RE-Amemiya7

ok, since no one else has said anything about this, I will. Its not just about power and trackson that will get you into the 12's or 11's. weight is a HUGE factor. Even If you were to run 400hp and had and extra 500+ lbs of subs, TV's amps, etc crammed in the back, 12's out of the question.

My self and many others have been able to get into the 12's with intake, full exhaust, a mild tune and removing such things as spare tire, jack, pasanger seat, etc. That and some ADVAN semi-slicks is what worked for me. (weight reduction a a big factor in why you see posts above mine of people who have run 12's and even 11's with power in the 350 range)

The most important factor is still the driver. for expamle: if your reaction time is 1 sec on a .5 tree, you are already half a second behind and you havent even left the line yet. That can be the difference between 12.9 and 13.4

slo

iTrader: (1)

The timer starts counting when your car leaves the line, it has nothing do with how much time passes between the green light and your car leaving the line, that dictates who wins and looses in a head on race. You can have a 1 second rt or a 1 minute rt, doesn't effect the et what so ever.

prescription 7

iTrader: (5)

^ He's got a point

sleeper7

it depends on your altitude what hp gets you what time.. here in utah around a mile above sea level its a little different than in long beach... chip or ecu upgrade, 3 in. downpipe, midpipe, catback exhaust, upgrade ignition , bigger intercooler,bigger fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel controller, fuel reg, aluminum radiator, dual oil coolers, (if you already dont have them) change the diff/trans/engine oil, i recomend higher volume oil filter..(i think fram has one.. tg7313 i think.) replace your vacuum lines and when your putting the new ones on clamp them on..(zip ties work pretty good)
then once your there i would get a boost controller and tune your car.. i would stay within 10-15psi on stock internals/turbo.
doint all that should put you to low 12's or better. you dont need a clutch or new diff to get there.. but you will probably roast your stock clutch and snap your oem diff.
parts i recomend..
acpt carbon drive shaft
porting TB and upper and lower intake manifolds
aftermarket clutch (i have the act 6 puck)
hks twin power ignition
apex PFC
FMIC.. (i like greddy for these)
gotham has a good dual oil cooler set up
koyo or fluidline radiator

sleeper7

couldnt have said it better.. my first time i raced my car at the track i raced a srt4.. the kid who was driving it was my buddy.. i was really nervous and when i put my car on the line i put it in neutral.(out of habit) and i forgot to put it into gear. when the light turned i pushed on gas.. but went nowhere.. i felt dumb. but then i put it into first and took off..
my rt sucked..(5 sec.) but my 1/4 time was decent (13.2) stock with intake and full (no cats) 3 inch exhaust, and brand new plugs..( i put them in when i got to the track)
so ya.. i agree..

RE-Amemiya7

depends on the track and type of events. I used to run some early model races in my chevelle - I learned the hard way that when the ambers are off and the green light flashes the clock has started. maybe that was just the events i was in, but i suppose i have just become accustome to that. Dont think i have ever cared to notice when i was running my FD that it was any different.

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

I think you are reffering to bracket racing. The clock does not start but rather your reaction time is taken into account in determining the winner. Reaction time never plays a role in ones ET.

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

Why not? I don't like to run without a cat (the smell is to much) and I believe in reducing emissions.. not to mention we have emissions testing here.

I also want to ward off boost creep and the cat will help.

It was much cheaper to buy a catless midpipe and a high-flow cat (made for high temp applications) and have it welded then to buy a unit that already comes with a highflow cat in it.

Good info on this post.. Thanks guys.

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

So if I read correctly my next mods should be PFC and an IC?

All the supporting mods like rad and fluids have been done by the way.

When does one need to upgrade the fuel system? I gather from what I read when you dial up the boost past 12 psi?

PS, I am right at sea level which helps.

Stix37867

iTrader: (1)

Anything above 12psi is recommended to have bigger injectors. Fuel pump is a good idea anytime though.

3rd Gen Jeremy

I just made 324 with:

Intake,
DP,
MP,
Cat Back,
Radiator,
IC,
PFC,
850 primaries,
1600 secondaries with top feed rail,
Fuel Pressure Regulator,
Greddy Elbow,
Greddy Type RS BOV,
Walbro Fuel Pump,
Fuel Filter,
new spark plugs and wires NGK 9s all around,
Efini '99 spec turbos with ported wastegate,
Profec B Spec II set at 15 psi,
really strong engine
and most important of all.... Tuning by Steve Kan!!!

Even with that, I'm still gonna need some good launches to get to low 12s. I don't know if I believe high 11s at 325. I think that's stretching it.

My advice man, do the reliability mods first. Do 1 thing at a time and concentrate on building a bullet proof setup first then worry about your drag times. Another thing I learned the hard way, use quality silcone hoses and stay away from that Autozone Crap. Also you want to do the turbo control simplification if you're going to stay sequential.

Oh yeah, good luck passing emissions stock let alone once you get these mods. If you want to protect the environment, you should drive a Prius and not worry about running 12s.


Hope that helps,
Jeremy

Stix37867

iTrader: (1)

^i'm assuming that was with a dynapack?

Also, stock port or street port?

widebody2

Do you realize that 18s would make your car slower?

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

The car just passed emissions with flying colors (needed to be tested when I bought it. My Lightning which made 600hp and 700ft/lbs of trq passes like it was stock. My 4th Gen Camaro which had a 396 stroker motor and an ATI blower passed. I doubt I will have trouble getting the RX-7 to pass with my limited mods.

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

Yup, the reliability mods will be done for sure.

silverTRD

iTrader: (37)

LOL

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

Come on. It can't be that hard to pass with basically exhaust upgades (new cat still has the air-tube). Can it. LOL

Like I said the car has under 30k miles on it and I am starting with a good base since it passed easily a couple of motnhs ago. The pre cat is the only thing that wold be gone but that is only there for help with cold-start emissions anyway.

I'll let you guys know how it goes when the time comes.

Gorilla RE

iTrader: (1)

My boss' fd made 313rwhp at rotary performance and ran a 12.10@113 on 245/50/16 kumho street tires! most people find this hard to believe but thats because most people cant drive!
driver! driver! driver! period!
~J

3rd Gen Jeremy

Yes, how did you know?


That a street port. Hell I better make 350 easy with a streetport.

3rd Gen Jeremy

Good luck!! I wish you the best but I wouldn't bet on passing for very long especially if you want to build enough power to run 12s.

Stix37867

iTrader: (1)

It would have been really low if it was a dynojet. The dynapack reads about 10-15% low compared to the dynojet.

I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't.

3rd Gen Jeremy

So are you telling me that on a DynoJet I'm gonna read 360 -380? If so, that's a pretty big number. Especially for Sequential Twins.

By the way, I'm making boost at 2200 rpm so I'm gonna be able to get a good launch easy. I'll let you guys know what numbers I post on a DynaPack 324 hp car.

Jeremy

rynberg

NOT. A properly running car with an air pump can pass just fine.....I pass Cali emissions with PFC, streetport, and all bolt-ons (switching out midpipe to hi-flow cat). If someone is failing emissions, it's because their car is not running right, period.

NTIMD8

iTrader: (1)

My thoughts exactly.