I just installed my Autometer boost gauge in a RE Amemiya column pod. I've asked many questions of the forum, so to do my part to help others I took a boat load of pictures outlining how I installed the gauge. Next week I will upload the full size pictures to a different server if anyone is interested. I can also outline exactly what I did. The link to the pictures is

http://members18.clubphoto.com/kara6...ner-73fe.phtml

I'm in Boulder Colorado, more than a mile up, and ran a pattern of 9-7-9, which if the gauge was calibrated at sea level would be perfect! I'm running 12in Hg at idle as well(my idle is at 1500rpm..next up is replacing the ICS). Let me know what you all think!

 

no feedback?

 

NICE HOW MUCH FOR THE COLUMN? I WANT TO GET ONE TOO. BUT I DONT KNOW WHAT GAUGE TO PUT IN THERE. RIGHT NOW I HAVE A GREDDY 60MM BOOST AND WATER WITH WARNING.

 

Got it from rx7.com 250 including autometer gauge. The RE pod wasn't made to fit the autometer gauge so i had to take a dremel to it to make it fit, that is the first picture. I don't have experience with the pettit column mount, but I think if I had to do it again that is what I'd go with. The Pettit pod is 170 including autometer gauge.

 

great job man, how'd you get your sport comp polished like that?

any hints? how-to on that?

 

The gauge came like that, the model that rotary performance sells. It is autometer model 2401 and is on their website.

 

I hate the stock steering column cover and now you just added to it! I can't stand how the steering wheel and the black cover behind it are both in the way! Oh well at least you like it. I would go crazy with anything covering the view of any part of the tac any more than stock

thanks for the write up though. Looks like a pain in the ***...I never want to take off my interior pieces again.

 

It doesn't bother me as it blocks none of the tachs movement. I can see 0-9000 rpm. But as for difficulty, it was actually pretty easy once I did all the reasearch and figured out how to do it. That is why I posted the pics and am working on a how-to so other people won't have to do the research and figure out things like how to go through the steering column boot, or how to extend the hose that came with the meter.

 

I've got an SPI boost gauge in the RE pod. I had to shave down the back corners of the gauge housing (cup) and use a few 2" o-rings to take up the space that it sticks out from the RE housing. Oh, that and hack up the plastic that the back of the gauge secures to with the mounting studs in back. In the end it looks and works great, but it is expensive and took some work to get it in there. If I did it again, I would probably try a more shallow gauge so it is easier to fit in there, but I really like the stock looks of the SPI gauge.

I wanted to get all my gauges off the a-pillar, so I moved the boost gauge to the column mount and moved one SPA (totally different than SPI) gauge into the dash with another new SPA gauge to replace the stock oil pressure and water temp gauges. I don't have it all mounted in the car yet, but I think it will turn out nice. I'll post pics when it is done.

The only thing the RE pod convers is the cruise control light. You can still see the entire tach movement range, and it is easier to look at the boost gauge than it was on the a-pillar. It is at a different depth than the rest of the dash, though (obviously) so you do have to change your focus to read it.

-Max

 

Yeah, I don't really recommend the RE pod with anything but the RE gauge. My autometer gauge was a bit too deep for the pod and I couldn't screw down the pack because the pod was too narrow.

 

Nice job. I agree that the column mounted gauge does not block the tach.

By the way, the boost gauge was probably not "calibrated" anywhere. They work by giving a difference in pressure between the intake manifold and local atmospheric pressure; i.e., if it says 9psi, that's 9psi above your local atmospheric pressure, not 9psi above see level atmospheric pressure. There is a thread about this somewhere that I started when I was trying to figure out why I didn't get the right boost pattern. If you want 10psi, its pretty easy to acheive with the home depot boost controller. Your boost pattern seems pretty good though; I've talked to other people that, like me, have had a completely screwed up pattern at altitude.

Anyway, thanks for the info, and don't forget to let me know when transition occurs.

 

There are two ways to measure gauge pressure. I don't know how typical boost gauges work though some I'm just saying what I do know. The first way is to use, as you stated, measure between local and atmospheric with a pressure transducter. The second is to use a typical pressure gauge and calibrate atmospheric to be zero. The second option is the easiest and cheapest but as I said I have no idea how autometer builds the gauges or the industry standard. The first option is more exact and is what your want for the ECU sensors.

 

Hey Max, I have some spacer rings left over from my gauge pod GB if you want one. They are 9/16" deep right now but could be made a little smaller. They are aircraft aluminum. They are also 2-3/8" outside diameter.

Regards,
Frank