Just a quick question. I've searched but cant seem to find the answer. Im replacing my rear stationary gear but unsure if I can use one from another gen or not. Anybody with this info or experience in this area, please let me know. Also, anyone ever do any work with Goopy Performance. Im considering sending them some work so Im curious about turnaround time and reliability. Thank guys!!

 

I'm not sure on gen to gen, I know that you can use FD gears with an RX-8 eshaft so long as the bearings match.

I would say make sure the bearings in the gears match the eshaft being used.

Why are you getting rid of the current stat gear?

 

why do you want to change from oe stationary gears form your motor?

 

Im rebuilding my spun rotor bearing situation. I dont want to change, im just looking for a less expensive alternative than $500 from Atkins

 

you can generally find them used for much cheaper . Look on the classified section .also I believe they are interchangable , But you MAY have to change the whole rotating assembly crank shaft / rotors , bearings . I'm NOT sure on that so please dont quote me . But i'd honestly just go with third gen ones to be safe , also like I said plenty of used ones , stationary gears dont really go bad . unless you spin a bearing .

 

Thats exactly what happened, Lost my oil and spun a rotor bearing but luckly in my driveway so only the rotor bearings, eshaft, and stationary gear are on the replace list. Thanks guys for the advise. I was pretty sure that at least the fc gear was the same but wasnt 100% on that.

 

the sort answer, buy REW gears. you may have to replace a bearing, but the stat gears don't go bad.

the 74-88 gears are non hardened, and are not setup to take the multi hole REW bearing.

the 89-91 gears are hardened, but again they aren't setup to take the FD bearing

the Rx8 gears are hardened, and use the FD bearing, but mazda moved the o ring, and the oil galley needs to be checked too

so in short, buy the correct part.

 

both my stationar bearing went, i got the racing beat modified stationary gears, they are a lot cheaper

 

Why not just have new bearings pressed into your gears? Bearings are like $40 from Malloy and most shops can/will press them in for you.

I spun my front rotor bearing pretty bad and it chewed up the front stat bearing/blued the gear enough that I don't want to re-use it... But that doesn't mean that you NEED to replace all the gears..

2x new rotor bearings, 1x main bearing, 1x front (rx-8) Stat Gear, and 1x (rx-8) E-Shaft cost me like $414.... That's pretty much enough to revive your whole rotating assembly.

 

The teeth on the rear gear are shot. Not all but enough! I've considered a few different ways to minimize the rebuild cost and speed up the rebuild but thats def one thing that I'm terrified of reusing.

 

^^^Reminds me of some i got in an engine from japan, and this confirms our theory that oil starvation was the cause.

 

Always do the cost/benefit analysis for refurbishing parts. If you have a balanced rotating its really worth putting the money into getting them fixed. There are a couple good reputable companies that can take care of this. Otherwise it's very easy to find good to great condition used parts online.

 

Those gear teeth look BAD! How long were you idling for?!?!

I accidentally killed an engine by running dry on the highway, spun a bearing literally 1/2" out of a rotor, then drove it a mile down the road before getting off on an exit and having it towed home... my gear teeth in the front (where the damage was focused) weren't even damaged in the slightest, I'm just replacing the gear because of the heat it saw.

Are you sure that wasn't previously damaged?

 

Replace that stationary gear with a good used fd gear and press in a new bearing. You can find them pretty cheap. I have about 10 spares laying around if you need one. I can sell you one with a bearing already pressed in.

 

I got one for sale here

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-sale-1064954/

Eric

 

It happened in my driveway at my first start of the day. Heard it knocking and thought something got entangled in the belts at first. so it idled for a few moments while i popped the hood and checked but not very long. I think it was an oil starvation issue but doing the OMP Adapter thing now so hopefully, this wont happen ever again!!!

 

****!!!! bad new guys and i need your help. I know, I know. Search for the answer but there is so much info out there that reading it all hurts my head. Simple yes or no if you could help me out please. My rotor that was damaged is irrepariable as per freelance motorsports; so now I need either a single turbo s5 rotor, or a pair of rotors. Im assuming I cant use the non turbo s5's in my fd?? Found a pair on Ebay for about $300 but not sure I should purschase. UGH!! this project is gonna kill me. Help me guys, please!

 

this is simple, buy the parts that fit your car. you need an FD engine rotor, or a pair.

 

You don't want to mix and match rotor types. If you've got an S5 turbo rotor in there already then you should get another S5 turbo rotor with a matching or border weight code.

If you change rotor type (turbo to N/A, or from one series to another) then you also need to change the front and rear counterweights to maintain balance.

Did you have a matching/balanced rotating assembly to begin with? I honestly have a hard time swallowing that you chipped the **** out of your bearing from idling, when I ran dry at 70mph+ on the highway, then drove another mile before getting it towed home, yet I didn't damage the teeth in mine at all.

I'm not saying you're wrong, I just want to make sure you're diagnosing the cause correctly so it doesn't happen again.

 

well thats what im trying to figure out. is an s5 rotor an s5, or is there a difference between a turbo s5 and a non turbo s5. Im trying to get the right parts and NOT blow my budget. if it isnt the same, then I will find the correct part. I did some searching and i was unsure about it based on some of the things i read.

 

I drove the car home with no noise or detectable issues. The next morning, i started it up and heard loud banging and knocking!! I was indeed in my driveway. I had notice oil leaking down the side of the block prior to the breakdown but didnt understand how big of an issue it was. But thats water under the bridge now, the damage is done so NOW, it a lesson learned at my expense and only about trying to get my baby back on the road. I appreciate all of you and your input. as far as the assembly being balanced or not, id have to say probably not. I rebuilt it the first time due to coolant seal malfunction and didnt have anything balanced. Didnt know I should have.

 

s5 turbo and s5 na are different.

 

gotcha!! Thanks. the search continues!!!

 

Looking for a machinist in the NE that can cut side seals out. Got a few stuck and dont want to damage the rotor!! HELP ME OUT GUYS, PLEASE!!!! RUNNING OUT OF TIME!!!!

 

How did you manage that?

You know that Speed1 is in Lenhartsville, PA about 40min-1hour east of Harrisburg, the would likely be able to help you out, and/or sell you a replacement rotor for a reasonable price..