Rags

Ok after a few months the car finally got worked on! Rear rotor was fine, but front rotor has crap compression. Still don't know what happened! I only drove the car 3 blocks and she never started up again once I parked! It only had 1 year and 20,000 miles on the rebuild! Oh well. Time to ditch the twins!

So here's what I'm planning. Rebuilding the motor with RA Super Seals. Along with that my GT45, 1000cc primaries, 2000cc secondarys, 50mm wastegate, new turbo manifold, and downpipe. My big ol FMIC is taking to much air from the radiator as well, so I'm switching back to SMIC. I have a huge radiator and IC. I already have all the parts except for the apex seals. I chose those for the strength they give.

The engine is bridgeported. Along with that GT45 i'm looking to see 600hp on low boost. Is that unreasonable? I am NOT looking to run race gas. I will run alcohol before I run race gas. I'm from a small town and we don't have any race gas near by. Previous owner told me that the transmission was "built" and so far I haven't had a single problem with it. He did do a manual swap from it being an auto while he had the car. The diff isn't stock either, i'm not sure what brand it is, but it is an LSD. Turbine A/R on mine is 1.09, and its a 3'' straight pipe exhaust. So with all that in mind, how is that turbo going to spool with a Bridgeport?

Anybody have any recommendations on Apex seals or anything I should change up? No, i'm not getting a different turbo. Maybe later, not right meow. Alcohol injection brands I should look for? I know its out there on search, i'm just asking for opinions as I already have most of my parts together. Anything I missed that I will need or is a good idea to have for this build? My tuner is a boss so that's not a problem.

Future: Suspension is all stock and I don't have any parts. That leaves me open to choose whatever! I'm not going to do coil overs just yet. The Tein S springs, Bilstein HD struts, with the rx7store front and rear swaybars is what i'm looking at getting. My rx8 can hit corners at double +10 the recommended speed without trouble. No sliding, no roll, no problems. The rx7 on the other hand has like a foot of body roll, then starts sliding at WAY slower speeds. So what i'm looking for in the suspension is a drastic amount less of body roll but without knocking my teeth out if I hit a bump. I know our ride is stiff, but I hate loosing teeth. How do the rx7store slotted rotors do? Any recommendations on a different setup or is this good for what I want? As stated earlier, no coil overs for meow.

I have the 9 pound RB flywheel on my rx8, and I love it. BUT.... I see that a light flywheel combined with a Bridgeport, my spec stage 3 clutch, and big turbo is hard to drive? Its not a DD but I still street drive it a lot. Is a lightweight flywheel a bad idea?

After that's all done I have a vader kit that I am going to install. I already fitted the front bumper and side skirts, but they are not currently on the car. The rear diffuser and spoiler have to be fitted next. I am going to paint the car from silver to a nice metallic emerald green! I'm not sure if i'm going to like the looks of the kit, so i'm installing it prior to painting to see if I like the looks ON the car. If I don't like it, then i'll put the stock body back on with the rear diffuser and just a spoiler. I need to find a RE Amemiya AD 9 hood. Both outside door handles are busted off. I have the black aluminum ones that need installed and then outside will be almost how I want. Needs new rims... I'm pretty knowledgeable about engines and cars, but I know nothing about rims, tires, offsets, fender rolling, spacers. NONE of that stuff. I've read the sticky on that info, and I still don't understand I guess, I would need to physically see it all in front of me to get it.

So I guess I have a lot of work to do on the car still, but I have a lot of the parts already, and the ones I do not have are thankfully the cheap ones! Its nice getting the expensive ones out of the way first!

To make it easy the questions are:

1. How fast will a Bridgeport spool a gt45 with 1.09 A/R and where is the powerband going to sit? I don't mind revving

2. Any recommendations on the setup I have that I am installing?

3. How is the suspension setup I chose? Is there a better setup for what I want that's not coilovers?

4. Would a lightweight flywheel be terrible to drive with this setup?

5. Anything I am missing?

Thanks for your help fellah's! Sorry its a long post, but the car is turning into what I want it to be!

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Congratulations... You're building an FD that'll have a 1krpm (maybe 2krpm) powerband...

If your tuner is such a boss you should really be asking him these things

dguy

iTrader: (8)

I actually think he's going to have 3k+ to work with. By 5000 a GT45 should be spooled. I do however think he's going to be hamstrung by a 3" exhaust on such a setup.

Also, yes, your tuner should be the one answering these questions.

Rags

Go **** somewhere else dude. Ask questions and there is always a troll who has to talk ****. Go join the STI owners man. They act just like you do. You'll get along great!

Thanks for your input dguy.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Running that large of a turbo at low boost is not a good idea. All it will do is add a ton of lag. If you aren't shooting for north of 600rwhp, don't go any bigger than a 67mm compressor inducer.

cptpain

iTrader: (1)

Unless you like your power to start at 5500rpm and last for only 2500rpm and have ZERO power below that..... you're gonna have a bad time.


