To rebuild or not?
worst mistake i made was waiting for the engine to pop.
Rear + middle irons = TRASH , REar rotor = Trash , rear housing= TRASH!
60% of motor trash. HAd to buy a JDM one because it would of cost more to rebuild it.
Rebuilt it before it blows. You WILL save HUGE.
My last motor popped when i still had 85 psi of compression on the rotors. WHats the FSM says was right.
SO now. I comp check my engine every other month. SO far im still in the 100's so i feel safe.
Rear + middle irons = TRASH , REar rotor = Trash , rear housing= TRASH!
60% of motor trash. HAd to buy a JDM one because it would of cost more to rebuild it.
Rebuilt it before it blows. You WILL save HUGE.
My last motor popped when i still had 85 psi of compression on the rotors. WHats the FSM says was right.
SO now. I comp check my engine every other month. SO far im still in the 100's so i feel safe.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,804
Likes: 646
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Your logic is incomplete..... you'll save some time in the short run, but not in the long run.
It's all a question of mileage and wear. If the OP has an original engine (ie 15-17 years old) he's going to want to replace almost everything anway, to do it right.
You rebuild your old existing engine, you still have old irons, old stationary gears, old e-shaft, old bearings, old rotor housings, old oil pump, old turbos, etc etc.
I'm sure there's more to this story...... irons last a decent amount of time, unless you do something like run the car low on oil and spin a bearing.
Your logic is incomplete..... you'll save some time in the short run, but not in the long run.
It's all a question of mileage and wear. If the OP has an original engine (ie 15-17 years old) he's going to want to replace almost everything anway, to do it right.
You rebuild your old existing engine, you still have old irons, old stationary gears, old e-shaft, old bearings, old rotor housings, old oil pump, old turbos, etc etc.
Your logic is incomplete..... you'll save some time in the short run, but not in the long run.
It's all a question of mileage and wear. If the OP has an original engine (ie 15-17 years old) he's going to want to replace almost everything anway, to do it right.
You rebuild your old existing engine, you still have old irons, old stationary gears, old e-shaft, old bearings, old rotor housings, old oil pump, old turbos, etc etc.
The rear rotor chipped an apex seal and cmpresed it into the housing. As far an the irons go. I dont know what happened but they had LArge scratches on them. Way to deep to resuse without resurface. The bearings had plenty of life left in them. And the rear rotor apex seal groove was bent on the corner. ( like pried open)
I ended up using tthem as my practice porting irons
The buyer has all the info and can make an informed decision. There's a bigger world out there. Here's an example.
It's a good deal for guys that rebuild their own motors. Good FD internals are getting harder and harder to come by. Some will part that motor out and making a decent amount. Irons go for $150 each and his irons are probably fine. Rotors go for $300 a pair and if the motor is not blown, the rotors should be good. Housings go for $150 each for "decent" ones. His housing will most likely have flaking.
Short blocks sell fast. A guy that rebuilds his own motors can slap a set of ALS seals in that motor, let them wear in and he has a decent motor that you can pound some boost into.
Not everyone is in your situation so what may not appeal to you, will appeal to someone else.
Anthony
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