ZenkaiRaceR

Ok before I get bitched at with the usual "use the search" I did and read a few posts. They didnt tell me what Im looking for because this is probably basic know how to you guys. Anyways my question is what gets rebuilt in a rotary when getting rebuilt? I know in a piston engine they make forged pistons, rods, and billet cranks. Are there beefier pucks, apex seals, and drive shafts for rotaries?

rynberg

I think you will get a wealth of info by simply reading these vendor sites:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/engnum3.htm

http://www.kdrotary.com/price_list.html (scroll down)

www.pineappleracing.com (site is temp down)

http://www.pettitracing.com/Frameset.html (under engines)

ZenkaiRaceR

Hmm I read the 3 that were working and it looks like all they do in the rebuilds is replace everything with new oem parts like the seals, gaskets, housings, rotors, and perform the eccentric shaft mod unless you want a port with it. One of the few non oem things were the apex seals. So basically a brand new stock 13B modified with 3mm apex seals and a street port would be good for high boost?

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Define "high boost." . I run ~18 psi on my BNRs (good for ~400 at the wheels) with the stock 2mm apex seals. Do a search under 3mm seals....in my opinion the benefits don't outweigh the costs for my purposes. If you frag a rotor milled to accept 3mm seals it makes the rebuild take that much longer and cost that much more. When you get a rebuild you can have your intake and exhaust ports opened up and polished, your coolant passages on the rotor housings opened up for improved cooling, and teflon coated coolant o-rings used as well. There are many schools of thought on what works and what doesn't. One of the most important parts of a rebuild is ensuring that parts (ie rotor and end housings, intermediate housing, eccentric shaft) are only reused if they are within certain tolerances. This includes such small pieces as corner and side seals--I've torn apart a motor and seen evidence of improper reuse of side seals which was leading to internal lubrication problems. Basically, go with a shop that you trust will do the job right the first time and will work on your 7 as if it was their own.

my 2 cents