Recipe for 12's?
 

I did a quick search but came up empty. What is the general concensus when it comes to what mods are required to run mid to upper 12's on street radials? If a boost controller is required what psi?

When I had my lightning for example the recipe for mid to upper 12's was air intake, 4 or 6 #pulley and chip.

Thanks, J

What are your mods right now????

I'd say exhaust, hi-flow cat, downpipe, intake, intercooler, radiator, fuel pump, standalone ecu, upgraded clutch, boost controller at 12psi, and all up to date maintenance. Should be around 325hp.

check my sign for mods... I ran 13.5 with Bald Tires. i mean bald on the wires.. thats how bad and no traction. with 18s on it.. new tires and no cat im sure mid 12's...

I just bought the car before winter with 28,000 miles on it. It is 100% stock. In my basement waiting to install I have....

3" Downpipe
3" Midpipe
3" high-flow cat to be welded into the midpipe
Cat back
K&N drop in filter

I also have gauges but obviously won't do anything for power (Boost, Wide band o2 and Fuel Pres.)

So far thats it.

FAQ question #18.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

Dave

Thank you sir. :icon_tup:

ALso thanks to the others who chimed in. :icon_tup:

Umm I just read it and it doesnt say anything about the mods needed,l just the power :squint: ..........

18) What mods do I need to make 12s? 11s? sub-11s?

12s: 300rwhp with drag radials or slick tires, skilled driver, and good conditions can go sub-13s.

11s: 350rwhp with slick tires, very skilled driver, and good conditions. More info here.

10s or lower: Get into 11s first, add slicks, single turbo, drivetrain upgrades, and a driver with outstanding launching ability. FDs with this configuration are generally not streetable.

I don't see a sig.

*Street Port *ACT clutch
*Down Pipe *High Flow Kat
*RB Dual Tip *PFC
*intake *HKS Bov
*Apexi Turbo Timer, A/R *AutoMeter boost Gauge.
*SS SMIC

17) What mods do I need to make 300hp? 400hp? 500hp?

Since stock power levels already push the limits of the car, begin with maintenance items: fuel filter, tranny and differential oil, spark plugs and wires, coolant change, injector cleaning, bleed brakes, replace fuel pulsation damper, coolant hoses, etc. Next, install reliability modifications (alternate list) to correct weaknesses in the factory design: all-aluminum radiator, downpipe, aluminum AST or AST elimination, vacuum hose job, boost gauge, coolant temp gauge, modify cooling fans by thermoswitch replacement or manual control, and others. Finally, it is time to add power mods. FDs respond to power modifications and tuning but can’t handle more than a couple bolt-on power mods until fuel, boost levels, and re-tuning are considered. This advice isn’t meant to slow down your progress, but to ensure you don’t destroy your car. It’s happened many times before, and with modified engines pushing the limits of the stock engine systems, the reliability mods become necessities. See this thread for further info.

i) 300HP can be achieved with some bolt-on mods and piggy-back ECU tuning. For example, Pettit Racing offers a +60hp package for under $1500. M2 Performance has a 290HP kit for $2000, and 315HP kit for $3500. 300hp already exceeds the stock ECU’s fuel maps, so the list includes a remapped ECU as well as intake, exhaust, and intercooler upgrades. Any similar set of quality bolt-on will yield similar performance. Any power beyond this point is difficult to pass emissions testing.

Ahhh I see... it is 18 in conjunction with 17. :rlaugh:

Thanks. :icon_tup:

lol you asking for it ha ha

jst save some money for a (PFC).. .. becarefull with boost creep.. thank God thats not a problem for me!!! knock knock lol.

where is orl? Orlando?

LOL, It's not my fault. He said 18, I read 18 and did not notice 17 had how to get to each power level. Honest mistake. :redface:

I think your right. Think I will get myself a PFC and a boost controller next.

Sorry, I wrote Orl because I am to lazy to write Orleans. It's a city in Ontario Canada.. It is basically Ottawa.

youre already in the 12's try not to break it./\

Why?

I would jst tune it after u get the PFC jst get it tune.... not cheaper than buying a boost controller but if you turn up the boost on a stock map its not safe.. ask any 1 here.. anything over 12 is not recomended.... plus you'll make more power with 10psi tund then to jst go and turn it up to 12 psi and run a chance of blowing it.. and like BARBAn said you're already in the 12's jst dont break it :).
and i forgot to mention on the list that you posted up i didn't see a IC. Get 1. forget the boost controller for now.. I personally dont hav 1, so not even worried about 1 now.. and I've been wating to crank it up to 14psi jst to see some damage... (how much power i can get) but not time yet... i need more fuel and more money lol...



oh and Save ur money and dont WELD the got damn Cat man, you gon have to replace the damn thing later .. jst put a flange on it ..... i got mine with a flange and for sum odd reason i jst gutted my cat 2 weeks ago, car spools up much faster ... anyways yeah dont WELD it.

are you kidding?......325 will put you in the 11's!

ot with street tires. And i doubt it would with drag tires for that matter.

Using this calculator, i get low 12's. That's with good driver and probably at LEAST a 2.00 60ft. My estimate for mid 12's is for easy mid 12's (i.e. not pushing it to 8k and 4k launch).

I put all that for reliability and convenience (less labor hours).

http://www.rx7.com/accel_calculator.html

A dp will get you in the high 12's. Kevin Wyum ran a 12.6 with just a crush pipe on the stock tires.

Do a search.

325 rwhp will get you into the high 11's.

A guy ran an 11.4 @ 120 plus on 362 rwhp on a summer Florida day.