFI 20 years ago and have worked on my Super Cub since I bought it in 1974. Hard to find a good A&P up here. Just relating my experience. I also store my RX-7 6 monthes of the year with a full gas tank and fresh oil. Come spring I have not had a problem just firing it up and driving it as normal. 10 PSI boost after 20 min warm up. I would like to know why the coolant should be changed. How does this go bad. The coolant I use (Zerex) says it is good for 5years?100,000 miles.

rotorbrain

its good that we have an a&p in here. ron, i was wondering if avgas would be alright in a rotary engine. i know it has no lubricant in it. . . but does that matter that much? i figured the injectors might hate that fact. i am in army guard aviation so i could get to the fuel easily. ive talked to them, but they dont know rotaries. can the fuel injection handle no lube?

paul

RonKMiller

I HATE walking home also, and in 32 years of flying (knock on my wooden skull) I've never done it.

All I can say is 1 or 5 year old fuel, unless it is kept in a completely sealed container and in a temperature controlled environment would not be a fuel of choice for me. Especially in an airplane. Unless I was drunk and could not call a cab...which has happened on more than one occasion. Or a bush pilot Just bustin' your *****.

Due to exposure to iron and aluminum, coolant in a rotary breaks down into a caustic solution rapidly, and eats the coolant jacket. The O rings in the 13B were not meant to take the extreme heat of the rotary. Add 'em together and you get to rebuild pretty early on.
It is extremely important to change all fluids frequently for maximum service, the 13B is as dirty as 1970's two stroke motorcycle engines.

I am sure the Renesis will have teflon (there are 2 different types) or silicone encapsulated O rings, and advanced metallurgy.
Science marches on. (hopefully!)

100,000 mile coolant, like 100,000 mile spark plugs is pure marketing hype, ad nauseum.

BTW - I LOVE Cubs. I still remember my first orgasm at the age of 14 landing one in a 20 knot crosswind.
Sex is highly over rated compared to flying and taking a good ****.

Keep the shiney side up!

RonKMiller

Avgas has lead, which is a lubricant, of sorts.

Runnning it in a 13B? Well, the main problems would be the catalytic converter and 02 sensor, just off the top of my head.

Avgas is imcompatible with modern automobile EFI systems. You'll toast 'em. Too much lead. Also bad for little kid's nervous sytems - turns em' into retards like me.

Avgas is not any "better" than pump gas just because you can run it in an airplane engine, it's just formulated differently.

The rotary is perfectly capable of making massive amounts of hp on standard high octane pump gas. The only thing avgas could bring to the equation is higher octane, which is not neccessary. Octane is only the ability of the fuel to resist pre-ignition, pre-detonation or KABOOM! (whatever you want to call it) and it actually produces LESS power in most applications. (It has to do with flame front propagation and other nerdy stuff, but that's another thread entirely)

Avgas is a dinosaur when it comes to modern fuels, better left in the stone age, and the only reason it is still around is that most "modern" piston aircraft engines were designed in the 30's and 40's, produced in the 50's and 60's in great quantity and are still flying, and really have not changed much.

Don't use it.

Hope this helps.

Far North RX-7

Ron, Thanks for the info on the coolant that makes sense. Guess I will change coolant on a anual basis. I accept the 5yr/100,000 as fact. Hype makes things difficult. On the gas life. Yes it is accepted that it must be in an unopened container. A few years ago it came in tin 5 gal containers. Two tins to a wood box. The containers would be covered in rust but the gas inside was clean. It would spend half the year at an average of -50 F. That may help but gas does not freeze at that temp. Oil does though. I was worried that I was going to get in a flame war over that "hard to find a good A&P" statement. Now I see you are an old fart like me (63 here) I bet you agree. Heck it is even hard to find a good 7/11 clerk these days. Anyway thanks for the good info. My 7 may live another few years with present cooling seals.

Gary

RonKMiller

Damn, your older than dirt!

Yep, sealed and cold, that would make a huge difference
in the "quality" over time. I can see how it would still be potent that long. Hell, I hope I'm still potent in 5 years with the big 50 looming shortly. Oxidation is the culprit. You are right on the money storing your Rex with a full tank of gas and fresh oil. Those acids get real ugly just sitting around with nothing to do except chew on the innards.

Ever drive your Rex in the snow? It is probably the WORST car I have ever driven in the white stuff, but it sure makes up for it in the warm and dry.

Hmmm, maybe I could get a job as a 7-11 clerk one day, or maybe even a Wal Mart Greeter! I'd probably just drink all the beer in the cooler anyway. Have a good holiday.

cdk 4219

The shi% probably wont start on the old fuel, most rotaries wont. If it does keep foot out of throttle until draining or filling up with new gas. I had one that sat for 6 months and wouldnt start on the fuel, drained and filled with fresh off to the races. Good luck and to those fling with 5 year old fuel, stick to the boonies and dont try to fly over my house with that turpentine.