rebuild cost?
03-04-11, 07:10 PM
#1
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rebuild cost?
is there any significant differences between the requirements of rebuilding a 94 13b versus any earlier year 13b. a close froend of mine who is a reputable rotary mechanic locally is saying 3500 to rebuild my 94. seems like a **** ton of money since they can be bought for that or just a tick more...
03-04-11, 07:14 PM
#2
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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A new engine is almost $4500. Disadvantage is you are stuck with stock ports and all oem internals. As always, a lot depends on your application.
It's a lot of work to tear down an engine, properly clean it, inspect it for causes of failure, discard out-of-spec internals, prep it for the build, clearance all seals, and properly build it (not to mention portwork). You'd be amazed the number of 'professionally' built engines we tear down that didn't make it many miles that have completely worn oil control rings, loose side seals, out-of-spec endplay, sloppy portwork etc etc.
If your good friend is quoting you that price and it includes ALL new oem seals/springs/o-rings/gaskets/bearings, then it's not a horrible price--- if it includes the labor to R&R the engine from the car. Your post lacks a lot of information, so it's hard to give you a 100% correct answer.
It's a lot of work to tear down an engine, properly clean it, inspect it for causes of failure, discard out-of-spec internals, prep it for the build, clearance all seals, and properly build it (not to mention portwork). You'd be amazed the number of 'professionally' built engines we tear down that didn't make it many miles that have completely worn oil control rings, loose side seals, out-of-spec endplay, sloppy portwork etc etc.
If your good friend is quoting you that price and it includes ALL new oem seals/springs/o-rings/gaskets/bearings, then it's not a horrible price--- if it includes the labor to R&R the engine from the car. Your post lacks a lot of information, so it's hard to give you a 100% correct answer.
03-04-11, 07:25 PM
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im assuming it is remove and replace but it includes the cosumabes and a street port...not to stereotype...but he is fro PR and ive seen his work go down the track....recently built a PP 13b on methanol that made 254hp N/A. that seems pretty good but ive always built piston motor myself
03-05-11, 10:16 AM
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Ray is selling NEW engines for $3800. Stock ports, yes, but every part is new OEM. If your rotor housings and/or rotors are bad, it's an alternative worth consideration imo. Most early failures of these engines are due to the set-up being wrong or re-using marginal parts. I recently took my motor apart because of a (very slightly) leaking coolant seal and found the rotor housings and rotors to be perfect, so I'll just get the irons checked out and put her back together with new seals, gaskets, and bearings - all depends on the level of wear/damage to the parts. Oh, and I'm using studs this time, not those stupid tension bolts.
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03-05-11, 06:01 PM
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I'm telling you man. I'm in NC and they got my motor in two days once it was picked up. Chris had it disassembled and pictures online to show the damage the next day. Even in my case, needing a new motor completely, they are very reasonable. Freight charges suck, but it's a reputable shop so to me, worth every penny.
03-05-11, 07:00 PM
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RX-7 World (Kings Mtn, NC) is alot closer, they've been building these engines at least 10 years and the rates are very reasonable - it's all about attention to detail
03-05-11, 09:25 PM
#15
rotaryrebuildstore.com is a great alternative.
They offer new rotor housings and a street port SHIPPED for 3600. And cheaper if you want stock ports/used rotor housings etc.
I think the creator of that site is on this forum too but i forget who it is.
Thats probably something i would do instead of taking out my engine and having it shipped someplace to do my rebuild.
They offer new rotor housings and a street port SHIPPED for 3600. And cheaper if you want stock ports/used rotor housings etc.
I think the creator of that site is on this forum too but i forget who it is.
Thats probably something i would do instead of taking out my engine and having it shipped someplace to do my rebuild.
03-05-11, 11:35 PM
#16
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^^More outdated info 
I talk to David Jerome regularly and he is pretty much out of the engine porting/building game. He's been sending his work to a couple of different shops, one of which is mine.
I talk to David Jerome regularly and he is pretty much out of the engine porting/building game. He's been sending his work to a couple of different shops, one of which is mine.
03-06-11, 09:05 AM
#18
He advertises his website and pricing in his sig everytime he posts. Maybe he sends you work when he's swamped, so i highly doubt he's out of the game. Otherwise he needs to revise his website/sig.
It was djseven to the other people who read this thread, i just checked.
03-06-11, 09:52 AM
#19
Personally, there are two shops I would ship a motor to before I considered shipping it to any other.
1) IRP
2) CPR
I believe there are other good engine builders out there including some of the ones metioned above. BUT, if it were me, these two shops seem to show some of the best attention to detail as well as really communicating with the owner to build a motor perfect for the intended use. It is more of a complete build as opposed to just an engine build.
1) IRP
2) CPR
I believe there are other good engine builders out there including some of the ones metioned above. BUT, if it were me, these two shops seem to show some of the best attention to detail as well as really communicating with the owner to build a motor perfect for the intended use. It is more of a complete build as opposed to just an engine build.
03-06-11, 10:17 AM
#20
If you don't have money for a proper rebuild you can go the easier route although risky, buy a jspec engine. Although these motor can be bough for a little as $1200 they can ether last some time or become a ticking time bomb.
