jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

well, i did a stupid thing and bought an autozone thermostat to replace the unknown mileage one in the ole FD... so, just for ***** and giggles, i decided to test out the thermostat...

on the bottom of the thermostat, it says 180*F "great" i think, a nice cool thermostat! so i put it in boiling water with a cooking thermometer and what do i see? it doesnt fully open til 215*F!!! after doing the test a few more times, it looks like the thermostat starts to open at about 205-206 and finally is totally open between 215 and 217*F!!!

dont buy an autozone thermostat.

racerx7

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the heads up. That is good to know.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

Yep OEM is your best bet on this one.

riptor

****......well ive had mine for 5000 miles and it stoped my problems i was having...to begin with..but it is the middleof winter..well ill get a new one when i get back off cruise w/my new rad...thanx for the heads up tho..

GUITARJUNKIE28

was it a stant?

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

duralast i believe is the brand

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Years ago, I did the same for my FC. I had pretty much the same experience with the stant. The stant that I got also did not have the Jigglin pin, not sure if it was the same on for the FD or not, but I now stick to OEM for most replacement parts such as this.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

yes this thermostat does not have the jiggle flow-through pin

riptor

what is said jiggle pin for..?

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i believe its there to let a small amount of coolant flow through the thermostat while it is closed.

dradon03

iTrader: (2)

So many thermostat options available why go with a cheap one you got FC, Miata, Sard etc etc.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

I believe it also allows any trapped air on the engine side of the thermostat to be evacuated. This is just a guess though , as the pin location is to be as far to the top as you can get it.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I would only use a parts store thermostat as a VERY temporary fix. Not only do they run hotter, but I've seen them fail on FC's in a month or two. Worst thing when it fails is you discount the thermostat since you "just changed it" .

OEM all the way.

Dale

DGblk93

So I'm digging this up why?
I just got a new OEM thermostat from Ray Crowe - sent it next day and gave a great price.

I have never done this but the shop manual seems to describe the removal as just pulling it out of its place. I just don't want to mess anything up so - is it that simple? Just pry out the old one and pop in the new thermostat with a new gasket?
Thanks
Dave

impactwrench

Yes

seanfd3s

just dont run one

Gadd

The problem I have seen with the "autozone, Kragen, Pepboys, plugin your local autoparts store" is the that they do not have the plunger on the back of the thermostat to plug the bypass in the thermostat housing when it is open. The OEM stat. starts to open at 180 and is not fully open till 200.

GUITARJUNKIE28

i've seen them last for years too. and them running "hotter" is a load. each thermostat has a heat range. make sure you get the correct one for your application.

luey02

iTrader: (1)

Do not install any thermostat without the tiny pin/hole. The coolant will not circulate since your trapping all the air right behind it in the block and the thermostat will not open that way. Also pick up an o-ring with the new thermostat, since the old one will crack when you pry it out.