What does your fuel system look like? Pump? Injectors? ECU?

You're missing a lot of stuff that needs to go along with running such a massive turbo.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Pull dyno sheets of HBP's with big *** turbos before you go all rage face breh.. you're going to have less of a curve, and more of an incline with that setup Personal opinion is that what you've proposed is great for two things, but not so great for one.. its great for a dedicated drag car and/or a dyno queen.. not so great for being a fun street car.

But its your car so do what you want just don't get pissy later because of how much the cars character was changed.

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

Sounds like to much turbo to me... but that has been covered.

Also why go back to a SMIC? V-Mount would be the way to go with this build.

Lastly have you considered E85?

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

Good advise^^

Rags

Cptpain I have 1000cc primary, and 2000cc secondary Injectors along with dual 255 walbro fuel pumps and a PFC. And sorry guys I didn't mean to say SMIC, it is VMIC. The intercooler has already been switched from FMIC to VMIC since I posted this.

Fendamonky sorry I got all worked up, wasn't meaning to jump down your throat. We are all here to help each other eh?

Turblown low boost is going to be 600, im not quite sure how high i'm going to take it on high boost yet. And thanks for the tip on the turbo size I can always switch it up later, just going to try this one out for now. My twin system that was in the car when I bought it was HORRIBLE and I was seeing 14 psi at around 4700 rpms. Rear turbo was cracked and all the compressor blades were mushrooming on the tips of both turbos. Combined with both shafts had all kinds of play in and out and up and down. I had no idea they were in such bad shape till they started smoking and I took them off, hence i'm going single turbo. I've only had the car for 20k miles, and it was my dd for a while, though not anymore.

04g35s I have not looked into e85 at all. Though i'll do some research on it and see what its about.

Thanks everybody on the help!

lOOkatme

iTrader: (19)

Who are you having tune the car?

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Rags, assuming everything else on the car is functioning properly, that PFC is likely to be a bottleneck for your goals. You'd have a much better shot at keeping the car running if you thought about working a more modern ecu into your build list. (IMO, the PFC is best when running twins and/or under 400whp, beyond that I wouldn't personally trust it.) Just some food for thought.

Rags

Ok! So a full standalone ecu then? And emphasis motorsports is doing the tune.

Rags

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Rags

Its coming together there ^

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

The PFC is a full standalone ecu, its just a 20+year old ecu that was developed when the vast majority of users were running twins and keeping in the lower whp range. Don't get me wrong, its good for what its good for, but I wouldn't call it reliable for your goals. Modern options like Adaptronic, Haltech (Plat Sport series), Syvecs, AEM, etc., etc., would be much better able to handle your goals.

But... at the end it boils down to your tuner, if your tuner can't use the ECU then its a waste. I've never heard of Emphasis... are they a rotary specific shop?

jetlude

iTrader: (9)

Rags, the GT45 you refer to, is at a Garrett gt45 or another version? The turbo pictured looks fishy.

Rags

There not rotary specific, but have been doing rotarys for a while, and are good at it. The turbo in there is not the the garrett turbo, its the turbo Volvo Uses. I know of quite a few rx7 they've done along with boosting rx8s, porting, and tuning.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

How long is "a while"? I'm being critical because the rotary community is pretty small, and quality shops tend to get their name around. How long have those rx7's they've tuned run for? Were they running the same power you're hoping for? I'm not even going to get into longevity of turboing an RX-8, as that's a doomed mission from the start

There is a big difference between keeping a 400whp FD and a 500whp FD on the road, just as there is a big difference between building a 500whp FD and a 600whp FD. The differences between a reliable 400whp and a reliable 600whp are MASSIVE!!

You're trying to jump from essentially a stock (or near-stock) setup to the "big leagues" in a single step when your car is, admittedly, not up to par. My sincere advice would be to dial it back a couple notches and work on putting together a reliable, fun, street car with *quality* parts first. THEN swing for the fence...

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

That turbo is not the equivalent size of a Garrett GT45. Its impossible to fit a t6 frame turbo down there(even t4 flanges are still t6 frame).

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

I was kinda thinking that as well, but I'm not as familiar with the physical dimensions of all the different turbo sizes.

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

That turbo has a 4 inch inlet, and antisurge housing. Impossible on a gt45 compressor wheel. Its just too big !

04G35S

iTrader: (10)

You are going to want to use rubber isolators on those intercooler brackets where they bolt to the core support. When I bought my car it had a similar setup and both brackets were broken off.

Rags

I can measure the turbo to see exactly what size they are. Then we'll know for sure!

Thanks for the tip on the insulaters!!

Rags

And so if the garrett gt45 won't fit because its too big, and this turbo does fit, its safe to say its smaller then I believed?