I recently bought my self one of these JPAN engines (i was too impatient to rebuild) and the first thing i did was strip it down the the bare block. Revised the rotor housing for visual damages and sprayed the rotors and seals with PB blaster to clean off some carbon buildup and help lubricate seals. Took compression after I installed motor so far so good 100PSI. Anyway this just an option but its best to do it right and rebuild professionally..
I recently bought my self one of these JPAN engines (i was too impatient to rebuild) and the first thing i did was strip it down the the bare block. Revised the rotor housing for visual damages and sprayed the rotors and seals with PB blaster to clean off some carbon buildup and help lubricate seals. Took compression after I installed motor so far so good 100PSI. Anyway this just an option but its best to do it right and rebuild professionally..
03-06-11, 11:21 AM
#21
Personally, there are two shops I would ship a motor to before I considered shipping it to any other.
1) IRP
2) CPR
I believe there are other good engine builders out there including some of the ones metioned above. BUT, if it were me, these two shops seem to show some of the best attention to detail as well as really communicating with the owner to build a motor perfect for the intended use. It is more of a complete build as opposed to just an engine build.
1) IRP
2) CPR
I believe there are other good engine builders out there including some of the ones metioned above. BUT, if it were me, these two shops seem to show some of the best attention to detail as well as really communicating with the owner to build a motor perfect for the intended use. It is more of a complete build as opposed to just an engine build.
And some people want to just BUY an engine instead of taking out your blown engine, sending it for rebuild, waiting for them to complete the rebuild (because you have to wait in line), then waiting for them to ship it back to you, then reinstalling it.
Because the person i mentioned, thats what i would do is just buy a fresh rebuilt engine outright, then do the swap, then rebuild the blown engine. Kinda like having a backup.
So there is little to no downtime. I think everyone should have 2 engines anyway. One in the car and one ready to go into the car when the current one goes lol.
03-06-11, 03:21 PM
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And at your power levels, those 'stupid tension bolts' are 100% fine.
03-06-11, 05:55 PM
#23
I still build but not currently taking work. The pricing on my site is outdated unfortunately. That's what happens when a buddy builds your site. The only price that is grossly outdated is the new housing builds. I used to pay $440.00 a piece for new housings, now they are around $750.0 a piece.
If the price includes pull and install then that isn't bad at all. A typical pull, rebuild and re-install will easily run $3k by the time you replace damaged internals. That isn't considering new coolant lines/hoses, fuel lines, FPD and all the other stuff
That is due to be replaced. And that price of $3K is in line with the more affordable shops. Pretty much every part for these cars had risen in price due to the current value of the dollar to the yen.
Moving forward I am only taking customers who want to spend money todo things right. The car is 20 years old at this point and usually needs far more attention than customers anticipate.
If the price includes pull and install then that isn't bad at all. A typical pull, rebuild and re-install will easily run $3k by the time you replace damaged internals. That isn't considering new coolant lines/hoses, fuel lines, FPD and all the other stuff
That is due to be replaced. And that price of $3K is in line with the more affordable shops. Pretty much every part for these cars had risen in price due to the current value of the dollar to the yen.
Moving forward I am only taking customers who want to spend money todo things right. The car is 20 years old at this point and usually needs far more attention than customers anticipate.
Last edited by djseven; 03-06-11 at 05:58 PM.
03-06-11, 06:01 PM
#24
That's the price he just quoted me a couple weeks ago, Rich, so he must have just changed it
Highly debatable. There was evidence of movement at tear down (chatter marks near the bolt holes). The stock tension bolts stretch too much, let's face it, they're cheap. I'm going with studs this time.
Highly debatable. There was evidence of movement at tear down (chatter marks near the bolt holes). The stock tension bolts stretch too much, let's face it, they're cheap. I'm going with studs this time.
03-06-11, 07:09 PM
#25
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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I still build but not currently taking work. The pricing on my site is outdated unfortunately. That's what happens when a buddy builds your site. The only price that is grossly outdated is the new housing builds. I used to pay $440.00 a piece for new housings, now they are around $750.0 a piece.
If the price includes pull and install then that isn't bad at all. A typical pull, rebuild and re-install will easily run $3k by the time you replace damaged internals. That isn't considering new coolant lines/hoses, fuel lines, FPD and all the other stuff
That is due to be replaced. And that price of $3K is in line with the more affordable shops. Pretty much every part for these cars had risen in price due to the current value of the dollar to the yen.
Moving forward I am only taking customers who want to spend money todo things right. The car is 20 years old at this point and usually needs far more attention than customers anticipate.
If the price includes pull and install then that isn't bad at all. A typical pull, rebuild and re-install will easily run $3k by the time you replace damaged internals. That isn't considering new coolant lines/hoses, fuel lines, FPD and all the other stuff
That is due to be replaced. And that price of $3K is in line with the more affordable shops. Pretty much every part for these cars had risen in price due to the current value of the dollar to the yen.
Moving forward I am only taking customers who want to spend money todo things right. The car is 20 years old at this point and usually needs far more attention than customers anticipate.
